Code P0406 & EGR Valve - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
jmhoelzel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 24
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Code P0406 & EGR Valve

Greetings All!

My '01 2.7L Intrepid SE is firing off code "P0406." How easy is it to change the EGR valve? Thanks.

Last edited by jmhoelzel; 03-03-2008 at 09:27 PM.
jmhoelzel is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 09:32 PM
I hit shit with sticks!


 
Daytrepper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 34,289
Feedback: 20 / 100%
                     
Garage
Its not hard, your egr may just need cleaned. If you remove it and the tubes, there is probably crap built up in the tubes. A simple cleaning might resolve it.

EGR is on the passenger side rear of the engine; and there are two small tubes that connect from it to the upper plenum, and another tube that connects to the exhaust manifold.
Daytrepper is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
jmhoelzel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 24
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 32Intrepid View Post
Its not hard, your egr may just need cleaned. If you remove it and the tubes, there is probably crap built up in the tubes. A simple cleaning might resolve it.

EGR is on the passenger side rear of the engine; and there are two small tubes that connect from it to the upper plenum, and another tube that connects to the exhaust manifold.
Thanks!
jmhoelzel is offline  
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
jmhoelzel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 24
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhoelzel View Post
Greetings All!

My '01 2.7L Intrepid SE is firing off code "P0406." How easy is it to change the EGR valve? Thanks.

I looked at the service manual online here, and the only EGR replacement that is shown in the book is for the 3.5L. I took notice that this service manual is for the '02 model year. There's probably not much difference, but does anyone know of a link on here for a 2001 model year service manual? Thanks.
jmhoelzel is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 09:52 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
froggy81500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 4,388
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
No there isn't much difference at all. The 3.5 does not have a lower tube running to the exhaust manifold like the 2.7. The egr on the 3.5 gets its exhaust flow thru a port in the back of the cylinder head. My 2001 SE used to throw that code every now and again, but only within about 1/2 of taking off from a cold start, never hot. And usually within about 4 restarts, the CEL would go out. Eventually I unbolted the tube flange that mounts the upper tube to the valve and used a spray tip to spray penetrant inside the valve. After that, I never had a CEL for it again.

I stress use caution when trying to work on this. Those egr bolts break very easy. The upper ones in the plenum are not bad, I only took out a couple of them before I went the other way. There are two in the flange for the upper tube and I broke one of them trying to open it up. Soaking them with penetrating fluid for awhile before you start wrenching on it is HIGHLY advised. I would try that first, unbolt the flange, gently hold the tube out of the way enough to get a spray straw in there then soak the snot out of the inside of it. Be careful not to bend the tubing.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)
http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500
froggy81500 is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
jmhoelzel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 24
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by froggy81500 View Post
No there isn't much difference at all. The 3.5 does not have a lower tube running to the exhaust manifold like the 2.7. The egr on the 3.5 gets its exhaust flow thru a port in the back of the cylinder head. My 2001 SE used to throw that code every now and again, but only within about 1/2 of taking off from a cold start, never hot. And usually within about 4 restarts, the CEL would go out. Eventually I unbolted the tube flange that mounts the upper tube to the valve and used a spray tip to spray penetrant inside the valve. After that, I never had a CEL for it again.

I stress use caution when trying to work on this. Those egr bolts break very easy. The upper ones in the plenum are not bad, I only took out a couple of them before I went the other way. There are two in the flange for the upper tube and I broke one of them trying to open it up. Soaking them with penetrating fluid for awhile before you start wrenching on it is HIGHLY advised. I would try that first, unbolt the flange, gently hold the tube out of the way enough to get a spray straw in there then soak the snot out of the inside of it. Be careful not to bend the tubing.
Thanks for the advice!
jmhoelzel is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 07:15 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
froggy81500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 4,388
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Just to clarify, I am referring to the tube flanges at the egr valve. I didn't specify that earlier. If you remove the entire air intake from the throttle body elbow right to the air box, you will have decent amount of room to get at it. The bolt heads might be 10MM but I can't remember. I unbolted the two bolts for the top flange. The one bolt closer to the engine is the one I broke and be careful with that one because the bolt hole is not open at the bottom so upon tightening it you could bottom it out and break it off. The other bolt hole is open at the bottom. I got the one bolt out and sheared the head off the other. Once I had that free, the gasket was stuck to the valve so I left it alone. I pulled the flange up the tube and out of my way and carefully pushed the tube toward the driver's side enough to see into the valve just a little bit and soaked the snot out of the inside. I also sprayed some on the valve assembly that you'll be able to see thru the notches in the case, between the valve body and the solenoid part of it. Its shiny silver in the center and is probably the shaft of the valve pintle.

My thought was that maybe some carbon was hanging up the valve enough every now and again so that it wasn't completely closing, and giving the high position reading on the sensor. Also to note, if any part of the egr valve goes bad, you're looking at an entire new one. The valve, solenoid and position sensor are one complete unit.

The name's Chris but the step-kids call me something much worse!
Favorite Quote: "A man's got to know his limitations."-Clint Eastwood as "Dirty" Harry Callahan in Magnum Force (1973)
Second favorite quote: "Another day, another drama."-Me (2006)
Third favorite quote: "I live a boring life. Its everyone in it that makes it interesting."-Me (2006)
http://www.myspace.com/froggy81500
froggy81500 is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
jmhoelzel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 24
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by froggy81500 View Post
Just to clarify, I am referring to the tube flanges at the egr valve. I didn't specify that earlier. If you remove the entire air intake from the throttle body elbow right to the air box, you will have decent amount of room to get at it. The bolt heads might be 10MM but I can't remember. I unbolted the two bolts for the top flange. The one bolt closer to the engine is the one I broke and be careful with that one because the bolt hole is not open at the bottom so upon tightening it you could bottom it out and break it off. The other bolt hole is open at the bottom. I got the one bolt out and sheared the head off the other. Once I had that free, the gasket was stuck to the valve so I left it alone. I pulled the flange up the tube and out of my way and carefully pushed the tube toward the driver's side enough to see into the valve just a little bit and soaked the snot out of the inside. I also sprayed some on the valve assembly that you'll be able to see thru the notches in the case, between the valve body and the solenoid part of it. Its shiny silver in the center and is probably the shaft of the valve pintle.

My thought was that maybe some carbon was hanging up the valve enough every now and again so that it wasn't completely closing, and giving the high position reading on the sensor. Also to note, if any part of the egr valve goes bad, you're looking at an entire new one. The valve, solenoid and position sensor are one complete unit.
This looks like it could be a real PITA to replace. I checked prices on the 'net, and they're all over the place...from $90 to $130. Thanks again for the tips!
jmhoelzel is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
jmhoelzel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 24
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhoelzel View Post
This looks like it could be a real PITA to replace. I checked prices on the 'net, and they're all over the place...from $90 to $130. Thanks again for the tips!
Just for my own morbid curiosity, I checked the codes again, and the P0406 is now gone and has been replaced by P1684 (loss of battery within the past 50 starts). That is absolutely impossible due to the fact that the battery is original, and I haven't touched it!!! Maybe it's got something to do with all the dampness & rain we've been getting.
jmhoelzel is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 10:52 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
froggy81500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 4,388
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
When I would get the P0406, would also get the P1684, but the battery in my car had only been disconnected once in three years. I believe not only is it for loss of battery in the last 50 starts but also a "check code" that pops up everytime something else comes up. Kinda like with the OBD-I's they had a code that indicated it was the end of the stored codes. I think that is also what the P1684 is there for also. I just ignored it because I knew the battery had not been disconnected.
froggy81500 is offline  
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 12:45 AM
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 222
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Sort of off topic, but has anyone removed the 2.7 upper intake without removing the egr tube first? I needed to unbolt the upper intake to access the map sensor, and so I tried to remove the egr tubes just at the intake - I couldn't get them out, maybe there is a trick I don't know. Are you supposed to remove the egr upper section entirely? With the limited access and talk of the bolts shearing off, I'd rather not if I don't have to.
invaliddata is offline  
post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 05:36 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
froggy81500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 4,388
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
the top tube flange bolts in the plenum should come right out. I had three out of four out but one was attaching a bracket to it and I didn't want to get that far into it. As far as the tubes go, I had detached the passenger side's both bolts and I think the tube sticks into the plenum a little ways. Besides, why do you have to remove the plenum to get at the MAP sensor? I thought it was at the front of the plenum near the coolant bleeder?
froggy81500 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome