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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Question How do I jumpstart my Intrepid?

OK, this may sound like a total newbie question, but I've never done this before... so I want to make sure I have the proper instructions because I've heard different instructions from several "knowledgeable" people.

My biggest concern is that the instructions that came with my jumper cables say "DO NOT attach to the negative terminal of the dead battery" but rather to somewhere on the engine body.

However, my Trep has bolt that says "negative connection" that looks like just another bolt in the engine, but I have a feeling that it is connected to the negative terminal of my battery. Should I not use that to connect to???

Also, the cables I bought have copper clips covered by a plastic sheath (where you grip it), but my hand could easily touch the copper ends that are exposed.... if I accidentally touch it, will I get zapped???
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:28 PM
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Negative to negative, positive to positive. Yes, you will get zapped if you touch it...

Touch them together and watch the sparks...that will be your hand :-P
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:30 PM
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*Just connect them before you start the other car, but still, try not to touch the copper OR battery terminals.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:39 PM
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Even if you get zapped there is not a life threatening mount (12V to your fingers will scare you but not kill you)

I always do pos to pos neg from jumper car to engine block (usually AC or alt bracket bolt ) on car being jumped
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
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Even if you get zapped there is not a life threatening mount (12V to your fingers will scare you but not kill you)

I always do pos to pos neg from jumper car to engine block (usually AC or alt bracket bolt ) on car being jumped
what he said...the dead battery should be hooked up positive only
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 06:35 PM
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The reason is that the last connection you make will cause a spark. Ya don't want a spark near your battery because batteries give off hydrogen gas. So make sure the LAST connection you make is neg jump cable to the block.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 06:47 PM
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I've always done pos to pos, neg to neg. No problems yet. Getting zapped isn't to bad, you'll smile after you jump trust me! I got zapped by the coil wire a few weeks ago...
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 02:28 AM
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Damn...you sure you been a member here since 2001???
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 03:38 AM
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Damn...you sure you been a member here since 2001???
we all have to learn how to jump start a car at some point. Even though it's 8 years late....
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 03:44 PM
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I've always done pos to pos, neg to neg. No problems yet. Getting zapped isn't to bad, you'll smile after you jump trust me! I got zapped by the coil wire a few weeks ago...
pos/pos & neg/neg is no problem...on a 1st gen LH where the battery isn't buried under the air filter box. Use the pos jump point on the 2nd gens w/ a good negative ground point somewhere on the motor and you'll be fine. Either that or move your battery to the trunk where you can get to those connections w/out hassle. Might be a little excessive for that purpose alone though.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 01:43 PM
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The Remote Negative lead on your Second Gen is there for this very reason. So when you finish the circuit by connecting your Neg to remote Neg., and it sparks, you wont ignite battery fumes from your dead battery. The remote Negative is about two feet away, and is generally a safe point to connect to. It probably also is a better connection in the fact its cable to the Neg post of your battery is direct, but as short as possible. Just makes sure you keep it clean with a terminal brush and maybe some electro-contact cleaner.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jayslay View Post
The Remote Negative lead on your Second Gen is there for this very reason. So when you finish the circuit by connecting your Neg to remote Neg., and it sparks, you wont ignite battery fumes from your dead battery. The remote Negative is about two feet away, and is generally a safe point to connect to. It probably also is a better connection in the fact its cable to the Neg post of your battery is direct, but as short as possible. Just makes sure you keep it clean with a terminal brush and maybe some electro-contact cleaner.
There's 2 remote terminals. It's more likely than not, there because the battery is buried under everything.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 10:15 PM
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Definately not the easiest battery to take out IMO.
I'm pretty sure the leads are distanced away from the battery for safety measure, as if it were only because its buried, they would be right above the battery at the front of the car.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 08:33 AM
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Definately not the easiest battery to take out IMO.
I'm pretty sure the leads are distanced away from the battery for safety measure, as if it were only because its buried, they would be right above the battery at the front of the car.
We can argue this all we want, but it doesn't really matter.

The leads are likely where they are because of the battery location.

The key with a jump start is that if your battery is dying (and you don't have an AGM battery) then it can be leaking explosive fumes.

The first safety measure is to connect the dead battery first, there is no circuit being competed there so no spark.

Then with the possibility that the other battery is leaking explosive fumes also, don't connect the negative cable straight to the battery. Any spot on the frame that is not covered in paint will work. For us, the jump post is perfect.

The positive jump post for us is actually better than being connected to the battery (not by much though). The starter is connected through the jump post.



My car won't ever be done because I'm insane. That is all.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 12:57 PM
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I have always just done it by terminals pos/pos, then neg/neg... Mostly because half the sets of cables I use don't have enough slack to go to the block or another point of contact...
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