How To: Install Prowler/SE/Special Chainset in your first gen tranny. - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 09-23-2003, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Install Prowler/SE/Special Chainset in your first gen tranny.

This will be an evolving How-To, as I can't remember the EXACT process that I went through on the transmission.. and more than likely the underside of the first gen cars are slightly tweaked throughout the years.

I followed a 300m user's experiance on this... most things were similar.. but some things changed.

Before you start:
Special Tools you *MAY* need:
  • Chain/Gear Spreader - I didn't need one.. but it can make life A LOT easier.
  • "C-Ring" removal tool - I also didn't need this, as my fingers/fingernails worked just fine.

Tools you WILL need:
  • Socket/Ratchet set - I have a run-of-the-mill Craftsman hundres of tools toolset that you can get at sears for $100. all you really need is the mid-sized metric and standard sockets.. and make sure you have some extensions handy too.
  • Car Ramps or Jack Stands - I used 2 Car ramps because I don't have any jack stands here at my place at school. NEVER put your car up on a jack and go underneath.
  • Hydraulic Jack - you will use this to hold up your transmission after you have removed the rear tranny mount.
  • Shop Rags/Oil-Dry - This is a very MESSY procedure. Cleanup is a going to be required.

Parts and supplies you DO need:
  • Part # 4659834 sprocket-T 34 Tooth
  • Part # 4659831 sprocket-O 31 Tooth
  • Part # 4659190 CHAIN-TRAN
  • Several quarts of Mopar ATF +3/+4
  • Mopar ATF RTV (Sealant, also known as "form-a-gasget")

This list might not be 100% complete.. but it should get your through the processes without major delay.

On to the procedure:

Step One:
Clean up the garage, sweep it out, clear some area. you will be on your back under your car for some hours, and you want everything to be clean. Also.. sand/dirt/dust should be kept to a minimum.. as you will have your transmission open and dirt/dust is VERY bad for it.

Step Two:
Lift your car. put it on jackstands, or drive it up on ramps. I would suggest ramps, as they don't load up the sub-frame as much as jackstands do, and you will be removing part of this subframe to get at the back of the transmission. Let every cool down after doing this. you will be working with your arms hitting the exhaust and cat converters.. and these things get HOT under your car.
Once the car is cold, check the level of the transmission fluid. I know that this is NOT going to tell you if you have enough.. but it will give you a rough estimate as to how much you have to add later on in the process. Do this after the car is up, as you will be adding the fluid while it is still up later on in the process. (if you use jack stands.. just make sure the car is on the same level now as it will be when you add the fluid later)

Step Three:
Use the jack and a short piece of wood underneath the transmission pan (make sure the wood covers the WHOLE pan... you don't want to bend this) to reduce the pressure that the transmission is putting on the rear tranny mount. This jack will now be in the way of EVERYTHING.. but it can't be avoided. you NEED to do this.

Step Four/Five/Six:
Remove the Bolts that hold the rear sub-frame crossmember to the subframe, and move it around a little (to make sure that you have enough pressure on the Jack).
Next, figure out if you can remove the SINGLE bolt that holds the tranny mount to the transmission. (the shop that re-built my tranny put this in the wrong way.. prohibiting me from removing the bolt while everything was in the way. a REAL PITA).
If that bolt cannot be removed, you need to wiggle your hand up and around and remove the transmission mount from the Sub-Frame Crossmember first. This isn't hard to do, but it is just time-consuming, as you get only about 1/6 of a turn on a box wrench to loosen those things.
Once you get all of this loose, the fun begins. Try to remove the sub-frame crossmember from above the exhaust. This WILL be tricky. I had to raise and lower the transmission quite a bit with the jack to find the right angle to get the damn thing out. (the rear oxygen sensors will be you worst enemy... they got in the way of EVERYTHING). if you had to remove the tranny mount from the crossmember... take this out too. Now, when you look up, you should see an empty area with the transmission "finger" sticking out the back... (don't laugh.. I don't know what to call this :-P)

Step Seven:
BEWARE! you will be full of ATF! get a catch pan ready!
Remove the Back transmission cover. There are lots of short bolts that hold this up. They are all 13 or 14 mm I think... and some are hard to see; they are on top. Remember, these are all steel bolts threaded into aluminum. do NOT get confused with your ratchet and tighten them instead of loosen. you WILL strip out the threads.
BEWARE! you will be full of ATF! get a catch pan ready!
After removing the bolts.. the cover is going to be REALLY stuck on there because the Black RTV holds really tight. Don't tell anyone you heard this from me... but you can use a little pry-tool (screw driver, wrench, pry bar) on one of little areas on the cover that overhang the tranny.. and GENTLY pry the cover away. BEWARE! you will be full of ATF! get a catch pan ready!
BEWARE! you will be full of ATF! get a catch pan ready!
after the cover is off, this will drip FOREVER if you don't do something. Slightly lower the transmission to drain some extra fluid out.. then lift it back up an inch or so, and you should have solved your drip drip drip problem.

TAKE A BREAK. stand up. walk around. have a beer. you have completely the hardest part. As it goes with all car repairs.. once you have figured out how to take it apart... the rest is *EASY* :bigsmile: (snicker snicker) :bigsmile:

Step Eight:
Inspect your current, stock setup. You will see the chainset.. and the gears. The spindles that the gears (sprockets) are mounted on can easily be seen. The ends of these spindles have the C-Clips, along with some washer/spring devices that hold the chainset in place. Inside the chainset, you should see the little Oil Sprayer. This is where I deviated from what the 300m guy did... He removed this oil sprayer. I didn't have to. I removed the C-clips, (watching them fly all over the place under there because the Washer/Springs are pretty strong) and just pulled the chainset straight off. BE CAREFUL This thing is HEAVY. it may not seem so when you get it in the mailbox.. but when you are on your back with it directly above your head.............

Step Nine:
Get the new gearset all setup and ready to go before you crawl back under the car. Set this thing on a piece of newspaper.. and slide it under the car before you go under. If you have a chain spreader, use it now. (I didn't use one.. I and don't know what they look like... but some people said it helps)
Slide under the car, and get arranged so that you can use both hands to install this thing. Remember: The BIG gear goes towards the PASSENGER side. (this is the one that is CLOSEST to the Chain Oiler). Slide the chainset on... you may have to slightly wiggle the spindles to get everything lined up correctly. put the springs on, the same way that you took them off.. and install the C-Clips. I found that if you put one half of the c-clip on first.. (like, the top half) then went around the circumference of the spindle and pushed it into the channel.. it worked best.


Installation is the reverse of what you had to do before.

Step Ten:
Clean up all the Seal-areas. use a PLASTIC putty knife or your fingernails to clean off the RTV on the transmission and transmission cover. make sure you clean off the gears and the inside of the tranny from anything that might fall in there.

Step Eleven:
Use the RTV around the seal area on the Cover.... spread it smoothy and keep it thick. It can't hurt to have a little extra.

Step Twelve:
Install the Cover.. and put all of the bolts in FIGNER TIGHT. Then follow the Kris Kross (heh) pattern.. and slowly, evenly tighten all the bolts on the cover.

Step Thirteen:
Re-Install the tranny mount and crossmember. Depending on how these came out.. you are going to have to put these in in the same order. once everything is in place... remove the jack from under there. *OPTIONAL* Drop the transmission pan and change the filter (if you want to. I did this because i was already under there)

Step Fourteen:
Wait for some time. The RTV sealant is supposed to sit for awhile before you expose it to the full force of the Mopar ATF. I waited a couple hours. just enough time for a beer or two and some brats (roomates were cooking out).
Top off the Transmission fluid. (since I changed the filter and everything, it took 7 1/2 quarts to fill.) If you didn't change the fluid.. it shouldn't be too much more than 2 or 3 quarts of fluid. Fill it back up to JUST UNDER what you saw initially (a little low is fine.... you can add more once you back it off the ramps or start it up.) Too much and you will have to syphon some out.. and that is a Pain.

Step Fifteen (last one):
Drive it off the ramps/lower it from the jackstands. you should be set!

Remember to check your tranny fluid SEVERAL times in the first couple weeks.

Also.. there is no *Immediate* fix for your speedometer. it will read about 7% off. this means.. when your speedo reads 100, you are really going 93. when your speedo reads 50, you are really going 46. I generally just drive thinking that it is 5 mph off.. and I am safe. I am personally looking into getting a fix for this... but I think Some other members are looking into this also.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 07-27-2004, 01:15 AM
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