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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2001, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Intrepid Electrical System

Since installing some very powerful stereo equipment in my car I have noticed some oddities and had some failures:

1. The car idles funny when the stereo is at high volume.
2. The headlights will dim, and if the dome lights are on, they will dim SEVERELY.
3. I had the car for two years with no troubles other than a water pump, but since then I have had a bad ignition, vehicle speed sensor, and an altenator. All the problems seem to be related to the electrical system of the vehicle.

I am considering a charging system with a second battery and a solenoid. Does anyone know if the electrical systems in this car lack any kind of undervoltage protection? Could the stereo be causing damage to the ignition and/or other engine/transmission electrical subsystems?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 12:12 AM
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id go with the solenoid. before i got one all my shit dimmed like hell and my car would barely start.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 03:06 AM
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Its all about Large capicators. This will smooth the power of the electrical system. and yes, the electrical system troubles are probably directly related to the poundin system. But hook the Capicators up right and the voltage will be solid as a rock
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Capacitors are fine for amplifiers with short bursts of current draw. The amplifier I am using is a MMATS D300HC. It is a Class-D amp that draws about 100 amps constant and peaks at about 200 amps of draw. Caps are not going to help me because the problem is not spikes in current draw. I am drawing more power sustained than a cap or five is going to help with. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by PBCrunch:
Capacitors are fine for amplifiers with short bursts of current draw. The amplifier I am using is a MMATS D300HC. It is a Class-D amp that draws about 100 amps constant and peaks at about 200 amps of draw. Caps are not going to help me because the problem is not spikes in current draw. I am drawing more power sustained than a cap or five is going to help with. Thanks for the suggestion though.
go get a a farad lighting cap.. this will help.. and a 2nd battery in line with the amp couldn't hurt either..
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 03:47 PM
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Very simple solution...higher power alt, or get yours custom wound. You say your problem lies in power draw, so that is where I would start.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LHSer:
Very simple solution...higher power alt, or get yours custom wound. You say your problem lies in power draw, so that is where I would start.
I agree with LHSer.

Battery will do jack shit unless you listen to your stereo with your car engine off. A capacitor will help, but not as much as a better alternator.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2001, 10:56 PM
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A capacitor is only for sudden bursts of high power, not constant draw. And like warlord said, an extra battery is only good if you do a lot of listening with the car off.

An upgraded alt or a rewound one is your best option. I'd go with 120 amps for your needs.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2001, 11:26 AM
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You could try a better battery, somthing with a bit more current potential. IF your still using the stock chrysler battery, simply put, they suck.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2001, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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I am using a Westco 80 deep cycle battery. At this point I am pretty sure I am going to use a second battery and a solenoid to separate the two batteries.

Thanks.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2001, 06:39 PM
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i had the same problem you have to get another battery for the system. the only draw back its going to cost you money. you have to get an isolator which keeps the battery charged and draws power from the alternator and other battery. and then a fuse lock and fuse switch and allot of shit. it ended up costing me $600 dollars. for installation and the red top optima battery. but you know something your system will get much louder especially your mids and high.

I would of showed you my set up on the car. But the shit got damaged because of the spoiler water leaked in were the tire area is at and that's where everything was for the battery and it got corroded without the water. :( but good luck I hope this helps.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2001, 11:07 PM
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Adding another battery will just put more strain on the alternator because, now the alternator has to charge up 2 batteries instead of one. I have 2 caps in my car and an optima power pumper 750 deep cycle battery, I still have alil light dim when riding around, nothing too serious, I'm happy with it. Personally I expect it to drain power from it considering how much wattage is being put to my subs. I just recently installed a 134 amp alternator, charges the battery real quick. My opinion is upgrade the battery you have to a deep cycle, and upgrade the alternator. See if that helps, if not, try caps.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2001, 11:20 PM
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anyone try shoe-horning the new 160 amp (180 maybe) alternator from the police package into the first gen cars? that would definatly settle that problem.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2001, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Where did you get a 134 amp alternator for your Intrepid? Is it a 3.3L or 3.5L? I fried one already and was told that 90 amp was the largest available for the engine. When I called an alternator shop in town they told me there was nothing they could do because they couldnt get stators for the alternator and the the voltage regulator is in the engine computer.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2001, 09:35 PM
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Dad has the test slips for how my alternator rated and they tested at 134 amps. Not sure on where he got it though, he has had it as a spare in the garage for a good while, until recently when I fried my old one(no clue how). I'd have to ask him. It bolted on snugg. Charges real fast.
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