2.7 to 3.5 swap - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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2.7 to 3.5 swap

My G2 has been in stored in the garage with a thrown rod for over 5 years. The body is in excellent shape and only has 80k on it. I've been trying for years to find any size junkyard engine for it, with no luck. I've decided to go ahead and purchase a remanufactured 3.5L and just get it over with. I'm going to do it myself since I have neither the additional funds nor the confidence in any local shop to do it for me. Before I hit the yards for the additional parts, I would like to buy that swap manual, but I can't find the link anymore.

1. Anyone have the link to purchase the manual?
2. Any recommendations as far as online companies to purchase the rebuilt motor from?
There are plenty of places here that offer them, but I really don't trust these guys anymore.
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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-26-2016, 11:26 PM
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Get in touch with Daytrepper. Dan is the author of the "manual" and still has them available I believe.

Be aware that Chrysler has discontinued some parts and they aren't available new at all.

Getting a replacement 2.7L rebuild is n o problem. But when doing a 2.7 to a 3.2/3.5 swap then the discontinued parts become a big issue.

Again...contact Dan and he'll let you know what you're looking at for a swap and what you need.
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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronbo View Post
Get in touch with Daytrepper. Dan is the author of the "manual" and still has them available I believe.

Be aware that Chrysler has discontinued some parts and they aren't available new at all.

Getting a replacement 2.7L rebuild is n o problem. But when doing a 2.7 to a 3.2/3.5 swap then the discontinued parts become a big issue.

Again...contact Dan and he'll let you know what you're looking at for a swap and what you need.
Thanks. I should be ok on the other parts. The yards here have everything except working engines.
Those they pull themselves and sell as salvage engine at reman engine prices.
I just want to be able to grab everything in one outing and I don't want to forget anything.
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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Based on a recommendation from a family member, I contacted "THE" local rebuilt motor shop for a quote. They wanted $3000 for a short block with a 1 year warranty. Not gonna happen.
In absence of decent pricing locally on a rebuilt motor, I'm looking at 2 options. Pick up a motor from the yard and just drop that in or order a rebuilt from an online retailer. I really don't have the free time to do my own rebuild. Unfortunately, I have no experience with any of these online companies nor does any one else I know. And I would prefer not to drop in anything that doesn't come with a 6 or 12 month warranty.
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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 07:13 PM
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300M Intrepid Concorde LHS LH Parts For Sale - Wanted - Trade
Craig from Ohio has a running engine for good money.....
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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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I found him. Sent him a message. Thanks, Firem.
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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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I made it almost thru the radiator assembly this morning, but ran into some resistance with the lines at the condenser. Sprayed them with a little WD40 and I'm letting it soak it for a bit.
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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 01:26 PM
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The swap itself is fairly easy. I may have some pictures in my build thread from when I did mine, I can't remember now if I ever put any swap pics in.

As Ronbo mentioned, get a hold of Daytrepper for the manual, I purchased mine thru him and I think it is only available in PDF format now.
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 03:02 PM
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where are you located? if in western Ohio or Michigan i might know where there is a used motor or 2.

just a thought. >>you might look for wrecked unit that might be low miles and still runnable (so you know the engine is good) you could swap things out. would give you all the extra parts, and a few other things you need then scrap/part the car out afterwards (if you want)

That's pretty much what i did with my 300m. mine donor happened to be a wrecked 03 Intrepid Police with a Jasper rebuilt Engine and a rebuilt transmission. Swapped the whole cradle out. in some respects it was much easier that way but you'll need a way to pick the car up off the cradle. Biggest issue with mine was swapping extra stuff between the 03 and my 2000. not hard just extra work.

> of course at 80000 miles your transmission is probably good and then the cradle swap isn't quite as advantageous.

make sure you do the inner tie rod ends while the engine is out.
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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DjGreggieP View Post
The swap itself is fairly easy. I may have some pictures in my build thread from when I did mine, I can't remember now if I ever put any swap pics in.

As Ronbo mentioned, get a hold of Daytrepper for the manual, I purchased mine thru him and I think it is only available in PDF format now.
Yep, I have Daytrepper's manual already. I'm printing out 4-5 pages at a time so that I don't have to take my tablet or laptop out to the garage.
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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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where are you located? if in western Ohio or Michigan i might know where there is a used motor or 2.

just a thought. >>you might look for wrecked unit that might be low miles and still runnable (so you know the engine is good) you could swap things out. would give you all the extra parts, and a few other things you need then scrap/part the car out afterwards (if you want)

That's pretty much what i did with my 300m. mine donor happened to be a wrecked 03 Intrepid Police with a Jasper rebuilt Engine and a rebuilt transmission. Swapped the whole cradle out. in some respects it was much easier that way but you'll need a way to pick the car up off the cradle. Biggest issue with mine was swapping extra stuff between the 03 and my 2000. not hard just extra work.

> of course at 80000 miles your transmission is probably good and then the cradle swap isn't quite as advantageous.

make sure you do the inner tie rod ends while the engine is out.
I'm in SE Michigan. I found a motor and trans cheap in Central Ohio, but I had to pass on it because the owner needed me to pull it myself. Like you said, there should be plenty of life left on my tranny anyway, though. I can get a 3.5L motor delivered to my door for about $1000, but up until I get the 2.7 out I'm still looking out for a better deal.
If you do know of anything available in Mich or Ohio, I'm all ears.

I've got to do the tie rods, front brakes, the big 3 and a couple of other things once the motor is out. I had to push it into the garage during the last snowstorm and I scratched the bumpers all to hell with the front of my truck. So I'm going to have to repaint those pieces and I'm thinking about adding the police push bar and trailer hitch receiver.
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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty much done with the top side for now and moving on to the steps underneath with the starter and engine to trans bolts. Unfortunately, I didn't raise the car high enough for my liking. I'll have to go up a few more inches on the jackstands for my comfort. I"ll get back to it tomorrow morning, I guess.
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post #13 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Got the motor out over the weekend and the 3.5 is scheduled for delivery tomorrow.
I'm about to modify the pass side downpipe, but I'm having a bit of trouble getting it out.
Should I be disconnecting it A.) at the resonator or B.) at that point about halfway down the downpipe?
I've unbolted the band clamp at the resonator but it won't really budge. That midway point however is awfully loose by comparison. Is it going to matter one way or the other? Is one of these points going to be more difficult than the other in terms of putting it back together?

***I know the clamp is welded on. I'm not trying to remove it, just twist it loose.***

Last edited by lukasjames; 03-16-2016 at 01:09 PM.
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post #14 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 04:10 PM
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band clamps can sometimes take a little prying out on from the sides to get them to release.
that midway point you talk of is probably the flex joint and should be left alone. you'll probably never get it packed together properly to seal again.
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post #15 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hrmwrm View Post
band clamps can sometimes take a little prying out on from the sides to get them to release.
that midway point you talk of is probably the flex joint and should be left alone. you'll probably never get it packed together properly to seal again.
ok, thanks. I'm going to take another shot at it tonight with the torch and a strap wrench.
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