DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

Switching oils.

3K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  KxWarrior 
#1 ·
150K on the odometer, been using Dino oil.
Benifits to switching at this lat stage to full synth Mobil One?
Drawbacks?

I know it's been talked about befor but new oils have come out and things change.
Your thoughts?
 
#2 ·
Go Mobil 1 if you so desire! Dammit! :lol

The myths of synthetic destroying gaskets etc are outdated, with new gasket materials this is not an issue anymore. If you had a 1982 Diplomat with a slant six I would have a different suggestion. Synthetic is much better at handling heat, and has a better detergent to keep things clean and free.
 
#3 ·
No big deal to switch. I would check it more often at first to see if it is consuming it or not. My kid had a GM that drank synthetic, but not a drop of dino....who knows
 
#6 ·
the special, like to use mobile 1,, about a quart every 1200 milesand that was back when it had around 70K,,, lifters rattled also,,, a good hi mileage oil is what I would use,, (ok,, I do use Castrol hi mileage10w30)
 
#12 ·
Been using synthetic in the Special since I got it @ 65k miles. Now at almost 130k. Very little if any oil loss between changes. 4500 mile interval changes. Pennzoil or Mobil 1 are the oils I use in the recommended OEM viscosity. Never had the "Startup Rattle or Tick" since I've owned it.

The Ricer R/T has been on Dino oil since I bought it over 5 years ago. Maybe put 10k miles on it total since I've owned it. (yes that's right..less than 2k miles/year!). OEM viscosity. Oil gets changed once a year whether it needs it or not!
 
#13 ·
run it in my lhs. threw it in at 100k miles, and i ran it in my 95 trep.
it had 200k miles on it when i got it. but i ran it in the trep more for cold starting capablity.
you want an oil to pump at -30C without necessarily being plugged in.
as long as you have no major leaks, it'll be fine as long as you have practiced good maintenance in the past.
possible issue; this is hearsay, but it may knock loose deposits from an unkempt engine, blocking passages. thruth? no actual personal experience of it. bit it sounds plausible.
 
#15 ·
Theory is the additives help to 'swell' aging rubber seals (valve stem, crank, etc) that may be on the verge of seeping/leaking, or leaking already.

It's also usually a blended oil of dino/synth.

If you've run pure dino for the past 100K miles, switching to full synth is fine, but it's possible that after a few changes, you may develop an oil leak where there was none before, due to the cleaning nature of the full synth...

I attribute this to the leaks on both the LHS and the Trep in 2010. Once I went back to a high-mile (I like Valvoline red-jug) those gradually disappeared.

YMMV. I can only offer my own experience/opinion. :D
 
#17 ·
My guess is the pure synthetics don't have the 'additives' (whatever compounds those might be), and whatever bits were keeping things from leaking got washed/cleaned out as the synth did its thang over the course of several oil changes. :dunno:

Pure conjecture on my part. I am not an engineer. :D

Though I am going to send in a sample to Blackstone for analysis here in the next couple of weeks. Never been done since I've owned it - may not tell me anything meaningful, but could give me an indication of current engine 'health'.
 
#19 ·
Well no, but if they do provide harshly negative feedback, some planning can begin.

Well if it comes back 'normal' for a 178K mile, great! I'll plan on the TB/WP again around 200K. :D

They probably can't tell me much from a single analysis. I'm more curious than anything.
 
#27 ·
I thought you already used Mobil 1 Doug?
 
#29 ·
Not to hijack Duds thread, but I have an additional question along these lines.. The M is coming due for its first oil change since I've owned it. The sticker in the window shows they put 10W-30 in it last, but the manual recommends 5W-30. Should I switch it back to the 5, or stick with the 10? Engine had 167k on it btw..
 
#33 ·
Reading the posts here and looking at what is on the shelf at the store, I settled on Castrol GTX 50/50 blend. Going to get her ready for 100% synth and see what happens.

I don't believe Dino oil can be superior to synth. I do believe dino can be adaquate though.
 
#35 ·
I'm 50/50 right now, and I think it helped a little bit. I'm not exactly leaking or anything, and I barely have 78k miles, but I've never considered synthetic until I got another car. I guess the more appropriate thing to say is like what 300Max said.

If it works for ya, then just do it that way, if not, then keep at the dino stuff. :S just throwing my little knowledge in there.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top