I'm at a crossroad....what would you do - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
I've only done the rear cam seals...
tell me more
GTXKen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 10:10 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
EagleESI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chatt, TN
Posts: 4,269
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTXKen View Post
This ones a Trep, how would cam seals be different?
Clearly one looks better than the other DUH.
EagleESI is offline  
post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 11:16 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
I think Devan was asking which type of LH it was as to whether you fix it or part it.

As for the cam seals - I did them with the engine out of the car - you can do with with the engine in, I would probably suggest removing the cowl and wiper bucket, then the air intake box (but leave the upper plenum in place), and then change them. They are a three bolt plate, with an o-ring behind the plate. The o-ring gets hard and ineffective. There is an upgradeded rear plate available for the second gen 3.5, that would apply to the first gen cars - removes the o-ring and puts in a gasket... OR, use the right size o-ring - I found one in a plumbing section of a hardware store to fix mine - lasted till the engine trashed itself at least.
cdmccul is offline  
post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleESI View Post
Clearly one looks better than the other DUH.
Nice....LOL
GTXKen is offline  
post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
I think Devan was asking which type of LH it was as to whether you fix it or part it.

As for the cam seals - I did them with the engine out of the car - you can do with with the engine in, I would probably suggest removing the cowl and wiper bucket, then the air intake box (but leave the upper plenum in place), and then change them. They are a three bolt plate, with an o-ring behind the plate. The o-ring gets hard and ineffective. There is an upgradeded rear plate available for the second gen 3.5, that would apply to the first gen cars - removes the o-ring and puts in a gasket... OR, use the right size o-ring - I found one in a plumbing section of a hardware store to fix mine - lasted till the engine trashed itself at least.
The manual has nearly no information about the rear seals. I read a few threads here and have an idea of whats involved. The front seem more involved because of the covers and pulleys but not a huge deal.

I found what I believe are the correct mopar parts online and its an inexpensive project at least. The other part is getting the cam alignment tool which I found for like $50. Just not sure if I want to invest the time. I should really take a couple pictures of this car for you guys, its really a wreck. Rusty and every panel dented, hard to get motivated to work on it.

I'm on my 11th LH Car!

2010 F150 FX4 34k
2004 Impala LS 64K
1997 Intrepid Silver 3.3 186k
1997 Intrepid Sport 3.5 FranknTrep 212K/160K Engine
1995 Intrepid Red 3.5L 108K
1995 Vision TSi 87K
1996 Intrepid Teal 3.3L 69K
1970 GTX 512CI

Pictures:
Vision
Intrepids
GTX
FX4

Impala
GTXKen is offline  
post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 12:29 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Might be worth it to park it for parts - or yank the motor and other good major items for stockpiling, and pitch the rest of it.

As for the cam alignment tools, I personally think there are ways to do it with out the alignment tools - but sure, accuracy goes down.
cdmccul is offline  
post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
I just got home from looking at two base 3.3 intrepids, The first one was pretty clean except for some rocker rust, had 189K and a knock on start up, they were asking $1200, I just sent them an offer of $300 The second had a completely rust free body, one QP dent and a couple scratches, 98K and runs smooth, they were asking $1500 and I havent made an offer, both are pulling codes I haven't read yet.
GTXKen is offline  
post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:31 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
A knock and rusty rockers for 1200??? wow - have I got a deal for you! Yea, $300 is about right.

Thinking about doing a 3.3->3.5 swap on the knocking 3.3? You'll need to make sure the years match, or you'll need to make sure you have access to some other parts (computer mainly).
cdmccul is offline  
post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
Might be worth it to park it for parts - or yank the motor and other good major items for stockpiling, and pitch the rest of it.

As for the cam alignment tools, I personally think there are ways to do it with out the alignment tools - but sure, accuracy goes down.
Body and interior is so toasted I would part it, I know what I put in it and would pull all those parts along with motor and trans and every possible part I could unbolt. The rest I would just cut up with a saws-all and haul in for scrap.

I read the threads, I'd just rather have the tools
GTXKen is offline  
post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:33 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
For $50, the tools are worth it especially with your fleet.
cdmccul is offline  
post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
A knock and rusty rockers for 1200??? wow - have I got a deal for you! Yea, $300 is about right.

Thinking about doing a 3.3->3.5 swap on the knocking 3.3? You'll need to make sure the years match, or you'll need to make sure you have access to some other parts (computer mainly).
Yeah, I'd consider the 3.3 to 3.5 swap. I could do the seals on the motor out of the car and then pull all the harness out of the 97 3.5 and put it in the 93 3.3 car. Or pull the 3.3 and do the bottom end. I don't know, either way its worth $300 and thats all.

I still have another to look at........and there are more out there
GTXKen is offline  
post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 11:06 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Would be quite a strip-out and rebuild, but I wanna see it done... Would be much simpler to get the 93 3.5 computer and swap around dime pins.

Will be keeping an eye on this!
cdmccul is offline  
post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 11:59 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
EagleESI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chatt, TN
Posts: 4,269
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Why does everyone want a 3.5? Want something that will give more mpg and less headaches 3.3 way to go. Not to mention the absolute ease of working on it.
EagleESI is offline  
post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 12:05 AM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
I think in his case it is a matter of finding a dead car for a live motor... what he has is a 3.5 running, and happened to find a dead 3.3 car to receive it.

He seems to have both cars there...

I don't know - I don't think the 3.3 and 3.5 driven the same way have much of a real fuel mileage difference. I have NOT ridden in a prepped 3.3 car - but I can tell you bare stock 3.3 and 3.5 - night and day difference in zip... Maybe a prepped 3.3 like you or Dave have (had) would be a bit different, but then, I think you'd have to prep a 3.5 the same way for an apples to apples comparison.
cdmccul is offline  
post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleESI View Post
Why does everyone want a 3.5? Want something that will give more mpg and less headaches 3.3 way to go. Not to mention the absolute ease of working on it.
I have 1 3.3 car and it is much more simple. I only suggest a 3.5 as a transplant because I have one in a really rough body. I'd really like to buy the $1500 3,3 car with 98K on it and have a second 3.3 car and just part the one with a rough body.
GTXKen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome