2.7 to 3.2 swap, evap not monitored - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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2.7 to 3.2 swap, evap not monitored

Finished swap last week. Worked out MAP, LDP and TPC issues for a emissions. Then test drove the 2001 intrepid ( that now has a 3.2 from a junked 98 Concorde. Rebuilt engine) and got stranded 10 miles out. Code was something like 0320... Anyway, it finally cranked and after 3 stalls I get home. Get on rockauto n order cam n crankshaft sensors. Disconnected battery and changed out sensors. Put 50 miles of half on hihhway n half on city traffic. Went to smog cat for registration. Huge issue with smog because I swapped engines. End up at the "DMV Emissions Lab". They are concerned I did this to the car and after my lengthy explanation and showing them the FSM they agree it is probably OK. They put car on stands and 5 techs spend one entire hour looking for engine number on block even though I had pics. ( good thing I washed engine and thoroughly rebuilt it and it was clean so they could read number on block above Tran housing) all good except I disconnected battery for sensor change and now EVAP shows ,Not Monitored. Took car for 60 miles half on highway at 60 and half on city traffic, as this was the instruction the dealership gave the DMV technicians. I have the smog check certificate from the day before but nowt all I lack to get cleared for platesis this monitor to set. I have not codes in the system none with my scanner nor with the key dance, except for battery disconnected in last 50 starts. Sitting here at DMV looking through Haynes manual n search ing web to see what I can do so I do not go home empty again and have to wait till next Monday
Anyone? How do I get the evap to show as being monitored. Car runs great be the way.
Thanks in advance..... Heeeeelp me gearheads.!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 08:15 PM
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From '98 thru '02, there were 3 different purge systems, each with differences in their vacuum lines, wiring, and PCM programming. I ran into the first two systems last year when I transplanted my '99 engine into my '98 car (that lost its 3.2). You are mixing those same two purge systems, but in the opposite direction from what I did.

I'm not sure if wrapping your head around the following will turn up a clue as to what the problem is and how to resolve it:

Take a look at post no. 46 here: 2002 Chrysler Concorde engine swap gone baf
and post nos. 1-12 (including vacuum line photos) here: Cruise Control Vacuum Lines 3.5L

Did you keep the 2001 PCM in the 2001 car with the '98 engine? The '98 car and engine would have had pre-LDP system and the elbow at the cruise control vacuum connection. Whether your 2001 car and engine had a tee or elbow at that vacuum connection would tell us if it had the LDP or NVLD. From your post, apparently you did determine that you had/have LDP. That would mean a tee at that vacuum port. (I did the opposite, transferring an LDP engine into a pre-LDP car.)

I don't know what may be missing from the story that may be causing your problem. I would think that (1) LDP 2001 car with (2) 2001 PCM, and (3) tee at the cruise control vacuum port transferred to the '98 engine (in place of it's previous elbow) would make everything copacetic.

Hopefully I've triggered some clues for you.

'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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So the issue is not that I can t figure out the line paths. In fact daytrepper helped me with the last line that had no where to go. The 2?01 intrepid has indeed 3 lines from fuel tank to engine. 1 to the fuel pump rail, one to the canister at the front right rear of head lite and frpm canister goes back to the top of throttle body,,,, and the 3rd vacuum lines, per daytrepper, said to tee it off to the cruise lines. I already had a tee there, cruise to plenum with tee to the underside of power dist panel
I added another tee to incorporate the last line from the fuel tank. Now my cruise does not function, put that is for another day.
My issue is that after spending 3 days dealing with LDP code n MAP n other gremlins, I finally thought u got everything good, went for test drive n got stranded. After intermittent stalls I got home but the crankshaft sensor code w stall symptoms had me order a crank n cam sensors. I disconnected batt n that cured my stall issue but

I guess I need "drive cycles' to get the EVAP system to indicate monitoring by the computer at the DMV. I finally was able to get the engine block number to show the that it indeed came from the car I said. So I am cleared for registration, but only when they can see that the car will monitor evaporative emission s. What a bunch of EPA ...... Never mind
Anyway, I found this, it may help others.I left empty handed again, after 120 miled n have to go back a 4th time I n Monday n hopefully u can get plates or end up with another 10 day permit.

I hope this clears up what I am attempting to get accomplished.

Really hate having other people that know nothing about actual mechanic work n are all surfing the web n get bothered to clear me for registration. America has an EPA with billions of dollars n all to stiffle others work. Any law is another person's burden.
Drive cycle for Dodge:

Chrysler Drive Cycle Information
All Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off
- Cold start (Note: cold start temperature is undefined)
Driving Procedure
1) Warm engine up for five minutes (must reach closed loop)
2) Drive (with steady throttle) at a speed between 40 and 60 mph for 8 minutes.
3) Stop and idle for 3 minutes.
4) Drive (with steady throttle) at a speed above 20 mph for 2 minutes.
5) Turn key off, leave off for ten minutes (to run O2 sensor heater monitor).
Note: Due to the limited preconditions provided with this drive trace, NCVECS recommends using the monitor
specific drive traces for Chrysler vehicles.
Catalyst Monitor Drive Trace
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- No DTCs present.
- Fuel level is between 15% and 85% full.
- ECT above 70 F.
- Engine must have run at least 90 seconds
- Engine between 1,350 & 1,900 rpm.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 30 and 45 mph for 2 minutes.
EGR System Monitor Drive Trace - Vacuum controlled
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 8 minutes.
EGR System Monitor Drive Trace - Electronic
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off.
- MAP must be between 0-60 KPa.
- Engine speed between 500-850 rpm.
- ECT is above 180 F (90 C).
- No misfire temporary (pending) or matured fault present.
- A/C clutch, PS Switch and Cooling fans do not change state (turn off).
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five (5) minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 2 minutes.
3) Idle vehicle for three (3) minutes.

Suppose you have "fixed" an emissions problem on an OBDII-equipped vehicle. How can you check your work? By performing what is called an "OBDII drive cycle."
The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory, or after the battery has been disconnected. Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can be detected.
The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

OBD Readiness
One reason some vehicles cannot complete the E-Check is the on board diagnostic (OBD II) system
readiness monitors are not set. Frequently, this is caused by erasing the memory from the OBD system
by either clearing any diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) or disconnecting the battery. If possible, when
working on a vehicle that has failed the E-Check OBD II test due to an activated malfunction indicator
lamp (MIL, check engine light), do not clear the DTC(s). If the cause of the original failure has been
repaired properly, the DTC(s) will clear and the MIL will go out when the OBD system tests the repaired
emissions control system.
If the DTC(s) have been cleared, there are various drive cycles to reset the monitors. Some monitors are
continuously checked and take little driving to reset those. Some other monitors are checked
intermittently and take more specific driving conditions to reset.
Many vehicle manufacturers now include these drive cycles in the vehicle?s owner?s manual. Others will
provide information in Technical Service Bulletins (TSB). Please note, some specific published drive
cycles are intended to reset all monitors in the shortest amount of time as possible. In many cases, a
few days of normal driving, both city and highway, will reset the monitors.
For general information regarding OBD II, including very specific drive cycles for Ford and GM (included
in the following pages) vehicles (including which monitors are reset during specific driving events), see
the following web site: http://www.obdii.com/
More general information can be found at: http://www.aa1car.com/library/us796obd.htm . A generic
drive cycle, which is identical to the GM drive cycle noted above, is included.
In addition, some vehicle manufacturers provide information on how a vehicle owner can determine if
the OBD system is ready for emissions checking by performing a certain procedure.
Readiness Check
The following paragraphs detail procedures on how to determine if the OBD II monitors are ready for E-
For newer Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles, to determine if the vehicle is ready for E-Check, turn the
ignition key to the ?on? position for 15 seconds without cranking the engine. If the service engine soon
indicator blinks eight times, it means that the vehicle is not ready for E-Check; if the service engine soon
indicator stays on solid, it means that the vehicle is ready for E-Check testing. This procedure was
included in the Owner?s Manual for a 2012 Ford Focus. This same procedure may apply to other models
and model years Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles.
For Jeep, Chrysler and Dodge, the owner?s manual states that the vehicle has a simple ignition key-
actuated test, which you can use prior to going to the test station. To check if your vehicle?s OBD II
system is ready, you must do the following:
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 11:19 PM
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Many DTC codes will interrupt the "Good Drive Cycle" which will affect being ready for Emissions testing as you've found out.

Your original post wasn't clear on what the issue was.

Guess you need to drive it for a bit and reset the Good Cycle?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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Well I have read thru the links that peva put up and I must thank both peva and rondo.
Reading thru the threads 3 times and it in fact does help me understand the entire LDP issue I initially had and perhaps I have the lines reversed at the canister up by the front right side head lite and or the 3 Rd line from fuel tank, that I incorporated into the cruise control line, is getting a leak.... If the cruise is not functioning due to a leak under the pdc at the cruise reservoir.
And if the LDP does not cycle, then perhaps the evap will not show as monitored although I should show pending....maybe?

Never the less, the main issue I have is:
the EVAP system is indicatinh "Not Monitored" by the computer at the DMV. And also on my scanner it shows incomplete.
I will do a cycle run in the morning and go from there.
I must say the yhe threads peva left me were very educating. Helps me understand all the emissions, exhaust and power train sections in the 2000 and 2001 FSM. I am so ready to move on to my 68 karmin ghia convertible project, but I seem to be stuck on this registration part of this job.
Thanks again guys.
God bless
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Help..... Me. Please.... So this morning, after waiting 2 days of start ups and drive cycles (due to actually finding and fixing a small leak to deal with p1495- cleared that code and ended up losing some of my monitors that then displayed incomplete or not Monitored) I finally get the EVAP to display "monitored" on my Bosch scanner, and boom.... The engine lite turns on. P1494. Incorrect input state at the pressure switch.
Do I have vacuum hoses plugged in wrong? How can I get a code for LDP and then two days later have a bad switch? Can I fix this without clearing this code?
I really find myself clueless here. I will surf the web and see if I can fix this while I wait for a response here.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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so on Tuesday, 3 days ago I was about to drop the fuel tank and I took all my vaccum lines apart and found the line I have coming from the fuel tank to the T at the plenum with the cruise control line had an obstruction. In a haste i piggy backed a rubber connector on a smaller one to make the connection and zip tied it. The inner connector looks like it rolled up under the pressure of the zip tie. I have reworked the lines on the left side again and hoped that I actually found the problem. Rookie type mistake. Haste makes waste is what they say. I would have to agree. Although it would take drive cycles( of which it take 2-3 cold starts to get the monititor to display EVAP being monitored) I did erase the p1494. code. Next day my drove the car to work - 25 - 20 miles n drive it at lunch and then back home that evening and that evening the EVAP was displaying as being monitored. In fact the cruise control now works as well. The linked line was the issue from the onset of the DTC all along. The car is registered and now on its first oil change of the break-in period at 500 miles. I would have to say that the engine swap was relatively easy with the step by step instructions I found on daytreppers 2005 threads n posts. The 3.2L engine with major overhaul runs great, all thanks to this site and it's gearheads.
Thank you all
G-8 out.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 12:12 PM
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Nice to hear!

I couldn't visualize everything you said about the improvised connection, but maybe the zip tie being slightly too tight caused the blockage from distortion of the inner rubber?
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