Coolant replacement on a 93' Chrysler Vision 3.5 - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 06:23 PM
Intrepid Modder
 
94Beater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 598
Feedback: 0 / 0%
         
These block drain plugs are also a question of mine in my new 3.3 water pump thread I just made. The manual states to drain first from the radiator, then from the cylinder block plugs behind the exhaust manifolds. It is rather vague about it.
94Beater is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 06:31 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
There are no block drain plugs that I can find on either 3.3 or 3.5 blocks.

The only plugs I can find are frost plugs.
cdmccul is offline  
post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: France
Posts: 23
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
Well, here is how I always do these sorts of things...

I drain the coolant from the radiator at the drain plug.

I then service the engine however it is needed (thermostat, lower intake manifold, heater core, radiator, hoses, etc), and then button it all back up.

I then install a flushing tee.



I install it in the hose going to the heater core. I generally install it into the driver's side hose on the Intrepid, because you can get to it to install the hose or install the cap.

I leave the fill cap off the pressure tank, and leave the drain plug open too. I then turn on the water for the hose and then start the car. I let it run till the engine is fully warmed up and the thermostat opens, then run it a bit longer. When the water runs clear out the openings, I shut the engine off and then quickly turn the water off too.

Let the system drain as much as possible, and then install the radiator drain plug.

THEN you fill the engine with 1/2 of the total capacity of the cooling system with 100% full strength antifreeze. So, if the system is a total of 1.5 gallons, I pour in .75 gallons of antifreeze. If the system is 3 gallons, I pour in 1.5 gallons of antifreeze.

In the LH cars, I pour in 1 gallon of antifreeze. I ONLY run Zerex G-05 coolant - but any antifreeze that fits the G-05 standard is acceptable. I do not run universal fluids, I do NOT run DexCool.



You should be able to pour in just about all of the coolant, if not all of it. If you can't get at least 75% of the gallon of coolant into the car, I'm guessing you have a blockage.

After adding this much full strength antifreeze, I then attach a small clear vinyl hose to the bleeder valve, and run the other end of the hose down into the now hopefully empty antifreeze jug. I then add plain water to the overflow tank and watch the fluid flowing through the vinyl hose. I pour water into the coolant tank a little at a time, till I have a reasonable amount of liquid in the jug with the hose in it, then swap jugs and pour the recovered fluid into the coolant tank. I continue to alternate jugs till the fluid coming out of the hose has no bubbles in it. Generally, this doesn't take very long at all.

Every so often I have had to coax the bleed to start, and I've done that by opening the valve, squeezing the upper radiator hose, then closing (or blocking with my finger) the bleed valve and letting go of the hose - then do that again a few times till you end up pumping coolant out of the valve. But it should flow fine after that.
Wow, many thanks for this very useful how-to!

In France, we don't have Zerex coolant... So I bought an ethylene glycol based coolant, it is an Elf -35░C (I'm not sure Elf is a brand known in the USA...). Do you think it is bad for my 3.5?

Quote:
I have had to coax the bleed to start
I'm sorry, but I don't understand the meaning of this sentence! (I'm not very good in english...)

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTXKen View Post
What a great looking Vision, I imagine it is huge compared to most cars in France and very roomy. From the pictures the headlamp assembly looks very different than the US counterpart. There is only a single drain valve on my Vision located on the passenger side of the radiator, its awkward to get to and is accessed from the backside of the radiator. My car happens to be on stands at this very moment and I just confirmed that there are no block drains, at least on my US version of the car. I'm curious, what manual are you using?
Thank you!
It is indeed a very very big car in France, bigger than others luxury cars we have like Mercedes S Class, BMW 7 series or Audi A8 for example. But obviously not as luxurious !
In France, a Vision is called a Monster...
I am using the official Chrysler workshop manual, that I've found In French, I think it's almost a unique piece!




Have a look at the (3) line :" Deposer les bouchons de vidange du bloc cylindre placÚs derriere chaque collecteur d'echappement" means drain the block by removing the drain plugs located behind each exhaust manifold.

So, when I will refill the system by the coolant presure tank, I just have to open the bleeder valve until coolant goes out, then I close it, I squeeze the upper radiator hose, I re-open it, etc, until there are no more air going out through the bleeder ? Then I fill the tank until the level reaches the 'cold fill line', and I'm done?
Can I start the car with the tank cap off, or did I have to put it on the tank before I start? How to be sure that there are no more air bubbles in the system?

Many thanks guys!

Last edited by CylXP; 11-20-2012 at 09:36 AM.
CylXP is offline  
post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 10:06 AM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
I don't run it with the cap off - and I never take the cap off when hot.

You make sure there are no bubbles just by doing the bleed procedure.

If you find that after running the engine you hear air bubbles behind the dash (in the heater core) or you find that the engine wants to boil over (but not overheating), you could have more air bubbles that need bled).

Quote:
I have had to coax the bleed to start
"coax" the way I meant it is to "convince" or "Help along". So, "I have had to help the process along to make the bleeding start some times."

The Elf brand fluid is not known here. It should be o.k. for your car, but it is not a long life fluid. You don't want to run DexCool at all. G-05 is a HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) Coolant. I would suggest maybe trying to find Mercedes Benz coolant.
cdmccul is offline  
post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: France
Posts: 23
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
I don't run it with the cap off - and I never take the cap off when hot.

You make sure there are no bubbles just by doing the bleed procedure.

If you find that after running the engine you hear air bubbles behind the dash (in the heater core) or you find that the engine wants to boil over (but not overheating), you could have more air bubbles that need bled).
Ok.



Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
"coax" the way I meant it is to "convince" or "Help along". So, "I have had to help the process along to make the bleeding start some times."

The Elf brand fluid is not known here. It should be o.k. for your car, but it is not a long life fluid. You don't want to run DexCool at all. G-05 is a HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) Coolant. I would suggest maybe trying to find Mercedes Benz coolant.
Indeed, it is not a longlife coolant. That's not a big deal for me, I've planed to change the coolant every 2 years or so.
Anyway, Dexcool does not exist in France !

Quote:
So, when I will refill the system by the coolant presure tank, I just have to open the bleeder valve until coolant goes out, then I close it, I squeeze the upper radiator hose, I re-open it, etc, until there are no more air going out through the bleeder ? Then I fill the tank until the level reaches the 'cold fill line', and I'm done?
Could you please tell me if it seems OK for you?

Today, the radiator went out, in order to be cleaned :







I have also a photo of the headlight, for those who could be interested :

Last edited by CylXP; 11-20-2012 at 03:59 PM.
CylXP is offline  
post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 05:33 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Thanks for the picture of the headlight - what is the small square connector?

As for the block drains - YES - they do exist... They are located immediately above the motor mounts - I don't know that I could get a wrench on them with out removing the exhaust manifolds though. They are very tight to the motor mounts.
cdmccul is offline  
post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: France
Posts: 23
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
Thanks for the picture of the headlight - what is the small square connector?
You're welcome.
To be honnest, I don't know what is the small conector. Tomorrow, I'll try to investigate on it !

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
As for the block drains - YES - they do exist... They are located immediately above the motor mounts - I don't know that I could get a wrench on them with out removing the exhaust manifolds though. They are very tight to the motor mounts.
What a great news !
Have you please a photo where we can see those plugs? It could be easier to locate it.
Did I have to remove something to get access to those plugs?
CylXP is offline  
post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 05:45 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
A picture will be hard to get, but I'll do what I can. The engine I found it on is out of the car and sitting on the ground.
cdmccul is offline  
post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: France
Posts: 23
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
And do you think those plugs would be accessible with the engine in the car? And do we have to remove something to gain access.to those plugs?
CylXP is offline  
post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:12 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
I would say don't worry about the plugs - getting to them will involve removing the motor mount heat shields at a minimum, and I really don't see anything gained by doing so. Flush from above using a Tee.

I'll try to get pictures though for you.
cdmccul is offline  
post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:23 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
GTXKen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 1,925
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
Thanks for the picture of the headlight - what is the small square connector?

As for the block drains - YES - they do exist... They are located immediately above the motor mounts - I don't know that I could get a wrench on them with out removing the exhaust manifolds though. They are very tight to the motor mounts.
Really? I stand corrected. Are they just hex plugs, not hex keys or pet cocks?

I will have to take another look tomorrow.
GTXKen is offline  
post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:29 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.


 
MrBigE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pickerington OH
Posts: 18,564
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
From Clayton's old thread...



He had painted the block in the picture above. You can see the passenger-side freeze plugs on the 1st Gen 3.5 engine.

Here's a picture showing a 'bad' freeze plug:
MrBigE is offline  
post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:30 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
They are hex head plugs - not sockets. I think larger than 14mm, but I'll measure that when I get pictures. Won't be able to get pictures till Thursday I think.
cdmccul is offline  
post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:30 PM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
cdmccul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Garrison, ND
Posts: 15,412
Feedback: 18 / 100%
                     
Yup, that's them.

With the heat shield on the motor mount, it is nearly occluded.
cdmccul is offline  
post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: France
Posts: 23
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Thank you guys!

On the red block we can see above, the drain plug is visible or not? Is this the plug at the bottom of the middle anti-freeze ?

By the way, what is the goal of those freeze plugs?

Last edited by CylXP; 11-21-2012 at 04:32 AM.
CylXP is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome