I know theres several threads on this but im posting to hopefully get help asap! I changed the water pump, timing chain, timing sprockets, guides, slides and tensioner. I reused the cam chains and tensioners because they seemed just fine and tight with the correct number of links between timing marks. On reassembly, i was double and triple sure to set timing chain sprockets to correct links and crank sprocket to mark on oil pump. When attaching timing chain sprockets to cams i was sure to set them to 90 degree to valve sealing surface. However every instructional and forum i could possibly find told that the cams would have to shift in order to bolt the timing sprockets to cams. In accordance with said instructions the passenger bank was pointing 12 oclock and the drivers side bank was pointing at two oclock with all timing marks and links in correct position. Now after reassembling the engine and components ive gone over several times checking to make sure i have all connections where they should be. At first start-up the engine tried to start briefly reaching 1000rpm before going to a fireless crank. If i push the throttle to the floor it starts to try to fire reachng 1000 rpms for a second or 2 before going back to a fireless crank. I pulled the number 1 plug and it was soaked. I have 5 v at the cam sensor but havent checked the crank sensor yet. please any help and guidance will be incredibly appreciated!!
I had a very similar experience a couple months ago.
Are you 100% certain that the camshaft sprocket has the tone wheel that matches your original tone wheel?
If you're not sure, try to unplug the camshaft sensor and start the car. If it starts but runs like crap, you probably have the wrong tone wheel
Being an '04, you should have the NGC computer. Mine had the SBEC computer ('01) and the original set I ordered came with the NGC tone wheel so I had to have the dealer send me the correct part
Edit: Last post here has a picture that shows the timing marks for my tone wheel. The one you installed should not look like that (the holes on the tone wheel)
After running a compression test it turns out i have ZERO compression on cylinders 1,3 and 5 and 2, 4 and 6 get up to 90 and rapidly drop shortly after. Ive torn this thing down twice now to be sure of the timing i just dont understand how it could be off. ugh I was hoping this was going to be a relatively easy project. Looks like im tasked with another full tear down including down to the valves for inspection. Crossing my fingers none of them are bent but at this rate i wouldnt be surprised. @JJerell I matched the cam sprocket tone wheel with the original. I so wish the issue were that simple lol. Im stuck with buying a new vehicle to get me by or i guess a new daily driver. I will post an update when i tear back into her and check out those damn valves. Thanks guys
Good luck! That was the only thing I experienced that caused that problem, other than when I was off a couple teeth on my timing. Maybe some of the more experienced folks will hop on here with their 2 cents
I ran mine around with a wrench on the end of the dampener bolt until the timing marks came back up. I takes about 20 full rotations, but I wanted to be absolutely sure all the slack was out of it. The first time I did it, I wasn't happy with how they aligned even though when I first assembled them they looked dead nuts on. So you could be off a tooth.
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