Steering rack replacement. - Page 3 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #31 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 03:25 PM
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I'm stumped. I couldn't move the rack far enough forward to get it clear of the firewall. Did you remove anything else? I tried to pull the plastic boot like deal thats around the end of the column but couldn't see how to remove it. For the record, this was the 97 3.3L car
Now that I'm thinking about it more I remember it was a pain to clear the brake booster/master. I'm pretty sure both tie rods were out of the car, I also removed the cowl and wiper assy, I dont remember pulling anything else.
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post #32 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 03:45 PM
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Now that I'm thinking about it more I remember it was a pain to clear the brake booster/master. I'm pretty sure both tie rods were out of the car, I also removed the cowl and wiper assy, I dont remember pulling anything else.
OK, not sure I had the tie rods completely out of the car, next time I do the job I'll see if it makes a difference. Not sure if it would be different for a 3.3 vs. a 3.5 but it could depending on clearance between the back of the block and the firewall.
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post #33 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 10:22 PM
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one i did was on a 3.5 car. just make sure the rack is turned partly toward the right. the boot on the left will bend enough to clear the booster. well, that is how i did it.
the boot covers the rack shaft which would be exposed on a full left turn.
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post #34 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 07:05 PM
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This is how I pulled the pin on mine. Took a piece of threaded rod put a acorn nut on the end (real tight) then ground the nut down so it would pass thru the hole that the pin is in. Put the rod thru the roll pin took a small piece of tubing ,put over the rod where it came out of the roll pin on the other side of the yoke ,stuck a washer on it then 2 nuts and tightened the nuts and pulled the pin out. Spray it with some lube and tighten the nuts slowly. I used 2 nuts because 1 nut may strip if the pin hangs up. Putting the pin back in was not a problem,getting the wheel straight on a car that locks the wheel at 180 degrees is a little challenging though.

Last edited by way up north; 02-18-2012 at 07:15 PM.
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post #35 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well now that i have finally be given the time to do this job i have gotten the old rack out in about two hours with a little help from my bro but as far as putting the new one in i think i will do it tomorrow thanks to my back hurting like hell.

On a very cool note though my tool i made to remove the roll pin worked better than i ever expected took all of about 5 seconds to run it out of there on the lowest setting of the air chisel.
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post #36 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a few pics just for the hell of it lol.

Old leaky rack.


This will never steer right lol.


What the knuckle looks like with no rack.


And where the rack came out of which was much easier than screwing around removing the shift cable from the trans.
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post #37 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 05:32 PM
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165$.....good price..i'll have to remember that website when its my time.

1994 Eagle Vision
2001 Trep 2.7L
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post #38 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:51 PM
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Congrats Ty!
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post #39 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well the new rack is in with new fluid and bled and working great.

Also my air hammer roll pin tool also puts the pin back in in seconds.
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post #40 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 04:46 PM
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Cool, glad to hear you got it done.... I was almost thinking I was gonna have to come down there.

Nice pin tool solution.. I just used a standard punch.
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post #41 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Congrats Ty!
Thanks Cean

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Cool, glad to hear you got it done.... I was almost thinking I was gonna have to come down there.

Nice pin tool solution.. I just used a standard punch.
Yeah thanks again Ed i know this has been a long time coming but time and money just never seem to go together lol.

I was just shocked as was my bro at how quick and easy this tool made removing and installing the pin.

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post #42 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 08:12 PM
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Just wanted to say congrats on the rack replacement. I have a feeling it will be my next major repair. Helpful mechanic noted that mine is seeping fluid, and the bolts were super loose! Of course he tightened them and the steering is much tighter but it's still way off. The idiots at the alignment shop screwed up and HM confirmed I missed the boat by replacing the bushings. He told me that a whole rack can be had for about $150 and 2 hours of labor, making it a $250 repair. Which is still less than I paid in June.

Did you have to pay to ship the core back to them and how much is it to ship that rack?
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post #43 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 12:22 PM
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I should really do the rack on my daughters car. So you may have to start a tool rental program

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Thanks Cean



I was just shocked as was my bro at how quick and easy this tool made removing and installing the pin.

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post #44 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 05:25 PM
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Steering shaft boot removal

Hi,
I was wondering how do you get the boot of the coupling? I have tried and it looks like I will have to cut it....didn't really want to though. Will be grateful for any advice....
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post #45 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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I just cut it off.
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