3.5 liter: Replacing timing belt - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-05-2008, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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3.5 liter: Replacing timing belt

I was wondering if anyone can give me some pointers on how to change out my timing belt on my 2004 3.5 liter V-6. I was reading a couple of other forums and they said to swap out your water pump while your in there. Is there anything else that I can replace while I have everything open? Any tips? About how long does it take? I try to do as much work myself so I can save some money and gain the experience. I appreciate any responses, thanks!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 06:35 AM
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Use search - check How-To's. But change the tensioner pulley. Hydraulic tensioner is optional - it costs almost a hundred dollars but seldom gives problems, so people often re-use the original with no problems. Might consider replacing the a.c. and alt/p.s. belts and their tensioner pulleys while you're at it if they heven't been done recently. Maybe radiator hoses too. Thermostat (lower front driver's side of engine). Antifreeze (G-05 only).

Advise using OEM parts - can do OK on pricing from the better on-line discount dealers. In fact www.mopardiscountparts has a sale going on thru the 10th. Can find the parts and order on their site. Won't find better prices.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 11-06-2008 at 06:39 AM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 07:40 AM
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Great advice PEVA

Here's mine. I just did mine. The removal of the tensioner galled the aluminum oil pump housing threads. I Helicoiled it and reinstalled the tensioner. I have no idea if this affected what occurred after that or not. However, my CLOYES tensioner, the new one, failed. The bolt snapped off in the oil pump. So now I have replaced the oil pump and am replaing the tensioner and timing belt again.

Be careful with the removal of the tensioner bolt. I replaced everything PEVA mentioned because you will have it all off the car. Also, a nice point ot remember is that then you take out the headlight bolts, the headlight swing out of the way enabling you to reach the fand housing bolts easier on the DS down low.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 08:34 AM
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Really and truly you can just replace the timing belt and water pump. Granted the radiator has to be removed but this will give you a chance to do a radiator flush. Just remember you will need a huge vice on hand to reset the timing belt tensioner.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 09:25 AM
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I compressed my hydraulic tensioner in a normal vice, it took me about 2 minutes to get it fully compressed. Nice and slow.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up! I do appreciate it!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCPMeta View Post
...Granted the radiator has to be removed but this will give you a chance to do a radiator flush...
If you get the right kind of damper pulley puller, you don't need to pull the radiator. Some auto parts stores have them to sell or rent. Not saying it's not a good idea to flush the radiator - just FYI.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Are there any web sites that I can go to see diagrams or illistrations on the steps to take on performing this work? Also when you guys are talkin about compressing the tensioner with the vice, do you mean vice grips or on a table vice?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 04:57 PM
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I took my floor jack, put the tensioner between it and the car, and jacked up on it a bit. Then, i waited...and I waited, and i jacked the jack up again. Then I waited, then the wife got impatient, then I jacked it up again and put the pin thru. One hint that I have is that once you get the pin compressed, and you install it. Check your timing, and check it again and again. If it's off a tooth or so, you can put the pin back into it, run out the bolts holding the tensioner in, don't take them out! You will find that you can turn the camshafts to line up the notches without doing the tensioner thing over and over. That's what I did. Also: How to install timing belt on a 3.5 Chrysler V-6 engine | eHow.com

ooo.. do i get rep points yet?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 05:09 PM
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Or, you can do it the right way, with no need to compress the tensioner, no need to try to realign the cams, or take out the rad.
send me a PM if you want the info on the proper way to do it - or Bill can tell you too probably..............
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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I went to Autozone last night to buy some parts and thier computer said, when doing a timing belt change that you need to change the oil pan gasket. Is this true? I dont know why you would have to even mess with the oil pand gasket, but I never done one so I dont know.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 06:49 PM
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nope. no need for that. If you decide to remove the harmonic balancer, rent the chrysler harmonic balancer puller from autozone. That worked well for me.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 10:22 PM
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You can get the puller at your local AdvanceAuto or what not on rental.....its specifically has the set-up for the Chrysler 2.7,3.2,3.5 with out having to pull the radiator...this will simplify things. Just have to pull the fans...top radiator hose and 1 trans line on top.
Save time and rent it. Her is a pic.



BEFORE you remove the belt or tensioner turn the crank till you line the pointers on the crank together and the line on the cam gears line up between the dots on the covers..lock them as follows

Just lock the cams in place before you remove the belt..here is a poor mans version.....Remove the cover bolt behind the cam gear... use a longer bolt and a piece of tubing/pipe or an old piston pin like i did. you can adjust it up snug against the gear and then tighten it down...simple.....( I saw this from TFC on a search before I did my first one..what a little trick)









Install the belt counterclockwise ..crank to right side cam gear under waterpump to left cam gear and under tensioner pulley. (as looking from front of vehicle)

You can get a quality timing kit from Gates...TCK295. Includes the Pulley assembly with the belt.

The factory belts were made by Gates.

I have done 2 of these in the last few months..one on a 2000 LHS and just yesterday for my 2000 R/T.

It will take you the afternoon or better your first time.
Its pretty simple....

You need the puller....

few metric sockets...7,8,10,13,15,18 mm

standard screw driver

bucket to catch anti-freeze

vise or press pre-set the hydr tensioner..and a small allenwrench to use for a pin.

Last edited by vpik76; 11-16-2008 at 10:37 PM.
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