Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help! - Page 3 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 06:40 PM
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Great!
Great to hear! Way to stick with it!
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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Stalling is back and problem has gotten much worse. Car stalling now all the time while coming to a quick stop. Occurs 5-10 minutes after warming up. Starts back up immediately. Idles ok. I have replaced cam and crank sensors and iac and inspected the vaccuum hoses in including brake booster hose and brake booster check valve. Unable to drive car due to safety and is currently parked in garage. I did receive a P0401 cel. Im thinking egr is stuck open. I have the 3.5 and it looks to be a bear to get to. Anyway to test egr or egr solenoid on car before tearing into it? Other thoughts? Im am considering taking it to a local independent shop to get a diagnosis.
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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 08:13 PM
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Stalling is back and problem has gotten much worse. Car stalling now all the time while coming to a quick stop. Occurs 5-10 minutes after warming up. Starts back up immediately. Idles ok. I have replaced cam and crank sensors and iac and inspected the vaccuum hoses in including brake booster hose and brake booster check valve. Unable to drive car due to safety and is currently parked in garage. I did receive a P0401 cel. Im thinking egr is stuck open. I have the 3.5 and it looks to be a bear to get to. Anyway to test egr or egr solenoid on car before tearing into it? Other thoughts? Im am considering taking it to a local independent shop to get a diagnosis.
Just when you think you've got it licked, it fights back!

This link might give you an answer. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1182553AAzdnRC They talk about the engine suddenly dying with possibly the ignition coil being at fault.
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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 03:57 PM
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The 3.5 EGR isn't too bad to do, once you remove the upper intake manifold. The upper intake comes off by removing the 4 little bolts and taking the cover off, then 4 vertical bolts, 2 bolts on the side, and then 4 bolts for the egr tubes... a few lines, a few plugs, and you can lift it up and remove one more line and one more plug - then remove the upper intake...

Then you can get to the EGR stuff pretty easy. I'd snag an EGR valve AND TRANSDUCER from a junk yard if you suspect that might be the issue, and if you can't get the EGR to move by hand once you have it apart.

Having the engine die 4-5 minutes after starting, and when slowing back down, DOES sound like EGR is sticking open. Worth a shot to repair it.
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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 06:25 PM
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The 3.5 EGR isn't too bad to do, once you remove the upper intake manifold. The upper intake comes off by removing the 4 little bolts and taking the cover off, then 4 vertical bolts, 2 bolts on the side, and then 4 bolts for the egr tubes... a few lines, a few plugs, and you can lift it up and remove one more line and one more plug - then remove the upper intake...

Then you can get to the EGR stuff pretty easy. I'd snag an EGR valve AND TRANSDUCER from a junk yard if you suspect that might be the issue, and if you can't get the EGR to move by hand once you have it apart.

Having the engine die 4-5 minutes after starting, and when slowing back down, DOES sound like EGR is sticking open. Worth a shot to repair it.
Not being familiar with this intake, is this a gasket that requires replacement?

The only problem I see with getting an EGR valve from a junk yard is, how do you know it's good? It could be the reason why the car is there.
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 12:57 AM
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Find a car that is there for other obvious reasons... like, wreck, trunk/interior fire, engine exploded, trans marked as bad on the glass, etc... The EGR is likely not the reason it is in there, but sure, it is possibly bad. Not much you can do besides install and test.

As for the gasket - as long as the gasket doesn't tear coming off, you can re-use it IMO - in the shop, we disassemble carbs and clean them, and re-use the gaskets all the time if they don't tear. But, the gasket set is only like $5.00. You can get just the upper, or you can get the upper, lower, and injector o-rings... and I want to say that the upper alone is actually more expensive.
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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. Took the car to a local independent shop to get scanned/diagnosed. I hope to know the results tomorrow and will update post.

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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 09:20 AM
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Re: Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help!

Best of luck with it... Will be good to know what they think it is.
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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Computer scan indicated the crank and/or cam sensor was bad. I just replaced both a little over a week ago from Advance and made by BWD. I retuned them for a refund. Mechanic replaced them with Carquest brand which I think are made by Wells. Hopefully car is fixed!
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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 10:07 PM
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Computer scan indicated the crank and/or cam sensor was bad. I just replaced both a little over a week ago from Advance and made by BWD. I retuned them for a refund. Mechanic replaced them with Carquest brand which I think are made by Wells. Hopefully car is fixed!
Keep us informed!
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post #41 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 03:17 AM
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Sometimes the Idle Air Control valve sticks...it will cause intermittent stalling when stopped or taking turns at low speeds.

The fix is to clean the idle orifice and the idle control pintle valve.

Cam/crank sensors are usually no-start or "limp home" problems. (in other words a very low rev limiter!)
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