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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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3.2 no start

I have replaced old 3.2 with dif one on a 2000 intrepid. I'm getting no spark,i also get no power when key on at the coil wire. I've switched relays for asd no difference,checked fuses seems to be ok.
I wonder if the ecm could have went bad. Fuel pump runs, the car turns over and sometimes it seems like it is trying start to but just doesn't.
Any suggesttion on why no power to coil wire?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 09:15 PM
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See if you get power at the coil when the engine is cranking. Recheck all your plugs and wiring. Crankshaft sensor is a very common failure point so you might start there.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks I'll give it a try today.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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replaced crank pos sensor and it started for a second then stopped.Did the key on off thing got a p0340 code should i replace cam pos sensor?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikd View Post
...checked fuses seems to be ok...
That statement bothers me. 9 times out of 10 when someone makes a half-hearted statement about fuses "probably" being good, it's a bad fuse. Not saying that's the case with you, but you really need to be ceratin about the fuses being good before you waste a lot of time and possibly money trying to figure it out. When you are 100% certain the fuses are good, and it's still not working, then look at other stuff.

From the FSM, you know what fuses being blown would remove power from the coils?

Last edited by peva; 12-24-2008 at 01:32 PM.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the cam pos sensor still no start(shocking) but now the p0340 code is gone. I agree whole heartedly about the fuses being blown then no coil power. I have coil power when first turn key on and while its turning over. The only two things i can think of that I've done any different than any other engine replacement.
I had to pull the left cover off and replace because the bung that held the cam pos sensor was broke off so i had to pull the cam sprocket. I've checked the timing belt just now and all the marks are lined up and look fine.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 09:58 PM
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which ECU are you using? I've heard of other posts where the choice of ECU ultimately decided whether the car started or not. Did you try both the old one and the new one?
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikd View Post
I replaced the cam pos sensor still no start(shocking) but now the p0340 code is gone. I agree whole heartedly about the fuses being blown then no coil power. I have coil power when first turn key on and while its turning over. The only two things i can think of that I've done any different than any other engine replacement.
I had to pull the left cover off and replace because the bung that held the cam pos sensor was broke off so i had to pull the cam sprocket. I've checked the timing belt just now and all the marks are lined up and look fine.
If you did not install another 3.2-- assuming you did from your original post-- what year/size engine was installed? There are no PCM/ECM issues as long as the year range was met (98-01 to 98-01, 02-04 to 02-04)...

As Peva mentioned, check all fuses and verify they are all good. I doubt you have a bad coil fuse since you are getting power to the coils while cranking. If there was a fuse issue as far as the coils are concerned, you would have no power to the coils at all.

Verify again what is missing during cranking, spark, or fuel. Check your injector or coil signal. If you installed a used engine, and it had been sitting, its possible that all 6 injectors are stuck. This is rare, but I have ran into this twice now. If this is the case the car will start on starting fluid. Another possibility is the engine harness was cut or damaged by the salvage yard when they removed the engine from the donor car, assuming you got a used engine.


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Last edited by Daytrepper; 12-25-2008 at 06:19 AM.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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I used another engine which was same year.I also used the harness off the original engine.I smell gas after cranking for a while.

I was wondering if because i had to take off the cam sprocket that when i put it back on if it is off,because i didnt have the tools to index the sprocket.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32Intrepid View Post
...As Peva mentioned, check all fuses and verify they are all good. I doubt you have a bad coil fuse since you are getting power to the coils while cranking...
I agree with that. His OP said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikd View Post
I'm getting no spark,i also get no power when key on at the coil wire...
But a later post said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikd View Post
...I have coil power when first turn key on and while its turning over...
Is it me, or do those two statements contradict each other?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikd View Post
...I was wondering if because i had to take off the cam sprocket that when i put it back on if it is off,because i didnt have the tools to index the sprocket.
Certainly you're not saying you put the sprocket and timing belt on in random timing positions. You either timed it or you didn't. I'm confused. Are you saying in hindsight you thouhgt you put it back right, but were maybe one tooth off?
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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After rechecking it a different way I have power at the coil.
No i didn't just randomly put timing belt on DUH!

In the manual it says after you remove timing sprocket you have to use cam holding tool to hold cam in the rear and the sprocket needs to be timed to the cam or it could be off a couple degrees.

I dont have the tool so i put it on best i could and the timing marks line up.
So if you know anything about these engines you would know that the timing sprockets are keyed in a " D " shape so you can't randomly put them on hence the question of indexing them.

A tooth off no,but degrees maybe.I'm trying to get a little insight as to if someone else may have had same problems,not somebody to pick apart my posts.If you notice my op said i have no power then my next post said i have power so in my opinion thats not contradiction that would be progression.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikd View Post
After rechecking it a different way I have power at the coil.
No i didn't just randomly put timing belt on DUH!

In the manual it says after you remove timing sprocket you have to use cam holding tool to hold cam in the rear and the sprocket needs to be timed to the cam or it could be off a couple degrees.

I dont have the tool so i put it on best i could and the timing marks line up.
So if you know anything about these engines you would know that the timing sprockets are keyed in a " D " shape so you can't randomly put them on hence the question of indexing them.
Well then I guess I don't understand the question. We both know as much as there is to know, i.e., that one or both cams could be off worst-case as much as a couple of degrees. We both should certainly understand at this point that the cams could be off a couple of degrees - as much as the sloppy D hole would allow. I wouldn't think that a couple of degrees off would make it not run. Might not run real well, but I would think that would not prevent it from running. Admittedly I'm not an expert on this, so if someone who knows more disagrees with me on that, then I will readily defer to them.

So is your question "Would the cam timing being off a couple of degrees cause it not to run, or would that cause it to just run poorly?"?

Quote:
A tooth off no,but degrees maybe.I'm trying to get a little insight as to if someone else may have had same problems,not somebody to pick apart my posts.
Sorry if that's the way it seemed. That wasn't my intent.

Quote:
If you notice my op said i have no power then my next post said i have power so in my opinion thats not contradiction that would be progression.
I can't read your mind. You didn't say "On re-checking, I find that I do have power to the coils". To a reader who was trying to follow along, with no explanation or qualification, it appeared as a contradiction. No doubt you understand that a piece of information like that can make a huge difference in what direction you go in for troubleshooting.

To be clear, you specifically asked at the tail end of your OP "Any suggesttion on why no power to coil wire?". Then I'm not supposed to be scratching my head when later, with no further explanation, you're getting power to the coils.

Anyway - it's not about me - on to your problem . . .


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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well i appreciate all your input. My problem with the coil was for some reason i thought the coil would have constant power to it but upon further examination i found that key on power is just for an instant so that is where my two posts became fuzzy...sorry ..

Anyway i am in total agreement with you that being a couple degrees off shouldn't have any affect on it starting. On that note i left the car alone for the night and went out this afternoon and turned the key and it started but only ran for a min or so and it didn't seem like it ran well.

If all the plugs weren't new i would think it was a fouling problem.If i spray starting fluid in the throttle body it doesn't start either which makes me believe that it may not be a fuel problem. This has got me a little off kilter. Engine has good compression.I did have to put new intake gaskets on it because i changed harness so i pulled intake, but i wouldnt think that should be a problem.. Just brainstorming ...

And if the pcm were faulty i would think it wouldn't start either way. If theres one thing i dislike it's these kinds of gremlins.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2008, 09:37 PM
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Is this problem possibly related to a security or alarm system. Neither of my Concordes have that type of thing, but I seem to remember reading posts - way more than one thread over the years - where people said the engine would start and run for a minute or so, then cut off. And if memory serves, the replies almost always mention alarm system problems. Throwing that out just in case it is related.

Last edited by peva; 12-25-2008 at 09:49 PM.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Well still no start, the car has no type of alarm. I have good spark through all the coils i used noid lights and the injectors are getting signal and with upper manifold of the injectors are spraying. So i ordered the cam lock tool and im going to try timing the cam so if that doesn't work im outta luck.
I just dont understand if the car sits it will fire up but wont stay running hell with the upper intake off it fired for just a second...confusing... I guess i will do compression check on all cylinders thats one thing i didnt do yet, ive done checks on two of the six so i will do the rest and see what we got.
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