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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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main belt tensioner

the head is broken off the tensioner bolt. i didnt know until a week or so ago when i took a close look at how to change the belts. luckily i saw it before i really needed to jack with it, because both belts are good. the car was like this when i bought it.

heres my question.. i dont know if this is the locking bolt, and the adjuster is on the pully, or vise versa, but im guessing this is the adjuster, and when they broke the head off, they used a prybar to put tension on it and tightened the locking bolt. any ideas here? can i replace just this bolt and if so how am i gonna get it out?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 05:54 PM
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The broken one is the tension bolt and the nut on the bolt holding the pulley on is the locknut. My guess is if they used a crowbar to get some tension, then unloosening the lock bolt should immediately get the tension off. go to newmoparparts.com and look for the tensioner pulleys. there you should find the exploded diagram of the complete tensioner unit, and I think you can get certain parts separately, like the adjuster bolt. I think you will need to look under the collision catalogue though because last time I looked the maintence one didn't have diagrams.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 06:00 PM
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Better yet, since I can't find the correct diagram, go to the parts list for the LH's in the 2nd gen how-to's. there are good diagrams in there as well as part numbers. I haven't looked there yet, but I imagine there is a diagram for the tensioners shown.

If you can replace separate parts, obviously you need the tensioner bolt. I would also replace the bolt that it threads into, which is the same one the pulley rides on and the locknut tightens. It might not be a bad idea to replace the pulley, especially if they were prying against it to put tension on the belt.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 06:07 PM
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http://crash459.dodgeintrepid.net/02...trepid300M.pdf

that's the p/n listing, but the diagram is just as vague as the newmoparparts site. They show an exploded diagram for the 3.2/5 but not the 2.7. Only just a few parts with the tensioner bracket the main part. Might want to stop off to the dealer with the p/n and see if it includes the adjuster bolt and all.

4792309 is the p/n for the bracket and is listed for $21.76
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 06:48 PM
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That is the adjusting bolt. If that is a 3.5, the head of that bolt is at the other end (bottom). I just changed my belts and pullies. To get at the adjuster I bought a "flex head ratcheting box wrench 13mm." From on top I reached around and under the alternator to get the wrench on it. The locking nut is in the front center of pully (same one that holds the pully on.) I used a regular length combination wrench 15mm. Using the box end of the combo wrench I was able to loosen the locking nut without removing the upper radiator cross member as suggested by the '02 FSM.

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Last edited by jedgxe; 05-13-2007 at 06:55 PM.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froggy81500
http://crash459.dodgeintrepid.net/02...trepid300M.pdf

that's the p/n listing, but the diagram is just as vague as the newmoparparts site. They show an exploded diagram for the 3.2/5 but not the 2.7. Only just a few parts with the tensioner bracket the main part. Might want to stop off to the dealer with the p/n and see if it includes the adjuster bolt and all.

4792309 is the p/n for the bracket and is listed for $21.76
damn froggy you are the man. thanks for the info..
That is the adjusting bolt. If that is a 3.5, the head of that bolt is at the other end (bottom). I just changed my belts and pullies. To get at the adjuster I bought a "flex head ratcheting box wrench 13mm." From on top I reached around and under the alternator to get the wrench on it. The locking nut is in the front center of pully (same one that holds the pully on.) I used a regular length combination wrench 15mm. Using the box end of the combo wrench I was able to loosen the locking nut without removing the upper radiator cross member as suggested by the '02 FSM. 05-13-2007 15:07


is it the same on a 3.2? i didnt crawl up under the car to check the underside for the head, but that would be nice if it was just hiding from me. i dont see that happening though lol
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froggy81500
http://crash459.dodgeintrepid.net/02...trepid300M.pdf

that's the p/n listing, but the diagram is just as vague as the newmoparparts site. They show an exploded diagram for the 3.2/5 but not the 2.7. Only just a few parts with the tensioner bracket the main part. Might want to stop off to the dealer with the p/n and see if it includes the adjuster bolt and all.

4792309 is the p/n for the bracket and is listed for $21.76
damn froggy you are the man. thanks for the info..
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedgxe
That is the adjusting bolt. If that is a 3.5, the head of that bolt is at the other end (bottom). I just changed my belts and pullies. To get at the adjuster I bought a "flex head ratcheting box wrench 13mm." From on top I reached around and under the alternator to get the wrench on it. The locking nut is in the front center of pully (same one that holds the pully on.) I used a regular length combination wrench 15mm. Using the box end of the combo wrench I was able to loosen the locking nut without removing the upper radiator cross member as suggested by the '02 FSM.
is it the same on a 3.2? i didnt crawl up under the car to check the underside for the head, but that would be nice if it was just hiding from me. i dont see that happening though lol
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 07:44 PM
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I don't know if 3.2 is the same, but here's a pic of a 3.5 HO viewed from above

Last edited by jedgxe; 05-13-2007 at 07:47 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 08:00 PM
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The bolt is on the bottom.

Your tensioner isn't broken.






EDIT: Party!

Last edited by 95LHS; 05-13-2007 at 08:02 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 08:21 PM
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My bad, I thought you had a 2.7. I looked at the pic quick and didn't notice some differences. well, if yiou didn't know about some of those things, like the p/n list, then I at least accomplished something!
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 08:25 PM
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yep same as a 3.2,, and yes its kinda a bitch to get to,,
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 08:39 PM
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Are you guys trying to tell be the adjuster on the tensioner of the 3.2/5 is underneath? Who's the brainiac that designed that number???
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2007, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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hate to bring up this beauty of a thread, but ive got the next 10 days off, and this is one of the things i hope to accomplish.

heres the questions....

someone whos changed the belts before--- is it easier to do this from under the car, or to take off the radiator mount and do it from above, or both?

also whats the best way to know when the belts are tightened enough?
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2007, 11:05 PM
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do them from the bottom!!!!!!,, and just tighten them till you get maybe a 1/8 of a inch of play,, you will need a 15 mm wrench and a 13 mm socket long extension and rachet,, i perfer 1/4 in drive but im sure 3/8 will work fine,, if you do them from the top,, it will take maybe a hour,, from the bottom,, 10-15 mins
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-01-2007, 12:03 AM
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I replaced mine yesterday and I was shocked on how quick it went. It was the original belt from the factory. 125k miles on it.
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