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Camshaft Sensor Confusion

2K views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  hg3300 
#1 ·
I have purchased 3 different sensors, all resulted in a no-start condition.

I find it odd that every one I purchased does not look like the factory installed sensor, especially the one I got from the junkyard. They all looked like this: http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1492864

The sensor in my car currently (which allows the car to start and does seem to have a few issues causing stalling/hesitation) looks like this: http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/102747 and it's a quarter of an inch longer than the part the auto parts store has on hand to replace it.

I don't know why else these 'replacements' would fail other than because they didn't match the original part exactly.

Could I get some input on what the problem might be? I don't know/think I can get my hands on the OEM part, just the remakes.
 
#4 ·
Many users here including myself have had very bad luck with aftermarket sensors not fitting or functioning properly in our cars.

Go to the Dodge dealer and purchase the correct sensor, which is part number 4609089AC; and be done with it.
 
#6 ·
At $70-100/hour labor at the Dealer are you sure you want to do that? LOL! Your trip to the dealer to install a new Cam Sensor could end up costing $200 or more. And they might find something else wrong that'll add up. Many dealers won't touch a car nowadays unless you pay for a "Diagnostic" fee of .5-1 hour labor. That way they don't get stiffed by tools trying to use them for a free diagnostic service.

Online OEM Dealers are selling the genuine Cam Sensor for around $40 and it retails for around $57 at the Dealer. I've gone to the Dealer direct on a number of parts and know I'll get a good part. On the small chance it's defective they offer a 12 month warranty on pretty much all parts.
 
#8 ·
This is a part that takes 5 minutes to change. Where are you getting $200?

I'm going to call ahead, I've tried replacing the damned thing 3 times with no luck and I'm not planning on getting screwed by a dealership. They're going to let me test it or I'll go elsewhere.
 
#14 ·
I can understand the confusion, let me go over my problem in detail.

I bought the car a month ago. It stalled out at a Stop sign on the way home, and I noticed the Check Engine light went on at some point. The car had also been hesitating on acceleration (not all the time). So after posting here, I got information on how to find the codes in my car, and posted the details here: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/18-gen...1-dodge-intrepid-se-quirks-2.html#post4025961

P1391 and P1684 were the two codes that showed up, for the CMP and the TCM. I was told to replace the sensor, so I went ahead and ordered one from Amazon. It came a week later, and it was the wrong one (for the 3.2 engine), so I went to Advance Auto Parts and purchased one there, only to put it in and find that my car won't start. I went to the junkyard on Friday and found an identical part in an Intrepid, but it also resulted in a no-start when I put it in my car. Then later that day I went to NAPA and they gave me the same part, which, surprise, resulted in a no-start. Each time I put the old part back in and my car started right up.

I've just about given up on these aftermarket parts so it was suggested that I get one from a dealership. What I do not want is to get home and find out the car won't start with that new part in it. Nor do I want them to hand me the same inferior part I'm trying to avoid getting.

I will be giving a few dealers in my area a call first thing tomorrow, to see what they can do and what they may or may not charge. And I'm getting my mechanic uncle to look at it on Friday (he doesn't work at a dealership otherwise I'd go right to him)
 
#15 · (Edited)
I can understand the confusion, let me go over my problem in detail.
P1391 and P1684 were the two codes that showed up, for the CMP and the TCM. I was told to replace the sensor, so I went ahead and ordered one from Amazon. It came a week later, and it was the wrong one (for the 3.2 engine), so I went to Advance Auto Parts and purchased one there, only to put it in and find that my car won't start. I went to the junkyard on Friday and found an identical part in an Intrepid, but it also resulted in a no-start when I put it in my car. Then later that day I went to NAPA and they gave me the same part, which, surprise, resulted in a no-start. Each time I put the old part back in and my car started right up.
Now knowing this, I would replace the crankshaft sensor first, not the camshaft sensor.

If your camshaft sensor was bad; your car would still start even with the other "bad" sensors installed;

The camshaft position sensor only sends timing information to the ECM over 2500 RPM.

The crankshaft sensor is used for starting information, and timing information up to 2500RPM. So, if your camshaft sensor was in fact bad, your car would stumble and stall once it hit 2500 RPM. Crank sensor would cause no start, hard start, stalling, and erratic running below 2500.

P1391 indicates a disagreement between the two sensors, and in my experience, has almost always been the crankshaft sensor. My solution on this issue was always to replace BOTH sensors with original equipment and cover all bases.
 
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