3.5 water pump-- How-To - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Question 3.5 water pump-- How-To

Wow, its been a real loongtime since I have even been on the site (good or bad how ever you want to look at it )

Anyway, on to my question:

I was looking through the how tos for how to go about changing the water pump on a 97 3.5. I found one for a 3.3 but not 3.5.
Also, what is the tell tale signs that the pump is bad?

I also looked on Auto Zone but they didnt have anything really for a 3.5, just the 3.3
Auto Zone how to

Thanks!!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 09:00 PM
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the first turn of the key to on position you should hear the pump relay.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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the first turn of the key to on position you should hear the pump relay.
Thanks stroise,
but water pump, not fuel pump.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 09:04 PM
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opps ok my bad

when you hear a howling sound. It sounds like wolves are howling. that is when your water pump is going. or u have antifreeze leaking
mine went early on me. Like at 17,xxx miles. i hear howling noises as i drove. thank god i was on a side street on my way home and i lost power steering and car died and it was a very bad expierance. good thing i wasnt doing 50mph on highway. turned out to be waterpump and i had serpentine belt replaced.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 12:23 AM
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It covers the timing belt too but here's a good one I used when I did mine:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t69678/
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloveberg View Post
It covers the timing belt too but here's a good one I used when I did mine:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t69678/
Thanks Glove! And a write up by the ever so helpful STRONGT

I vote for Strongs how-to to be added to the How-to section (maybe broken up into 2 sections-timing belt/water pump) since the only thing there is for a 3.3!

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t69678/#post903154
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2008, 05:57 PM
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After you get into it things become more obvious but that is a great how-to so you can get started. If your car has more than 75K miles I would suggest you replace the timing belt and tensioner pulley while you're in there. It only adds a little more time and you won't have to worry about it breaking and stranding you somewhere.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloveberg View Post
After you get into it things become more obvious but that is a great how-to so you can get started. If your car has more than 75K miles I would suggest you replace the timing belt and tensioner pulley while you're in there. It only adds a little more time and you won't have to worry about it breaking and stranding you somewhere.
Thanks Glove, I was hoping that would be the case and kinda figured it after looking through the how to.

One other thing, in the write up it says to remove the harmonic balancer. That doesn't have to come off really does it, as I thought the cover was in 2 pieces, the bigger upper main piece and a lower plate below the balancer?


Again, Strongs write up need to be in the how-to section
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 10:24 PM
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You are absolutely right, don't bother with the balancer because the cover is two pieces. There are three bolts behind it for the bottom section which can be a pain to get back started but it's not enough to warrant removing the balancer. Take your time and if you do replace the belt just work it around until it goes back on. BE SURE TO MARK THE CAMS BEFORE YOU LOOSEN OR REMOVE THE BELT. There are timing marks if you do bump them though.

Taking my time it took me 2-3 hours but I was replacing the water pump, belt and pulley.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloveberg View Post
You are absolutely right, don't bother with the balancer because the cover is two pieces. There are three bolts behind it for the bottom section which can be a pain to get back started but it's not enough to warrant removing the balancer. Take your time and if you do replace the belt just work it around until it goes back on. BE SURE TO MARK THE CAMS BEFORE YOU LOOSEN OR REMOVE THE BELT. There are timing marks if you do bump them though.

Taking my time it took me 2-3 hours but I was replacing the water pump, belt and pulley.
havin' a hard time. it acts like it is all one piece (the top and bottom pieces of the stamped cover). I see the bottom 3 bolts and man I hope I dont have to take those out :( . Not sure if i'm missing taking a bolt out or what, I have taken all out that I see. I think the top 2 of the bottom 3 do have to come out.

EDIT-confirmed, top 2 of the bottom 3 do have to come out!

Last edited by spfrosty; 09-19-2008 at 03:45 PM. Reason: added info
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Next coupl eof questions.

There is antifreeze in the bottom of the cast housing, is that synonymous with a bad water pump? Most likely but I want to make sure.



Belts and all inside look great, no checking, no stretching

Last edited by spfrosty; 09-19-2008 at 04:23 PM.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Need help ASAP, please!

Serious problem!!

When I was putting the tensioner back in, the tightening of the belt made the drivers side slip time. So I took the tensioner back out readjusted it then put the belt back on and put tensioner back in.

Now, when I adjusted the drivers side, does it matter how many revolutions it went around so long as the timing mark lines up????
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spfrosty View Post
Serious problem!!

When I was putting the tensioner back in, the tightening of the belt made the drivers side slip time. So I took the tensioner back out readjusted it then put the belt back on and put tensioner back in.

Now, when I adjusted the drivers side, does it matter how many revolutions it went around so long as the timing mark lines up????
Line them up and you should be fine.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2008, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Line them up and you should be fine.
Thanks Phil!!!

I was hoping so :icon_neut .

I dont know what the heck I was doing when I started turning the drivers side without thinking first then hoping so long as the mark was lined up cuz I didnt turn nothing but the driver cam.

Wanting to make sure before I start it tomorrow. But both cams are lined up and crank was not turned.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-20-2008, 01:42 AM
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you need to turn the cam via the SHORTEST distance to get it aligned again. You can't just turn in the long direction over and over... You can only do that if the engine is noninterference... (come to think of it, is first gen nonintereference??)
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