Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help! - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 12:25 PM
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Not saying this is your issue. Just food for thought.

I helped a young guy with his car (don't remember the make/model). He asked me if I knew why is wasn't shifting. The engine also was running really fast at idle too. I started searching on the net for common shifting issues with his car. I couldn't find much.

Well I searched for a while on the net and we messaged back and forth. After a while, I don't know if I asked or he told me that he replaced the starter and this is when the shifting issues started. I went over to his place (this was the first time I had seen the car) and saw the starter he had pulled out. One of the terminal studs had been broken off leading me to wonder how ham fisted he had been R&R the starter. I asked him if he could take the starter out again. After he got it out, I found that a wiring harness had been damaged to the point that wires had been severed! To his credit, the starter was in a very ridiculous and hard to reach location. Also, he didn't have much experience working on cars.

After seeing the damaged wiring, I knew I had found his problem. He fixed the wires and the problem was solved

Perhaps another set of eyes would be beneficial here for you. We all get stuck in paradigms and it may take other eyes to get past them.

I'm not saying that you have damaged wiring.
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTXKen View Post
Check the vacuum lines again. Specifically the two that are on the passenger side just in front of the air intake tube you removed. Then check all the others, also check the rubber elbows on the vacuum lines at the throttle body's, I have seen those collapse from age and the plastic ones get brittle after 16 years.

The trickle chargers work well but get a quality unit. I have 2, both are Schumacher units. The alternator will charge the battery slowly at idle but a 20 mile drive should charge it pretty well.
This. Also, if you're using a really cheap no name gas station, find a decent one. You could have water in your gas, or or a bad air/fuel ratio. What you haven't concluded is that the car seems to be stalling when it's not getting gas, but that could very well be the issue. When you are at a stop sign, put it into neutral, feed it gas, and then go, see if it doesn't stall.
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Been out of town since 2-13 and just returned today. I am hopeful I have solved the problem. Just above the right tie rod their are two bundles of wires one of which was in black flexible conduit and the other was not wrapped or had slid down exposing the wires. When I replaced the tie rod bushing and took loose the black plastic pipe that goes from the air filter to the trottle body the two bundles got pushed down and the one without the conduit was rubbing on the tie rod. I think it was shorting out causing the car to stall without warning. I wrapped it with conduit also and zip tied it up so it no longer rubs on the tie rod. I read something about a recall on this. I will know for sure if this fixed it in a few days.
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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 09:22 PM
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Been out of town since 2-13 and just returned today. I am hopeful I have solved the problem. Just above the right tie rod their are two bundles of wires one of which was in black flexible conduit and the other was not wrapped or had slid down exposing the wires. When I replaced the tie rod bushing and took loose the black plastic pipe that goes from the air filter to the trottle body the two bundles got pushed down and the one without the conduit was rubbing on the tie rod. I think it was shorting out causing the car to stall without warning. I wrapped it with conduit also and zip tied it up so it no longer rubs on the tie rod. I read something about a recall on this. I will know for sure if this fixed it in a few days.
Wouldn't that be cool if that was the problem! I do believe you found it! It involves turning and stopping suddenly! Also it unfortunately something you did.
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Problem came back today when I drove over speed bumps and now the cruise control light comes. After searching this forum again now knowing the cruise control light comes on I decided to replace the cam and crankshaft sensors. Just returned from driving over speed bumps and no stalls and/or curise control light. Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.

Last edited by qaf88vze; 02-17-2013 at 07:37 PM.
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 08:39 PM
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Problem came back today when I drove over speed bumps and now the cruise control light comes. After searching this forum again now knowing the cruise control light comes on I decided to replace the cam and crankshaft sensors. Just returned from driving over speed bumps and no stalls and/or curise control light. Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.
So, was the wiring the issue or the sensors? Probably a little of both? The cruise control light coming on is new right?
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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 09:24 PM
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Re: Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help!

It was your crank sensor most likely. Don't throw your old ones away, one of them may still be good. I would actually put the original cam sensor back in and test again.
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 09:39 PM
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It was your crank sensor most likely. Don't throw your old ones away, one of them may still be good. I would actually put the original cam sensor back in and test again.
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Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.
Would it be worth his time to even test it?
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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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Paper spacer was gone on the end of old cam sensor. I felt price for both sensors was reasonable plus comes with lifetime warranty so I just did both. Cam sensor was easy to install. Crank sensor was more challenging since was on bottom and difficult to reach on 3.5. I used a swivel and extension to get to it and removed the wheel and rubber flap for easier access. Was messy too as I have an oil leak. I did notice that the bolt on crank sensor was only finger tight and I have never replace it since owning the car since 01 with 20Kmiles. It seem like every time I work on this car its cold as hell outside! My propane Mr. Heater came in handy. I don't see many first generations left on the road here in my area.

Last edited by qaf88vze; 02-18-2013 at 05:18 AM.
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 09:21 AM
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Re: Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help!

IMO, yes... But as long as it is running, that's all that maters I'm the end.

Congrats!
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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 06:46 PM
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glad you fixed the problem. I sure learned something from this example.

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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 09:06 PM
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Paper spacer was gone on the end of old cam sensor. I felt price for both sensors was reasonable plus comes with lifetime warranty so I just did both. Cam sensor was easy to install. Crank sensor was more challenging since was on bottom and difficult to reach on 3.5. I used a swivel and extension to get to it and removed the wheel and rubber flap for easier access. Was messy too as I have an oil leak. I did notice that the bolt on crank sensor was only finger tight and I have never replace it since owning the car since 01 with 20Kmiles. It seem like every time I work on this car its cold as hell outside! My propane Mr. Heater came in handy. I don't see many first generations left on the road here in my area.
Anyone have an idea of what roll the paper spacer does?

Lets hope this is the end of this problem for the OP!
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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 11:34 PM
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The paper spacer is there to give you the proper depth. You take a new sensor with the paper spacer installed, put it into the hole, and hold down gently with your hand while you tighten the bolt. Then, when the engine is running, the paper spacer is ripped off and the sensor stays at the right depth.

I've re-used sensors with out the spacer - I just install it till it bottoms, and pull back out about what I feel the thickness of some construction paper is, and tighten the bolt.
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Its been two days and the car is driving without any stalling issues so I'm hopeful its fixed. I washed it yesterday and gave it a coat of wax and its looks great. It appears to run better than it did before. Thanks for the forum and the replies from others. I have saved lots of money, kept my car running, and learned a great deal about working on cars.
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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 04:50 PM
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Great!
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