PCV Valve, Spark Plugs, and a P0300 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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PCV Valve, Spark Plugs, and a P0300

Working on my wives 03 Dodge Intrepid 3.5. It's got an intermittent miss that you can feel with an intermittent P0300 code to go with it. Also every once in a while it takes a real long time to start. Like cranking it for 10 seconds. While I don't think plugs and a PCV valve will fix the issue it's a start and probably needs them anyways. I got a Mopar PCV valve ready to go but i'm unsure what plugs to get (and what to gap them too). I've dude a bit of poking and it seems like I should avoid plat plugs? Also I see gaps from 50 to 35. Not sure what to go with at this point.


Anyone shed some light on this for me?


EDIT: Google around it seems like it could maybe be the ASD relay? Is it just a standard relay? That should be cheap enough for me to just toss in.

Last edited by Fahrenheit; 06-27-2016 at 10:59 PM.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 11:05 PM
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A fuel pressure test is in order, sounds like a leaky injector.

If an injector is leaky, it will drip after it fires, or when its pressurized; and almost act like a choke flooding the engine, causing hard start issues; and sometimes misfire issues.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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A fuel pressure test is in order, sounds like a leaky injector.

If an injector is leaky, it will drip after it fires, or when its pressurized; and almost act like a choke flooding the engine, causing hard start issues; and sometimes misfire issues.
That's what I was thinking myself. I've never done a FP test before, anyplace to go to look up how to do one? How do I sort out what injector it might be? I'm kinda hoping i'll see a real damp plug when i pull them indicating what injecter might be leaking
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit View Post
That's what I was thinking myself. I've never done a FP test before, anyplace to go to look up how to do one? How do I sort out what injector it might be? I'm kinda hoping i'll see a real damp plug when i pull them indicating what injecter might be leaking
If your luck is like mine, it'll hold pressure rather well every time you put the gauge on it. I said to hell with it and replaced all 6 injectors ($360) but took care of the problem.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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If your luck is like mine, it'll hold pressure rather well every time you put the gauge on it. I said to hell with it and replaced all 6 injectors ($360) but took care of the problem.
I take it it's important to use mopar injectors? What about the spark plugs?

Last edited by Fahrenheit; 06-28-2016 at 02:53 AM.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:08 AM
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Sometimes you can fix the problem by running with Sea Foam or Techron additive in the fuel for a couple of tanks - the theory is that a piece of residue is attached on an injector pintel or bore making it stick open or preventing it from fully sealing against the seat when closed. Might be worth trying. An easy fix if it works.

7781 NGK plugs are the best for this engine (factory original). People have tried others - nothing works better, many work worse (certain Bosche in particular). 0.050" gap.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Sometimes you can fix the problem by running with Sea Foam or Techron additive in the fuel for a couple of tanks - the theory is that a piece of residue is attached on an injector pintel or bore making it stick open or preventing it from fully sealing against the seat when closed. Might be worth trying. An easy fix if it works.

7781 NGK plugs are the best for this engine (factory original). People have tried others - nothing works better, many work worse (certain Bosche in particular). 0.050" gap.
Thanks, gonna slap in the plugs and PCV valve and drop in a can of sea foam before digging any dipper. I'll keep an eye out for any plugs that look wet.


Also i'm poking around, anyone do a write up for replacing the injectors? Seems like the manifold needs to come off?
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:13 AM
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Sparkplugs, NGK or Champion platinum gapped at .050 if I remember right.

As far as injectors, I tried doing several searches before choosing to go OEM. I didn't find anything that really discredited aftermarkets or aftermarket remans, but I really didn't find anything that suggested they may be ok either. In the end I decided I only felt like doing the job once and being done with it, even if it might cost 30-50% more. I bought mine online through a mopar wholesale dealer, typically a good bit cheaper than the local dealer.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:16 AM
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Looks like Bill covered the sparkplug issue as I was typing.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:18 AM Thread Starter
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Sparkplugs, NGK or Champion platinum gapped at .050 if I remember right.

As far as injectors, I tried doing several searches before choosing to go OEM. I didn't find anything that really discredited aftermarkets or aftermarket remans, but I really didn't find anything that suggested they may be ok either. In the end I decided I only felt like doing the job once and being done with it, even if it might cost 30-50% more. I bought mine online through a mopar wholesale dealer, typically a good bit cheaper than the local dealer.

Thanks, am I right about the injectors? The upper manifold needs to come off to get to them?
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit View Post
Thanks, gonna slap in the plugs and PCV valve and drop in a can of sea foam before digging any dipper. I'll keep an eye out for any plugs that look wet.


Also i'm poking around, anyone do a write up for replacing the injectors? Seems like the manifold needs to come off?
Remove the intake tubing that runs from the airbox to the back of the intake. Disconnect the vacuum line, pcv hose, and map sensor.Two brackets with 10mm bolts that need to come off of the front corners of the upper intake, a 3rd one in the center if you have a high outpout model with the manifold tuning valve. Two 13mm bolts (one on each side) towards the rear of the upper intake manifold. One 10mm nut on the back side, just below the throttle body (this is the one that seems to get people the first time around). Then the 10am bolts on the top of the intake manifold.

Lift the upper intake off and position out of the way (don't be surprised if a cup of oil pours out). Disconnect the fuel rail quick connect fitting and remove the screw that holds the end to the bracket above the bell housing. Remove the 4 lower intake bolts that hold the rail in place. Lift the rail off with injectors still sttached. Remove clips and injectors.

There will probably be crud from the old injector o-ring in the injector holes. I stuck a shop vac in the intake runners and knocked the crap loose with a screwdriver one runner at a time. Replace injectors and o-rings. Lube o-rings with a drop of oil and press the injectors into the rail until the clips drop into their grooves. Install rail, torque lower intake bolts to 21 ft-lbs if I remember right (pretty damn sure). Install upper manifold (torque to 105 inch-pounds.... if I remember right).
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
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Remove the intake tubing that runs from the airbox to the back of the intake. Disconnect the vacuum line, pcv hose, and map sensor.Two brackets with 10mm bolts that need to come off of the front corners of the upper intake, a 3rd one in the center if you have a high outpout model with the manifold tuning valve. Two 13mm bolts (one on each side) towards the rear of the upper intake manifold. One 10mm nut on the back side, just below the throttle body (this is the one that seems to get people the first time around). Then the 10am bolts on the top of the intake manifold.

Lift the upper intake off and position out of the way (don't be surprised if a cup of oil pours out). Disconnect the fuel rail quick connect fitting and remove the screw that holds the end to the bracket above the bell housing. Remove the 4 lower intake bolts that hold the rail in place. Lift the rail off with injectors still sttached. Remove clips and injectors.

There will probably be crud from the old injector o-ring in the injector holes. I stuck a shop vac in the intake runners and knocked the crap loose with a screwdriver one runner at a time. Replace injectors and o-rings. Lube o-rings with a drop of oil and press the injectors into the rail until the clips drop into their grooves. Install rail, torque lower intake bolts to 21 ft-lbs if I remember right (pretty damn sure). Install upper manifold (torque to 105 inch-pounds.... if I remember right).

Tq order fro the manifold bolts?
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 10:16 AM
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Pull it down evenly over the two dowels then work from the center on out.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bh1992 View Post
Looks like Bill covered the sparkplug issue as I was typing.
No problem, Brandon.

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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit View Post
...I got a Mopar PCV valve ready to go...
Quote:
Thanks, gonna slap in the plugs and PCV valve and...
You might want to read this thread: ALERT: Check OEM PCV valve for this design flaw...

Unfortunately the forum no longer displays linked photos, but when the pintel in the valve randomly jams, the valve is completely shut off until it might happen to shake loose.

While I've not heard/read of anyone else reporting what I observed, I can say that that problem caused my engine to suddenly pour smoke out the exhaust and use oil at a huge rate until the moment I replaced the PCV valve with an aftermarket part. I found the same problem on PCV valves purchased at different times from a dealer. I was able to get the pintel to jam shut without problem about 1 out of 3 times by gently shaking the PCV valve just enough to bounce the pintel from its full open to full closed positions

You may find no problem with one you purchase from a dealer, but at least now you will be aware of the problem so that if your engine starts pouring smoke out the exhaust and using oil, you will know the cause and what to do about it. This is not the same as a PCV valve causing some oil usage due to being dirty, which it will also do.

I have not had any problems using aftermarket PCV valves since then in my Concordes, even though they can look cruder and have rougher finish than the OEM part.

FYI FWIW ABCDEFG.


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