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Radiator replacement tips needed

8K views 23 replies 6 participants last post by  peva 
#1 ·
Starting this weekend I am starting my cooling system "overhaul"

New parts:
Radiator
Upper and Lower Hose
Thermostat w/ new gasket
coolant & flush

For my 00' Intrepid 3.2
My questions are:
How can I remove the radiator without having to take the condenser out or any other lines for AC (Don't want to pay extra to get freon removed and added back in)?
Does the thermostat gasket need any sealant or go on dry?
Where is the bleeder valve on this engine?
Can I leave hoses open until my radiator arrives (worried about extra moisture getting into the engine)?
 
#2 ·
You don't have to remove the AC lines to separate the condenser from the radiator, just remove the two screws and lift/wiggle it out of the slots. Thermostat gasket can go on dry. Bleeder is towards the top front of the engine near the center, you will need a either a 3/8" or 10mm deep socket (can't remember which they used) in order to reach it since it is below the black plastic upper intake manifold, but still directly accessible. The last question......do you really think humidity is going to be an issue in a cooling system that is normally full of antifreeze and water?
 
#3 · (Edited)
A.C. lines stay connected. Remove the upper radiator support - carefully lay it on top of the engine being careful to center it and not hit the tops of the fenders and scratch the paint - no need to disconnect the hood latch cable.

Disconnect the fan electrical connector at the top of the radiator. There's a small metal U-clip right at the top center of the radiator that clips the fan assembly tight to the radiator. Remove the clip, then remove cooling fan assembly (4 bolts). Fan assembly lifts out, but the two rad. hose nipples will be in the way. It may help to remove the hose connections at the radiator, but you push the top of the fan assembly back towards the engine to clear the upper hose nipple and work one side at a time to clear the fan assembly attachment legs by the radiator nipples. Take your time and don't get frustrated so you don't force things too hard and damage something. It might take a little pressure and tilting of the fan assembly to get the attachment legs to clear everything and lift the fan assembly up and out.

There is one bolt on either side that secure the condenser to the radiator. Tilt the top of radiator back towards the engine to get the two bolts out - you might want to lift the radiator slightly to get the bumpers at the bottom of the radiator out of their cups and scoot the whole thing towards the engine. Once the two condenser bolts are out, you lift the condenser an inch or so up while holding the radiator down to clear the 4 upward-facing tabs on the radiator so you can move the condenser forward to free it from the radiator.

You can't lift the radiator out quite yet. Disconnect the two oil cooler lines (if your car has them) from the passenger side of the radiator, and the two transmission cooler lines on the driver's side of the radiator.

There are four small hoses (aux. transmission cooler and power steering cooler lines) that wrap around the driver's side of the radiator down low. There's a bolt on a bracket that clamps two of the lines tight to the radiator. You have to remove that screw and bracket, and it's impossible to do without knowing the trick, which is to detach the driver's side of the fascia and maybe remove the driver's side headlight and use a socket (8 or 10mm - I forget which) and extensions with ratchet just inboard of the driver's side fender. Once that bracket is off, clear the four lines from the side of the radiator (two of the lines are pressed into clips molded into the radiator) and lift the radiator straight up and out.

Reverse for reassembly. Attach all cooler lines before installing the fan assembly. I believe the oil cooler lines are threaded connections. Support the oil cooler bung nuts with a wrench when tightening the lines, or you can damage those connections and the radiator. (Actually, I recommend decontenting the oil cooler lines - procedure described elsewhere in this forum.)

There's a tab at bottom center of the fan assembly that fits into a small pocket of the radiator to hold the fan assembly tight to the radiator - corresponds to the metal clip at top center of the radiator that you need to push back into place. Use only the same 4 bolts that attached the fan assembly to reattach. If you happen to use longer bolts, they'll punch holes in your new radiator when you tighten them - don't do that.

Take time to correctly position the headlights while re-installing the 4 headlight skewers to ensure that they go thru the holes (top) and clips (bottom) correctly. Tighten just snuggly enough to pull the headlights up tight against the radiator support for proper headlight alignment - don't overtighten and strip out the plastic threads in the top headlight bosses.

I recommend replacing the two transmission cooler line clamps with fuel line clamps of the right size (NAPA has them). They apply nice even pressure all around the hose diameter to more effectively seal. Tighten them up moderately tight so they don't leak.

Fuel injection hose clamps:
 
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#16 ·
Glad the info. on the hood latch adjustment helped. From your description, either someone loosened the latch bolts at some point, or it otherwise got knocked out of position.

For the oil cooler line leak, if tightening it *some* (using a backup wrench on the bung nut) doesn't fix it, there's always this option:
...(Actually, I recommend decontenting the oil cooler lines - procedure described elsewhere in this forum.)...
The oil cooler on these engines actually can create more problems and risk (of engine damage) than it solves/prevents. Chrysler actually de-contented it in later years of the LH production run. Cut cost, reduce risk - it's a win-win.
 
#5 ·
You guys are such big helps!!

I have the fan out, and hoses off, stopped because my 17mm is missing and should get the proper wrench for removing the lines.
Last thing I want to do is strip them out. The thermostat and new hoses arrived today, I'm going to polish the end piece of the inlet for the bottom half of the intake.
I'm surprised with how easy the removal has been so far. I removed the headlights since new ones will be here next week.

The radiator was eroded on the end piece for the upper hose, I'm thinking that's what happened to drain plug as well.
Hoping the thermostat housing isnt.

I will post updates tomorrow on my progress.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Oh - and it is advisable on the 3.2/3.5 to remove the alternator to work the thermostat R&R from above. YMMV.

Also, you may have seen other posts of mine in which I recommend staying with the factory spring-type coolant hose clamps - unlike the screw-type hose clamp, they keep constant, even pressure on the hoses even as the rubber takes a set - pretty much eliminates leaks from hose connections. Yes - they can be a PITA to R&R, but I find that using the cable-operated-type tool pretty much negates that argument against them - $30-$40 for a decent tool.

 
#7 ·
And test the new thermostat in a pan of water on the stove before installing. Not unheard of to get a bad one right out of the box (advisable to get t-stat from dealer - aftermarket ones - even Gates brand - can cause long warmups and cold operating temperature on the 3.2/3.5). Pellet side of t-stat points into the block - will get overtemp if put in backwards.
 
#8 ·
I am taking pictures of how I remove anything so I can put it back the same way. I got a failsafe thermostat which my dealer has failsafe and mopar genuine in stock, I got the failsafe at autozone already however, should it not work properly I will take it back and get a genuine mopar.
I have the car raised up, I have plenty of room at the moment so no need to remove the alternator. I will should it get in the way. I used a vice grip to get hold the clamp and that worked easily, got the hose off in a minute.
 
#9 ·
Let us know how the thermostat does.

It may be obvious, but if doing the thermostat from below, remove the oil filter so it won't be as much in your way.

Vice grips will work if there's room for them in the particular location and depending on which way the grip tabs are oriented. The cable-type tool gets into areas that nothing else can fit into and *almost* regardless of which way the tabs are pointing.
 
#10 ·
Also, it can be quite the trick to get the gasket and thermostat to stay in place while you reinstall the housing, and even if the thermostat stays in the recess/groove in the housing made for it, it's impossible to know for sure - and it will ruin the thermostat and maybe the housing if you torque it down with the thermostat flange not in that recess.

Someone posted some years ago the perfect, simple solution to that: Loop a zip tie thru the outboard end of the thermostat, and connect the ends of the zip tie, but leave the zip tie in a large loop. Then, with the t-stat in the removed housing, put a small bolt or rod thru the loop of the zip tie and across the hose end opening of the housing, and tighten the zip tie around the bolt/rod as you properly seat the thermostat in the housing recess. That holds the t-stat *firmly* in place while you bolt it up. When done, snip the zip tie and remove it and the bolt/rod - done - no uncertainty about exactly where the t-stat is.

Also, if the t-stat has a jiggle pin (hopefully it does), orient the t-stat to put the jiggle pin at the top.
 
#11 · (Edited)

Hoses off, new thermostat in, working the radiator today, new one will be here on wednesday.


UPDATE:

Radiator is out, thermostat is installed and hoses reattached.
Radiator will be arriving sometime this week and the oil will be here tomorrow.

I really appreciate the help you all gave. I have come to love this car and can't wait to drive it again.
 

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#13 ·
If the radiator upper support is not out of position (the bolt holes allow it to be bolted down in a slightly different position) you need to loosen the two bolts that attach the hood latch to the upper support and move it up or down (sounds like it needs to move up a little). The 2 latch mount bolt holes are intentionally oversized to allow that adjustment for proper hood closure (not too tight, not too loose). Are those 2 latch mount bolts possibly already loose, and it slipped out of position, or did you take the latch off for some reason and it's now out of position? You might loosen all the bolts attaching the upper radiator mount to see if it can be wiggled to position it closer to its original position and then retighten the bolts before adjusting the latch position.

After adjusting the hood closure, visually check if the hood is even in height with the tops of the fenders near the front when closed. You adjust the closed hood height using the black plastic bumpers - one on each side of the radiator cross piece (or maybe just next to it I forget). Rotate them clockwise and counterclockwise to lower and raise just like a screw. You may have to fine tune the adjustment of the latch along with the bumper heights to get everything right - it's not rocket science. Just get the height visually correct, and you want a little downward tension on the hood when it's latched, but you don't want a lot of tension to where you have to slam it to get it to latch.
 
#14 ·
Found the issue, there are two supports, one of each side, both got knocked down a little, I raised them and it bolted up much easier, and the bolt on the right side of the hood latch was down more then the other so it was skewed a bit, raised it back up and it closed just fine, took her for a spin and shes as happy as can be!!! I can drive my intrepid again!!!!
*tears of a joy*

I have only 1 leak and its the top oil line feeding into the radiator, should I put the sealing tape on the thread...or just tighten it up more?
I got expensive oil and dont wanna loose more lol
 
#15 ·
Do not tighten it more. I would unscrew it and check the flare and everything. Make sure the oil line goes straight into the radiator. Then tighten up.

You'll crack your new radiator by trying to tighten that fitting up.
 
#20 ·
Gates Timing Belt Kit from Rock Auto. Should be a discount code around here somewhere.
 
#21 ·
$157.79 before discount and shipping.

PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump; 4 Components (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Hydraulic Tensioner, 1 Water Pump)

 
#23 ·
You guys rule. So I fixed the oil leak, and the coolant leak has mysteriously stopped. I checked the coolant levels, plenty of coolant still in it. Maybe I overfilled it originally?

All is good now, its great to be driving it again. Still going to order the new parts of course. Injectors first
 
#24 ·
Failing water pump seals can go thru a period of intermittent leaking before they finally totally give out - so keep an eye on it until you do replace it. Or like you said, perhaps there was some other one-off flukey other cause of a leak.
 
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