Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help! - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Car stalls at intersection and turning-Help!

Car failed state inspection on Friday due to worn left inner tie rod bushing. Friday evening I replaced it.Car ran fine yesterday(Sat) without any problems. As I was turning right into driveway after church today the car stalled. Took it out again and it stalled at a stop light(I was not turning) and again as was making a right turn. (I almost hit another car and had to musle the steering wheel to complete turn) I am thinking something came disconnected or damaged when replaced inner tie rod bushing since its a tight space. Its a 97 3.5 Concorde. I took off the plastic air intake duct to get to bushing. Any ideas on what to look for?

Just to add, the first time it stalled as I turning into diriveway I accidently push cruise button on steering wheel. Not sure if this means anything.

Last edited by qaf88vze; 02-10-2013 at 01:34 PM.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 03:03 PM
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Car failed state inspection on Friday due to worn left inner tie rod bushing. Friday evening I replaced it.Car ran fine yesterday(Sat) without any problems. As I was turning right into driveway after church today the car stalled. Took it out again and it stalled at a stop light(I was not turning) and again as was making a right turn. (I almost hit another car and had to musle the steering wheel to complete turn) I am thinking something came disconnected or damaged when replaced inner tie rod bushing since its a tight space. Its a 97 3.5 Concorde. I took off the plastic air intake duct to get to bushing. Any ideas on what to look for?

Just to add, the first time it stalled as I turning into diriveway I accidently push cruise button on steering wheel. Not sure if this means anything.
I doubt pushing the cruse had any thing to do with it stalling.

How is the engine running in general? Smooth? Jerky/missing? Do you have a CEL on? Any chance you pulled a vacuum hose off? What is the history of maintenance on the car?

My guess on it stalling when you're turning is that the power steering pump may be loading the engine more at that point.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Engine is smooth,no cel. It appears all vacuum hoses are connected. Battery was run down last night due to leaving my gps plugged in. Car barely started but battery was very weak this morning and temp was around freezing. Could a low battery have caused it to stall at light or turn?

Are the plug in trickle/rapid chargers worth the investment of $30-50. How long do you need to run car for the alternator to charge it back to fully charged? I have coupon for a harbor freight charger for $27.

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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 06:35 PM
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Engine is smooth,no cel. It appears all vacuum hoses are connected. Battery was run down last night due to leaving my gps plugged in. Car barely started but battery was very weak this morning and temp was around freezing. Could a low battery have caused it to stall at light or turn?

Are the plug in trickle/rapid chargers worth the investment of $30-50. How long do you need to run car for the alternator to charge it back to fully charged? I have coupon for a harbor freight charger for $27.
Well, something changed after you put the part in. Look around where you were working.

I do believe those chargers should charge your battery. How old is your battery? As to running the car to charge the battery. Hard to say. Probably around an hour. (just a guess) I know it will not do it in 10 minutes. It's best on your alternator to charge it with a charger.
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 08:28 AM
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Check the vacuum lines again. Specifically the two that are on the passenger side just in front of the air intake tube you removed. Then check all the others, also check the rubber elbows on the vacuum lines at the throttle body's, I have seen those collapse from age and the plastic ones get brittle after 16 years.

The trickle chargers work well but get a quality unit. I have 2, both are Schumacher units. The alternator will charge the battery slowly at idle but a 20 mile drive should charge it pretty well.
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I let the car run for a while in driveway to charge up the battery yesterday. Car has not stalled anymore after driving it last night and today. I hope it was just that the battery had a low charge due to the gps being left plugged in overnight. I have always thought the battery was just for starting the car and once running it would not effect the performance. ????

Harbor freight also sellls a float charger for $6. Whats the difference in a tickle charger vs float charger?

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Car stalled at a stop light on the way to work this morning! ??????? Just to add, it seems to stall when I brake hard.

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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 12:31 PM
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Car stalled at a stop light on the way to work this morning! ??????? Just to add, it seems to stall when I brake hard.
Does it feel like the engine is shaking just before it stalls? The torque converter may not be unlocking so the engine could be directly connected to the wheels.

Have you tried two footing it? Keep a little, not much keep listening to the engine, pressure on the gas while pressing the brake? It could be an idle control issue.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Car stalled again on way home from work when braking and turning right. It does not idle rough or shake and gives no warming, shuts off suddenly, and its very intermittent. I have no CELs. I have been reading post about stalls which include fixes such as brake boosters, vacuum leaks, egr valve, torque converters, cam and crankshaft sensors. No sure which direction to go. Its dangerous when turning right because I loose power steering and could hit a car especially if wife is driving since you have to muscle it to finish the turn. Idle air control was replaced about 2 years ago and is clean of carbon.Just did the key dance and got 1255?

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 04:55 PM
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Check the vacuum lines again. Specifically the two that are on the passenger side just in front of the air intake tube you removed. Then check all the others, also check the rubber elbows on the vacuum lines at the throttle body's, I have seen those collapse from age and the plastic ones get brittle after 16 years.

The trickle chargers work well but get a quality unit. I have 2, both are Schumacher units. The alternator will charge the battery slowly at idle but a 20 mile drive should charge it pretty well.
Sounds like this guy knows what he's talking about. Have you checked these items?

Have you mentioned if it starts up right away or do you have to wait?
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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I have checked vacuum lines and and it starts up right away.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 05:14 PM
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I have checked vacuum lines and and it starts up right away.
Can you get it to die on command? (I'm thinking no) Braking hard while turning right? What are the condition of your motor mounts? Sometimes an engine can shift around because the mounts are bad and cause cracks in air ducting to open up. (just fishing here, someone is bound to get it right one of these times!)
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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I cannot get it to die on command. Mounts are ok. Its stalled this morning when stopping at a light. This afternoon I slowed down and was turning right when it quit. What are symptons of crank and cam sensors?
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 05:33 PM
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I cannot get it to die on command. Mounts are ok. Its stalled this morning when stopping at a light. This afternoon I slowed down and was turning right when it quit. What are symptoms of crank and cam sensors?
I believe it will run with a bad cam sensor but not with a bad crank sensor. They'd would probably set a code too.

How long have you owned this car? (sorry if you mentioned this before)

Thinking about this, it's probably ignition related because of the sudden or abrupt stalling.

If it was fuel, it probably would stumble and then stall.

You know, when you find this problem, it will probably be just a simple thing....(or so we can hope!)
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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Ive had car since 01. Thanks for the replies.
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