Engine turn over but does not start - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Engine turn over but does not start

95 Intrepid 3.3 (103,000 miles). When attempting to start my car it turns over but does not start. I have to try to start it at least two times before it starts. The battery terminals are not corroded and the connections are not loose. I replaced the following: fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel pressure regulator and there is no change. All the gaskets on the intake were changed at least four months ago. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-22-2008, 07:47 AM
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You might check fuel system pressure and see if it holds between runnings, or if it bleeds down to zero pretty soon after you shut off the engine.

If it doesn't seem to hold pressure well, you might re-check the FPR and connections at the fuel filter. I don't know if the 3.3 uses the same FPR as a 3.5, but if it does you might have an o-ring issue.

Short version: On the 3.5, the FPR uses an upper and lower o-ring. Sometimes the lower one doesn't come out of the cavity in the fuel rail, or sometimes fragments of it are left behind. More often, an incorrect install procedure leaves just enough of a pressure leak to cause starting problems but not enough to show leaking fuel. Correct procedure is to oil o-rings, install lower one into rail cavity *first*, install upper on FPR, then 'snap' the FPR into the cavity.

That doesn't intuitively look like the right procedure, but it for sure is. Don't know if it applies to the 3.3, though, but even if it doesn't you might look around for a spot where system pressure could be bleeding off between runs. The approx. 1-second fuel pump run at key-on usually isn't enough to pressurize the whole system unless there was already residual pressure. If not, (at least on the 3.5) it can take as many as 4 or 5 key-on cycles without cranking to get full system pressure. According to my experiences and my fuel pressure gauge, anyway.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-12-2008, 10:05 PM
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Hi,
I am also having starting issues. Cranks but will not start. No codes, changed coil, plugs, wires, cam pos sensor. I have spark. Plugs were wet, so I have fuel. I hear the whirrr of the fuel pump. I also noticed, however, that there is a hiss/gurgle in the general area of the fuel pressure regulator. Is this normal? I am guessing it is, but have never heard it before. Car has been dead for 10 days, but was running perfect before that. Ran for 15 mins or so 5 days ago, but since then nothing.

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Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Febtober
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 04:57 AM
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Timing belt? If it's broken or slipped more than a tooth or two, you can crank until the cows come home and go back out again and you'll never get a start.

*I* don't usually hear any particular noises near the FPR, but I'm getting old and blasted my brains out with headphones a lot back in the '60s. Actually my hearing's not that bad, but I'm not sure I'd be able to easily tell if a noise was coming directly from the FPR or somewhere else nearby...
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tansoback16 View Post
95 Intrepid 3.3 (103,000 miles). When attempting to start my car it turns over but does not start. I have to try to start it at least two times before it starts. The battery terminals are not corroded and the connections are not loose. I replaced the following: fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel pressure regulator and there is no change. All the gaskets on the intake were changed at least four months ago. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Take the suggestions from the other post and check the fuel pressure and pump. i would go with the pump first. When you turn the key to accessories(not to start) do you hear the pump prime? If you dont, either the relay(located under the hood in the black box) is bad or the pump is bad. You could also possible have a bad wire to the pump, you can check to see if this is working. Get a Haynes manual or similar I dont remember the color of the wires you have to probe. With the voltmeter set to volts and probed on the correct wires have a buddy turn the key to accessories, you should get a quick voltage reading(for ~1sec), if you do not have this the problem is elsewhere. If you have power but no pump noise then the pump is bad. good luck , hopefully not the pump they are $$$
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 09:45 PM
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I have pump. I do not have pressure gauge, but gas shoots out test port (pressing valve w/screwdriver) when pump primes and when engine cranks. Also, plugs were wet when I replaced them. I am sure I have fuel and spark.
I definately hear a hiss/gurgle when the pump primes. I also coincides with the gas shooting out the test port. Sound is in vicinity of FPR.
As far as timing belt goes, car ran great on 3/3 until it would not start. Then it ran on 3/8 right after I replaced cam pos sensor. I ran it for 15 minutes, then 3/9 it would not run and has not since.

Thanks again,
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 05:26 AM
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Timing belts can be weird and fail in different ways; usually they will just break and since the valves are suddenly not working so goes the rest of the engine.

But depending on what else is going on, such as water pump or tensioner/pulley issues, you can have a damaged belt or a situation where it slips a tooth or two on the sprocket assemblies. It doesn't take but one or two instances of that to throw everything out of time such that the engine will not start. The slipped-some-teeth scenario would also be consistent with having fuel and spark but no start. A completely broken belt would keep the cams from turning and thus the cam sensor wouldn't get a signal. In such case the ASD relay cuts off both fuel and spark.

But if you have fuel and spark whilst cranking, the list of possible culprits gets smaller and smaller. Physical valve timing is certainly one; maybe contaminated fuel could be another possible (if unlikely) cause.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2008, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Febtober i changed my crank sensor and it fixed the problem don't know if this will help your situation. I also cannot say it is a permanent fix. I replaced the old sensor on saturday and the car started without the usual 2 to 3 key cycles. This morning it started aswell on the first attempt.
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