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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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code 32

after i replaced the O2 sensor ... it ran great fer one night .... then slowly i lost power everyday

so i was goin down the road tonight and my chk engine light comes on ... im thinking that mayb my problem is finally in this code ..... sure enough i look it up ... "Open or shorted condtion detected in the EGR transucer solenoid circuit" ..... so all along it was my EGR thing .... iv takin this thing off b4 (i think) andd tried one outta a stratus but i dont think it helped .... but my O2 coulda been the problem then .....

so just outta curiosity .... what do i replace outta this code ..... i have like no power that i need ASAP otherwise i cant get to work :/
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 10:44 PM
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From the FSM. (edit I forgot you have a 3.5)

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM
TESTING—3.5L ENGINE
WARNING: APPLY PARKING BRAKE AND/OR
BLOCK WHEELS BEFORE PERFORMING EGR SYSTEM
TEST.
A failed or malfunctioning EGR system could cause
engine spark knock, and possibly sags or hesitation,
rough idle, and stall the engine. To ensure proper operation
of the EGR system, all passages and moving
parts must be free of deposits that could cause plugging
or sticking. Ensure that the system hoses does
not leak. Replace leaking components.
Inspect hose connections between intake manifold,
EGR solenoid and transducer, and the EGR valve.
Replace hardened, cracked, or damaged hoses. Replace
faulty hoses.
TESTING ELECTRONIC EGR TRANSDUCER
SOLENOID—3.5L ENGINE
(1) Ensure manifold vacuum flows to the electronic
EGR transducer.
Use the DRB scan tool’s Actuators screen to test
the solenoid on the electronic EGR transducer. Refer
to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Manual.
(2) Disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the
transducer. Tee a vacuum gauge between the transducer
and hose. Start the vehicle. There should be a
minimum of 15 inches of vacuum supplied to the solenoid.
If vacuum is low, check for kinked or twisted
hoses and leaking hoses or hose connections.
(3) Actuate the solenoid using the DRB scan tool.
The solenoid should click when turned on and off. As
the solenoid cycles, it should shut vacuum to the
transducer on and off. Replace the EGR valve and
transducer/solenoid if the solenoid operates incorrectly.
If the solenoid operates correctly, test the
transducer.

TESTING EGR TRANSDUCER—3.5L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose and back-pressure
hose from the transducer. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the solenoid.
(2) Plug the transducer output port (Fig. 3).
(3) Apply 1 to 2 PSI of air pressure to the transducer
back-pressure port. Use a hand held air pump
or compressed air regulated to 2 PSI.
(4) Apply a minimum of 12 inches of vacuum to
the other side of the transducer. Replace the EGR
valve and transducer/solenoid if the transducer does
not momentarily hold vacuum then slowly bleed off.

TESTING EGR VALVE—3.5L ENGINE
(1) Remove the EGR valve from the engine. Refer
to EGR System Service.
(2) While applying at least 15 inches of vacuum to
the EGR valve diaphragm, check for movement of the
valve stem.
² If the stem does not move, replace the EGR valve
and transducer/solenoid as an assembly.
² If the stem moves approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch),
maintain vacuum supply to diaphragm. The valve
should remain open for approximately 30 seconds or
more. If the valve leaks, replace the EGR valve and
transducer/solenoid.
(3) If the EGR valve operates correctly, check for
blockage in the port on the rear of the cylinder head.
The port connects the EGR valve to the exhaust port
of rear cylinder. Also, check for blockage in the EGR
valve back-pressure tube (to transducer).

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Last edited by 95trep3.3; 02-25-2011 at 10:47 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95trep3.3 View Post
From the FSM. (edit I forgot you have a 3.5)

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM
TESTING—3.5L ENGINE
WARNING: APPLY PARKING BRAKE AND/OR
BLOCK WHEELS BEFORE PERFORMING EGR SYSTEM
TEST.
A failed or malfunctioning EGR system could cause
engine spark knock, and possibly sags or hesitation,
rough idle, and stall the engine. To ensure proper operation
of the EGR system, all passages and moving
parts must be free of deposits that could cause plugging
or sticking. Ensure that the system hoses does
not leak. Replace leaking components.
Inspect hose connections between intake manifold,
EGR solenoid and transducer, and the EGR valve.
Replace hardened, cracked, or damaged hoses. Replace
faulty hoses.
TESTING ELECTRONIC EGR TRANSDUCER
SOLENOID—3.5L ENGINE
(1) Ensure manifold vacuum flows to the electronic
EGR transducer.
Use the DRB scan tool’s Actuators screen to test
the solenoid on the electronic EGR transducer. Refer
to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Manual.
(2) Disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the
transducer. Tee a vacuum gauge between the transducer
and hose. Start the vehicle. There should be a
minimum of 15 inches of vacuum supplied to the solenoid.
If vacuum is low, check for kinked or twisted
hoses and leaking hoses or hose connections.
(3) Actuate the solenoid using the DRB scan tool.
The solenoid should click when turned on and off. As
the solenoid cycles, it should shut vacuum to the
transducer on and off. Replace the EGR valve and
transducer/solenoid if the solenoid operates incorrectly.
If the solenoid operates correctly, test the
transducer.

TESTING EGR TRANSDUCER—3.5L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose and back-pressure
hose from the transducer. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the solenoid.
(2) Plug the transducer output port (Fig. 3).
(3) Apply 1 to 2 PSI of air pressure to the transducer
back-pressure port. Use a hand held air pump
or compressed air regulated to 2 PSI.
(4) Apply a minimum of 12 inches of vacuum to
the other side of the transducer. Replace the EGR
valve and transducer/solenoid if the transducer does
not momentarily hold vacuum then slowly bleed off.

TESTING EGR VALVE—3.5L ENGINE
(1) Remove the EGR valve from the engine. Refer
to EGR System Service.
(2) While applying at least 15 inches of vacuum to
the EGR valve diaphragm, check for movement of the
valve stem.
² If the stem does not move, replace the EGR valve
and transducer/solenoid as an assembly.
² If the stem moves approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch),
maintain vacuum supply to diaphragm. The valve
should remain open for approximately 30 seconds or
more. If the valve leaks, replace the EGR valve and
transducer/solenoid.
(3) If the EGR valve operates correctly, check for
blockage in the port on the rear of the cylinder head.
The port connects the EGR valve to the exhaust port
of rear cylinder. Also, check for blockage in the EGR
valve back-pressure tube (to transducer).
i hate to tell ya this cause i feel really stupid ... but i have no idea what any these are .... all i kno is the piece that has all the vac lines connected to .... idk anything else or how to apply 12 in of vac to anything

i feel really really stupid cause i kno cars but if i had to like break it down.... i wouldnt kno what the parts are until someone told me
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 11:19 PM
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i would imagine this solenoid would be part of the egr valve. so more than likely youll probably need a new EGR valve
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 10:00 AM
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a solenoid is an electrical part which usually make something move when a voltage is supplied to it, this could be a plunger or in the case of an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) a valve. Basically, the EGR lets exhaust (recirculates) into the intake manifold to the combustion chamber to reduce emissions. You could see that this valve is subject to nasty conditions, like rich exhaust, heat etc. Therefore, the valve can get stuck and your car will run like crap. I havent had a problem with the EGR on my trep, but I owned a 90 GM 2.0l years back and a simply check was to place your fingers under the valve while the engine was cool and running, you should be able to push the valve up and stall the engine. I dont know if this works for the trep..? Anyway, get to the yard and pull an EGR whole assembly, solenoid and valve and youll be good 2 go.

Good luck
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mass04 View Post
a solenoid is an electrical part which usually make something move when a voltage is supplied to it, this could be a plunger or in the case of an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) a valve. Basically, the EGR lets exhaust (recirculates) into the intake manifold to the combustion chamber to reduce emissions. You could see that this valve is subject to nasty conditions, like rich exhaust, heat etc. Therefore, the valve can get stuck and your car will run like crap. I havent had a problem with the EGR on my trep, but I owned a 90 GM 2.0l years back and a simply check was to place your fingers under the valve while the engine was cool and running, you should be able to push the valve up and stall the engine. I dont know if this works for the trep..? Anyway, get to the yard and pull an EGR whole assembly, solenoid and valve and youll be good 2 go.

Good luck
thanks man ... imma have to get over there one day.... its bees so busy for me lately... so i never have time for anything............ anyone got pics on where all the equiptment is at???
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