300M Special Front Sway Bar Install, 'How To with Pictures'
DISCLAIMER: These instructions are provided with no guarantee. The author is not responsible for any damage or injury caused by following these instructions.
Pictures are at end of session:
Front Sway Bar: 4782858AA [SDE]
Front Sway Bar Bushing: 4782859AA Qty 2 [SDE,SDB]
(PHP center vented rotors and brake pads)
Advance Auto YH145263 (roughly $78.00 for the set)
Brake Pads: Your Choice
Background on the 300M Special Front Sway Bar:
The factory sway bar is ø27mm and the Special is ø29mm. The 2mm difference may not sound like much, yet the torsional stiffness raises to the 4th power, hence a major increase. The torsional stiffness formula is J = [(Pi/2)*r^4] where Pi=3.1416 and r = radius of bar. So if a ratio is set-up with the ø27mm in the numerator and ø29mm in the denominator, you get a 24.84% increase in torsional stiffness!!
I did this job in the driveway, using air tools and had the front sway bar out of the car in 1 hour 15 minutes (included pulling ALL the tolls out from the shed). If you have a garage with everything at hand, 45 minutes (tops) to pull out the front sway bar. It was not a hard job, only the passenger strut has to come out, two people are not needed and the results are WELL worth it.
Total Time: 3 hours and a few cold ones
Remove windshield covering on passenger side.
Remove 4 nuts on top of strut tower
Loosen lug nuts on BOTH tires
Jack up car, support well, remove tires
(Optional: Remove brake caliper and rotor on passenger side, support caliper)
Remove stab bar link on top of strut (18mm wrench, 10mm wrench)
Remove stab bar link on bottom of stab bar (18mm wrench, 10mm wrench)
Remove tie rod end (16mm wrench, 7mm wrench) use brass hammer to break free
I used a white dye marker for strut alignment marks
Remove NUTS only from two strut bolts (24 mm)
Tap out bolts, you’ll see the serrations on the bolts
Remove strut from car
SECURE HALF SHAFT TO PREVENT THE AXLE FROM PULLING OUT
(I used wire)
Opposite side: Remove stab bar linkage from driver’s side sway bar
Remove 9 bolts from structural collar from engine and tranny, (flywheel exposed slightly) (15mm)
Remove 4 nuts from engine mounts (15mm deep well)
Remove 2 mounting bushings brackets from each side (15mm)
Jack up engine until TB barley touches hood, use a wood block under the motor and common sense. Don’t force the engine up!!
Remove bar by rotating it, routing in front of half shaft and behind knuckle.
Not too bad, huh?
Install the ø29mm stabilizer bar the way the smaller one came out
DO NOT LET THE HALF SHAFT PULL OUT
(I had to re-tie the half shaft to another mounting point during installation, it got in the way.)
Install the structural support collar and 9 bolts (easier this way)
Lower the motor, the mounting bolts didn’t come out of the cradle frame.
Install the 4 engine nuts
Install the new stab bushings, slit forward and flat side down
Install retainer caps for the bushings, (HAND TIGHTEN BOLTS)
CENTER STAB BAR USING ENGINE CRADLE AS A GUIDE!!, underside of motor
(I used a dead blow hammer to get it centered)
Tighten retainer cap bolts
Driver’s Side: Install stab bar link
Install strut, (realign using white dye marker alignment marks)
Install 4 nuts on top of strut tower
Install two strut bolts: Again, tap bolts in, TIGHTEN NUTS ONLY
Install tie rod end
Install upper stab bar link
Install lower bar link
From here your done, at this point I did my rotors and brakes on both sides and clean-up. Do the brake break-in procedure, if needed.
The results..?.. WELL WORTH IT. The car steers tighter and can take a clover leaf at some very high speeds. Very little front body roll.
I hope some of you’all get some use out of this ‘How-To’
P.S. Please follow FSM if equipped with Antilock brakes.
Use the pictures below with the instructions above. I didn't feel like putting a description with each picture...
Please note: there IS clearance between the bar and frame..