A.C. lines stay connected. Remove the upper radiator support - carefully lay it on top of the engine being careful to center it and not hit the tops of the fenders and scratch the paint - no need to disconnect the hood latch cable.
Disconnect the fan electrical connector at the top of the radiator. There's a small metal U-clip right at the top center of the radiator that clips the fan assembly tight to the radiator. Remove the clip, then remove cooling fan assembly (4 bolts). Fan assembly lifts out, but the two rad. hose nipples will be in the way. It may help to remove the hose connections at the radiator, but you push the top of the fan assembly back towards the engine to clear the upper hose nipple and work one side at a time to clear the fan assembly attachment legs by the radiator nipples. Take your time and don't get frustrated so you don't force things too hard and damage something. It might take a little pressure and tilting of the fan assembly to get the attachment legs to clear everything and lift the fan assembly up and out.
There is one bolt on either side that secure the condenser to the radiator. Tilt the top of radiator back towards the engine to get the two bolts out - you might want to lift the radiator slightly to get the bumpers at the bottom of the radiator out of their cups and scoot the whole thing towards the engine. Once the two condenser bolts are out, you lift the condenser an inch or so up while holding the radiator down to clear the 4 upward-facing tabs on the radiator so you can move the condenser forward to free it from the radiator.
You can't lift the radiator out quite yet. Disconnect the two oil cooler lines (if your car has them) from the passenger side of the radiator, and the two transmission cooler lines on the driver's side of the radiator.
There are four small hoses (aux. transmission cooler and power steering cooler lines) that wrap around the driver's side of the radiator down low. There's a bolt on a bracket that clamps two of the lines tight to the radiator. You have to remove that screw and bracket, and it's impossible to do without knowing the trick, which is to detach the driver's side of the fascia and maybe remove the driver's side headlight and use a socket (8 or 10mm - I forget which) and extensions with ratchet just inboard of the driver's side fender. Once that bracket is off, clear the four lines from the side of the radiator (two of the lines are pressed into clips molded into the radiator) and lift the radiator straight up and out.
Reverse for reassembly. Attach all cooler lines before installing the fan assembly. I believe the oil cooler lines are threaded connections. Support the oil cooler bung nuts with a wrench when tightening the lines, or you can damage those connections and the radiator. (Actually, I recommend decontenting the oil cooler lines - procedure described elsewhere in this forum.)
There's a tab at bottom center of the fan assembly that fits into a small pocket of the radiator to hold the fan assembly tight to the radiator - corresponds to the metal clip at top center of the radiator that you need to push back into place. Use only the same 4 bolts that attached the fan assembly to reattach. If you happen to use longer bolts, they'll punch holes in your new radiator when you tighten them - don't do that.
Take time to correctly position the headlights while re-installing the 4 headlight skewers to ensure that they go thru the holes (top) and clips (bottom) correctly. Tighten just snuggly enough to pull the headlights up tight against the radiator support for proper headlight alignment - don't overtighten and strip out the plastic threads in the top headlight bosses.
I recommend replacing the two transmission cooler line clamps with fuel line clamps of the right size (NAPA has them). They apply nice even pressure all around the hose diameter to more effectively seal. Tighten them up moderately tight so they don't leak.
Fuel injection hose clamps: