How to replace CV Half Shaft - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 6
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
How to replace CV Half Shaft

Hi

I have a Chrysler Concorde LX with a broken/bent Front Left CV Half shaft.

Is this difficult to replace? Is there a How To Guide somewhere?

I am going to do the Bearing and Hub assembly at the same time.


Thanks and Best Regards



Steve
Valdhor is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 05:34 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
yiranhu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Powell Ohio
Posts: 1,778
Feedback: 9 / 100%
                     
Not bad to do especially if you do the bearing and hub at the same time. The only difficulty that people have sometimes is that the bearing assembly is so stuck on the steering knuckle that it doesn't want to come out. What you need to do is apply penetrating oil between bearing and knuckle, pound it, and then apply some more wait a little bit, and pound. A few iterations and the thing will become loose.

The halfshaft is secured on the tranny by a circlip (a ring metal clip). Before you remove the outside end from the bearing, first pop the inner end off the circlip. This is because you want the shaft in a good horizontal position to clear the circlip. To get it past the circlip, insert a pry thing between the tranny housing and the tripod joint and give it a good impact jolt.

To get the shaft out of the knucle, you need to either take off the two big knuckle bolts, or remove the tie rod and control arm bolt from the the knuckle so that it can swing out a little bit. Either way is fine.

Yiran Hu
graduate research associate
Center for Automotive Research
at THE Ohio State University

2004 Intrepid SXT
Your Current Signature Picture
yiranhu is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 08:24 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southwest, UT
Posts: 3,041
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Here you go:

Halfshafts

IDENTIFICATION


All LH platform vehicles are equipped with an unequal length driveshaft system. The left side of the vehicle is equipped with a longer driveshaft (also called a halfshaft) than the right side of the vehicle. The LH platform uses solid interconnecting shafts on both sides of the vehicles. The halfshaft assemblies are three piece units. Each halfshaft has a tripod joint, an interconnecting shaft and a outer CV-Joint. The tripod joint is splined onto the transaxle stub shaft and the outer CV-Joint has a stub shaft that is splined into the front wheel hub and bearing assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1 through 10


Fig. 1: Halfshaft identification

Fig. 2: Removal or installation of the speed sensor routing bracket

Fig. 3: Remove the stub axle retaining nut

Fig. 4: Using a special tool to press the stub axle from the hub and bearing

Fig. 5: Carefully dislodge the inner tripod joint at the transaxle stub shaft

Fig. 6: Removal or installation of the strut-to-steering knuckle nuts

Fig. 7: Removing or installing the outer CV-joint at the steering knuckle end

Fig. 8: Support the tripod joint and remove the shaft assembly

Fig. 9: Prior to installation, apply a 1mm bead of grease here

Fig. 10: Prior to installation, always use a new O-ring seal and retaining clipWARNING
Allowing the CV-joint assemblies to dangle unsupported or pulling or pushing the ends can damage boots or CV-joints. Always support both ends of the halfshaft to prevent damage or disengagement of the Tripod joint.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheels.
Remove the front caliper assembly from the steering knuckle.
Remove the front brake rotor from the hub by pulling it straight off wheel mounting studs.
Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket from the strut assembly.
Remove the hub and bearing-to-stub axle retainer nut.
Install a puller tool onto the hub and bearing assembly and secure it into place using the wheel lug nuts.
Protect wheel stud threads by installing a wheel lug nut onto a wheel stud. Install a flat blade prying tool to prevent the hub from turning. Using the puller tool, force the halfshaft outer stub axle from the hub and bearing assembly.
Dislodge the inner Tripod joint from the stub shaft retaining snapring on the transaxle. To do this, insert a prybar between the transaxle case and the inner Tripod joint and pry on Tripod joint.
Do not try to remove the inner Tripod joint from the transaxle stub shaft at this time. Only disengage the inner Tripod joint from the retainer snapring.

Remove the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts from the strut assembly.
WARNING
The strut assembly to steering knuckle bolts are serrated (toothed) where they go through the strut assembly and steering knuckle. When removing the bolts, turn the nuts off the bolt. Do not turn the bolts in the steering knuckle or damage to the steering knuckle will result.
Separate the top of the steering knuckle from the lower end of the strut.
Hold the outer joint assembly with one hand. Grasp the steering knuckle with the other hand and rotate it out and to the rear of the vehicle, until the outer CV-joint clears the hub and bearing assembly.
WARNING
When removing the outer CV-joint from the hub and bearing assembly, do not allow the flange disc on the hub and bearing assembly to become damaged. If this happens, dirt and water can enter the bearing which will cause premature bearing failure.
Remove the halfshaft inner joint from the transaxle stub shaft by grasping the inner Tripod joint and the interconnecting shaft and pulling both pieces at the same time. Take care not to pull on the interconnecting shaft to remove or separation of the spider assembly will occur.
To install:


Replace the inner Tripod joint retaining circlip and O-ring seal on the transaxle stub shaft. These components are not reusable and must be replaced whenever the halfshaft is removed.
Apply an even coat of grease on the splines of the inner Tripod joint, where the O-ring seats against the Tripod joint.
Install the halfshaft through the hole in the splash shield. Grasp the inner joint in 1 hand and interconnecting shaft in the other. Align the inner Tripod joint spline with the stub shaft spline on the transaxle. Use a rocking motion with the inner Tripod joint to get it past the circlip on the transaxle stub shaft.
Continue pushing Tripod joint onto transaxle stub shaft until it stops moving. The O-ring on the stub shaft should not be visible when the inner Tripod joint is fully installed. Check that the inner Tripod joint is locked in position by grasping the inner joint and pulling. If locked in position, the joint will not move on the stub shaft.
Hold the outer CV-joint assembly with one hand. Grasp the steering knuckle with the other and rotate it out and to the rear of the vehicle. Install the outer CV-joint into the hub and bearing assembly.
Install the top of the steering knuckle into the strut assembly. Align the steering knuckle to strut assembly mounting holes.
Install the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts. Install the nuts to the attaching bolts and while holding the bolt heads, tighten nuts to 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm). Turn the nuts on the bolts. Do NOT turn the bolts.
Install a new hub and bearing assembly-to-stub shaft retainer nut. Tighten but do not torque the nut at this time.
Install the speed sensor cable routing bracket and secure attaching screw.
Install the brake rotor and the caliper assembly. Install the caliper guide pin bolts to steering knuckle and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm). Lower the vehicle to the ground. Pump the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained.
Apply the brakes and torque the new stub shaft-to-hub and bearing assembly retainer nut to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm).
WARNING
When tightening the stub shaft retaining nut, be careful not to exceed the maximum torque specification of 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm). If this specification is exceeded, failure of the halfshaft could result.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Road test vehicle to check for noise or vibration.


2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee my current DD

1995 3.5L Intrepid, Sold in 2010
Strongt is offline  
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-23-2008, 08:31 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southwest, UT
Posts: 3,041
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Front Hub and Bearing

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


On this vehicle, the front wheel hub and wheel bearing is serviced only as a complete assembly. The front wheel bearings can be neither lubricated or adjusted. The front wheel bearings are not serviced separately. They are sealed units in the hub and must be serviced as an assembly. The hub and bearing assembly is mounted to the steering knuckle by 3 bolts that are removed from the rear of the steering knuckle. Refer to the Steering Knuckle removal and installation procedure.

Steering Knuckle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7


Fig. 1: Unbolt the steering knuckle-to-hub

Fig. 2: If the hub is too tight, pry the unit off as shown

Fig. 3: Slide the hub and bearing assembly off the stub shaft

Fig. 4: Remove the nut and bolt for the control arm-to-knuckle

Fig. 5: Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle

Fig. 6: Remove the strut-to-knuckle attaching bolts

Fig. 7: Make sure the hub mounting surfaces are smooth and free of debris
The steering knuckle is a single casting with legs machined for attachment to the front strut assembly and lower control arm ball joint. It also has machined areas to support and align the caliper assembly. The knuckle also holds the front halfshaft out CV-Joint hub and bearing assembly. Be aware that a new replacement hub nut must be used for this service.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheel(s).
Remove the front caliper assembly from the steering knuckle.
Remove the front brake rotor from the hub by pulling it straight off wheel mounting studs.
Remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor cable routing bracket from the strut assembly. Remove the screw attaching the speed sensor to the steering knuckle. If the sensor is seized, use a small hammer and a punch and gently tap the edge of the sensor ear, rocking the sensor side to side until it is free.
Remove the hub and bearing-to-stub axle retainer nut. This hub nut is a torque prevailing retaining nut and can not be reused. A NEW retaining nut MUST be used when assembling the hub to complete this repair.
Remove the three steering knuckle to hub assembly attaching bolts.
If the metal seal on the hub and bearing assembly is seized to the steering knuckle and becomes dislodged on hub and bearing during removal, the hub and bearing must be replaced. If the flinger disc becomes damaged during the removal procedure, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle by pulling it straight out of the knuckle and off the ends of the stub shaft. Due to rust and corrosion, especially on high-mileage vehicles, it will probably be necessary to gently pry the assembly out with a prybar or tap it out with a soft face hammer. Be careful not to damage the hub and bearing assembly, if it is to be reused. Once loosened, remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle by sliding it straight out of the knuckle and off the ends of the stub shaft.
To remove the steering knuckle, remove the ball joint stud-to-steering knuckle clamp nut and bolt. Do not allow the ball joint seal to hit against the steering knuckle when the lower arm is separated from the steering knuckle.

Carefully insert a prybar between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle. Push down on the prybar to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Take care not to cut the ball joint seal during disassembly.
Remove the strut assembly to steering knuckle nuts from the bolts.
WARNING
The steering knuckle bolts are serrated (toothed) where they go through the strut assembly and steering knuckle. Do not turn the bolts during removal or damage to the knuckle will result.
Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.
To install:


Clean and inspect all parts well. Check the seal boots on the lower ball joint and steering tie rod end. Begin reassembly by installing the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud and tighten bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
Position the steering knuckle neck into the strut assembly and align the bolt holes.
Install the strut assembly to steering knuckle retaining bolts and while holding the bolt heads stationary with a wrench, tighten nuts to 125 ft. lbs. (169 Nm). Use a wrench to hold the nuts while turning the bolts. Do not allow the bolts to turn in the steering knuckle or damage to the knuckle will result.
Clean the hub and bearing mounting surfaces of dirt and make sure there are no nicks present. Install the hub and bearing to the stub shaft and the steering knuckle. Install the 3 bearing assembly mounting bolts and tighten equally until the bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front of the steering knuckle. At this point, tighten the three mounting bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
Install a new hub and bearing assembly-to-stub shaft retainer nut. A NEW retaining nut MUST be used when assembling the hub. Tighten but do not torque the nut at this time.
Install the speed sensor cable routing bracket and secure attaching screw. Coat the head of the speed sensor with a thin coat of high temperature multi-purpose grease and install it into the steering knuckle. Tighten he retaining screw to 60 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
Inspect the brake rotor and front disc brake pads and service or replace these items as required. Install the brake rotor and the caliper assembly. Install the caliper to steering knuckle retainer bolts and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm)
Install the front wheel(s) and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm). Lower the vehicle to the ground. Pump the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained.
With the weight on the vehicle on its wheels, apply the brakes to keep the vehicle from moving. Tighten the hub and bearing assembly to stub shaft retaining nut to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm).
WARNING
When tightening the hub and bearing assembly to stub shaft retaining nut, do not exceed the maximum torque of 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm). If the maximum torque is exceeded this may result in a failure of the halfshaft.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Inspect the toe setting on the vehicle and adjust, if necessary.
Road test vehicle to verify proper operation and no front wheel bearing noise.


2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee my current DD

1995 3.5L Intrepid, Sold in 2010
Strongt is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 6
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Wow. You guys are amazing.

Thanks very much.
Valdhor is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 06:45 PM
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bayville, NJ
Posts: 13
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Thank-you StrongT for your post. My passenger side halfshaft started as a simple vibration upon acceleration and progressed to parasitic power loss, shudder under acceleration and was simply a pain. The axle nut took about 300-400 pounds of torque to get off, I had an 18" breaker bar attached to a 33 mm socket and couldn't budge it....we added a 5 foot pipe from my jack and that loosened the axle nut immediately. (I'd put tons of thread penetrant on it previously to no effect)

Assembly was quite simple, my only issue was getting the halfshaft's inboard female connector to snap past the new cer-clip, it took a few tries. The car now drives like a dream again and hopefully will last me another 10k-20k miles.

Thanks again for the succinct post.

Regards,
Aaron
afl in nj is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 10:36 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
mass04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,341
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
I read this post too late, I would have recommended putting some anti-seize on the inner spline and clip. These can really be a pain to remove if it gets stuck and rusted.

I actually have a small hole in the outer boot of my ps shaft but cannot remove it from the tranny. It is currently sealed with duct tape.
mass04 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Random Question

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome