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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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suspension diagram.

i tried doing a search but to no avail. i need a diagram of the suspension on a first gen trep. rep for anyone that can help me.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 01:32 PM
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These help?

Front:


Rear:
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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thank you so much you are a life saver.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 10:47 PM
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2011, 11:38 AM
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Question..I am trying to remove the rear spindle, i notice that the long bolt that goes through the control arms on the inner coupling. But on the spindle itself, does that bolt run all the way through both control arms, or is it a bolt on one side and a stud on the rear? Just asking because I can get a little bit of turn on the bolt head but the rear side isn't moving... I dont want to break it.

By control arm I mean lateral link as listed in the lower picture. I had to cut the pinch bolt, and Im trying to remove the entire assembly for drilling
Update, I took the mounting bolts for the rear crossmember down and was able to get the inner link out below the gas tank, going to shop to have drilled and heated.
Update..guy at my local mechanic shop is a master, he hand drilled the pinch bolt from either side and when we were done..the bolt fit through both sides like a glove, he drilled it exactly perfect. Beginning the task of putting it all back together, and feeling good about having taken the time to have it done correctly, he explained that you never want to heat a pich bolt clamp if its avoidable because it tempers the metal and makes it britte. He also said that Intrepids and taurus are the two worst for rear strut pinch bolts, people are always crying about this.

Last edited by Giskard80; 12-09-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-18-2011, 05:29 PM
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i have heated those castings dozens of times,never had an issue.i could never get it hot enough to cause a problem.
generally the bolt is the only thing that needs heat.worst thing is,heating the bolt and not getting it out-making it very difficult to drill out.i live in the salt belt,dealing with corroded and siezed bolts it commonplace.
funny,i did both rear struts on my 97 and both bolts came out,i didnt have oxy acetelyne to heat with.
just a good impact and a propane torch.rattling the casting with an air hammer and hot water works wonders too.
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