Starter motor reconditioning GUIDE
Dodge Intrepid 1996 V-6 cylinder 3.3 liter
copywrited by PSKi Enterprize 2007 at your own risk instructions
I was driving some friends around town when I noticed that my inTrepid got a case of the "It won't start when I turn the key syndrome". I tried oiling the keyhole, new key, and checking the wiring under the hood andd in the ignition coloumn but to no avalile. This is a bad starter, its a Denso unit made in japan I found , one with a common complaint and a seemingly easy inexpensive fix. Other members have stated that the starter due to its nature as a low use high heavy build nature should last forever, I took this to heart. My starter should still be intrinsicly be good !.
The common complaint about this denso starter was in the selenoid box were a couple of copper contacts simply wear out from use . This is a simple and inexpensive fix .
I was surprised how easy the Denso
starter are to do , if you can do your front rotors this is about the same.
To the Intrepid Lair !!
15 mm wrench and wrench set
link to plunger # 35
the right one is number 35
and costs about $10.00
The selenoid contact is about $5.00 more and has 2 parts
Cost me about $40.00 cnd + taxes and shipping
some bearing greease
some shop rags
To remove the starter you can do it from the top port side of the car.
You need to be flexible and handy with a couple of 15 mm wrench types large and small.
Turn only about a 1/4 turn on each try and take your time , you can not rush this job.
Unbolt the three bolts that hold the starter in and then pull it out a bit. Then take your wrench and loosen and remove the wires to the battery and ground. Try not to break the ground wires.
Then I just jiggled the unit out from under the manifold ,
not bad now lets see if I can get it back in there
chewed up contact inside solenoid box
screw driver pointing out bad contact
The plunger sits inside this box and slides back and forth when the key is turned completing contact.
the plunger has a ball bearing at the end of it along with a spring to force it back after ignition --
don't lose em and put them back in proper sequence.
The contacts are press fit with serations on the fully copper bolts . Take your time to remove em and then place them properly to insert them.
Starter Solenoid Contacts Replacement
You will have to remove the starter from the vehicle.
Once you have it off you need to take the end cover off the solenoid, its best to use a 8mm wrench or socket. , really normal
Once the cover is off you can take out the plunger and spring. The plunger will look like this
You can then see inside the solenoid to the starter solenoid contacts.
Its the wear on these combined with the burned surface on the plunger that is causing those clicks when you go to start the engine.
The starter solenoid contacts shown are both new (bright) and old (dark). If you look closely you will see on the old one there is an area worn away on the flat surface that contacts the plunger. Its this extra distance that the plunger need to travel that caused the intermittent connection and the clicks.
Clean up the plunger as shown.
You need to take off the starter solenoid contacts from the large bolts on the starter case and "tap off the old starter solenoid contacts" from the bolts. You install the new starter solenoid contacts the same way. You will see that there are some insulators protecting bolts from the metal case. Its important not to forget to reinstall these the way they came off.
When finishing the insulation of the contacts make sure that they are sitting flat in the starter. If they are not, (and in tightening the lock bolts they can twist) the starter will click again after a couple of days.
Slowly put them in the old starter after rubbing all the contacts with steel brush and coating them in white lithium
that stuff has a nice kinda fragrance to it , errr oh well
all the piece fit then I had to replace the starter --- awwwwwrg what a pain , it has very little room in there
firstly before placing the starter back into the hole in the transmission replace the ground wire etc, bolt them back on and make sure that the starter cover plate is properly oriented before the starter is in place.
had to contort quite a bit and wrench a 1/4 turn at a time
including many wrench twists to get the 3 bolts back in
did the center one first then the top and finally the bottom
make sure to reconect the ground strap, its there for a reason
I could not torqued em in with my torque wrench as it won't fit in the maniforld space
So good and tight ==> really tight will have to do
then once I cleared the engine bay I tried a re-start
after a while of crankin ( it's working!!!) she fired and ran
Notonly that but now after about half a year the starter has never failed to start the engine even thorough the -35 C really cold weather we have here. The starter is ine its just those little copper contacts that wear away all too fast.