Issue with parking sprag and Accumulator - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Issue with parking sprag and Accumulator

I tried to change the solenoid pack on my 2003 Dodge Intrepid, when I put it all together it didn't go into park (just rolls) or overdrive (can't physically more shifter). I read this thread here

[can't post links, but it says its thread 215416 and it was a post by STINGYA called "rolls in park after shift cable adjustment"]

and after a few months decided to take it apart again.

Before I even got it all the way out I found a problem, one of the accumulators was stuck. I got it out and somehow the seal had managed to break/bend and was prohibiting the accumulator from moving. that's an easy fix, I just to have find a place to buy a new seal. My question is, does that fix everything or do I still have a problem with my parking sprag like the guy in the linked thread had? Would a stuck accumulator prevent the car from going into park?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have included a picture of the bad seal on the accumulator and a picture of the parking sprag installed (does it look right?).
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 07:32 AM
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The accumulator won't have any effect on the park rod. Usually, I will roll these seals down around a 1/2 inch in diameter and let them spring back before installing them on the accumulators. Seems to make it easier to install them.

As for the park rod, you need to be removing the valve body in the fully clockwise position. That would be looking down from the top of the trans. If you tried this in any other position you could bend the rod or the eyelet the rod is clipped to.

One of these days, I'm going to take a picture of this and keep it handy.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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So, I went back to this 2 months ago and I still could not get it to work. I got a new seal on the accumulator all good there I'm pretty sure. I'm going to try it again tomorrow night just wondering if anyone has any tips. I'm trying to put the sprag in the eyelit with the two teeth pointing up, but it just doesn't seem to make it in there...
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Meant to add pictures. One is a picture looking at the transmission without the throttle body. The other one is an individual part ordering picture of the sprag.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 07:16 AM
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Take a look through this thread. I have some pictures in there about how the park rod should be positioned. The illustration you have shows the end of the park rod improperly positioned. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees and locked into the plate on the valve body housing before installation.

Ruggels transmission rebuild thread
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adpros View Post
Take a look through this thread. I have some pictures in there about how the park rod should be positioned. The illustration you have shows the end of the park rod improperly positioned. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees and locked into the plate on the valve body housing before installation.
Mind = Blown

... So obviously I've done something wrong, because the sprag is bouncing around all willy nilly. I was trying my hardest to get it to go into it's home, while holding the accumulators and simultaneously lifting the valve body in place (not fun). Now I see you are latching it on to the VB before trying to lift it back into place, I had no idea I could latch it onto to the VB. That is Great! It appears you are indeed keeping the teeth on the sprag up, away from the VB. I think the illustration shows it right, it is just completely upside down, but that's not important because I think I get it now.

I'm going to attack this tonight and I'll post back with hopefully successful results. Thank You!

Last edited by nz87; 11-15-2012 at 12:20 AM.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 10:50 PM
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Sounds good! Any luck yet?
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds good! Any luck yet?
...Nope. Everything is bent. I never really noticed it before, but when actually attempted to put the sprag where it belongs I noticed it. I am sure I bent it when taking it out the first time I misinterpreted clockwise (or counter) on the top thing which releases the sprag in and attempted to remove it. That is all when I did it months ago.

Tonight after examining it and seeing just how bent it is I figured this Valve Body is pretty much toast now, but I decided to try it anyways. Everything fits in nice, way easier and less stress than before. Everything was great until I tried to engage the sprag I got 3 clicks and that's it, it will not go into park. I took it down to get a good look at it and the sprag went right where it belongs on the VB, but it will not engage. I am hoping that only the Valve Body is damaged and not internal parts. I have a replacement that I could borrow out of a dead Intrepid I have. I will probably be doing that in the next week or two.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nz87 View Post
...Nope. Everything is bent. I never really noticed it before, but when actually attempted to put the sprag where it belongs I noticed it. I am sure I bent it when taking it out the first time I misinterpreted clockwise (or counter) on the top thing which releases the sprag in and attempted to remove it. That is all when I did it months ago.

Tonight after examining it and seeing just how bent it is I figured this Valve Body is pretty much toast now, but I decided to try it anyways. Everything fits in nice, way easier and less stress than before. Everything was great until I tried to engage the sprag I got 3 clicks and that's it, it will not go into park. I took it down to get a good look at it and the sprag went right where it belongs on the VB, but it will not engage. I am hoping that only the Valve Body is damaged and not internal parts. I have a replacement that I could borrow out of a dead Intrepid I have. I will probably be doing that in the next week or two.
I'm wondering just how much is bent, (Like you said). But, if you have a junker for parts, that is awesome!
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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I'm wondering just how much is bent, (Like you said). But, if you have a junker for parts, that is awesome!
So, I decided to just get this done. Pulled the valve body from junker (which was in great condition) and popped it in the other one. Engaged the parking sprag, dropped the car and pushed to see if it was in park and it appears to be. Got the pan on poured some ATF in... It turns over, but won't start.

I think it has been off for 3-5 months. I'm assuming this new problem is fuel related.

Starting to get tired of this car...

Last edited by nz87; 11-18-2012 at 11:32 PM.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 11:45 PM
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Stay with it!

Go over your connections, make sure you didn't dislodge something there with the transmission being messed with that much.

Then - can you describe how it isn't starting? Have you checked fuel pressure by just pressing on the test port valve with a small screwdriver (keep a rag handy to block the spray).
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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No I didn't. I'm done with it for today. I charged the battery last night, so when I went to go turn it on today the alarm was goin off. I decided to pull the alarm, but then it wouldn't turn over. Plugged it back in and found the kill switch, now it turns but wont start. That's where I left it, just like in my other post.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 12:13 AM
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Oh - you have an alarm? I find aftermarket alarms to be a real pain when it comes to diagnostics. I'm not a second gen guy, so I'll leave more to someone else to help with - but I do wish you luck with it!
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 07:08 AM
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Take a quick inventory of the basics. Fuel in the tank, pressure at the rail, (60psi +/-) and if you have a way to test light the terminals at the injectors. Just to be sure the kill switch isn't still killing when it shouldn't be.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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So, I decided to blow some starter fluid in the intake just to see what happens and it starts... But it does not like the gas that is in there and it wont stay running. As a matter of fact it seemed to die if I pressed on the accelerator. I'm assuming I have bad gas in there, is that a fair assumption? It ran for about a minute and I have a hard time believing that was purely on 3 seconds of starter fluid.

If I am right, what should I do now? It has about a 1/4 of a tank according to the gauge. My gut tells me the right thing to do is drain the tank and put 91 octane in there. If that's the case how I do that? I know they have some vehicles have anti-siphoning devices installed in the fuel neck, is this one of them? Is there some magical fuel drain/siphoning plug??? Or, do I have to drop the tank and pour it out? Or do I add 3/4 of a tank of 91 octane gas and cross my fingers? Oh and there is also that Stab-ill stuff...

Or am I wrong and is fuel pump bad or disconnected/choked (I swear I can hear it), fuel filter clogged, or something else?

I have not tested the fuel pressure yet, as I'm not so sure how to do that or if I have the correct tools. Also where is the fuel pressure test port, at the very least I can do the screwdriver thing you mentioned. I am sure it is something simple like a capped of thing near the fuel rod, I just get a little extra cautious when I haven't done something before.
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