Like I said before, that kit includes the chain, the two cam sprockets, the crank sprocket, and all four chain guides. Does *not* include any of the three tensioners.
Water pump to go with that kit: 4892425AA (includes gasket)
Be careful on the water pump - they changed it slightly the way it is gasketed. On the old pump, the gasket includes a thick (like maybe 1/16" thick) piece of metal with rubber edging. I didn't realize that the metal part was a separate piece - it looked to be a machined detail part of the engine block and not a separate piece of metal - I thought the rubber was the complete gasket (it had all but rotted away). Anyway - things didn't fit right when I went to bolt on the timing cover - it permanently bulged/warped the cover (I tightened the bolts before I realized there was a problem) - actually ruined it because the water pump was sticking out an extra 1/16" (and the water pump contains some of the machined surfaces that the cover bolts to), so I had to replace the cover - due to the new gasket and pump being installed over top of the metal part of the old gasket.
Because of the way the cover got bulged, I figured there was something I had not done right with the gasket - it was obvious the new gasket was of a totally new design - was actualy much thinner than the old gasket and the pump was actually thicker by the exact difference in the thickness of the two gaskets. So I started focusing on the old gasket that I had thought was part of the block, and finally found an edge to lightly pry up on with a blade, and it finally popped loose
- mystery solved.
I put the new gasket and pump back on and buttoned it up (with new cover - actually with original cover because the one I ruined was a brand new one that I had planned on installing from the beginning - it's lucky I had ordered it so I at least had a working one to use even if it was the old one that was in good shape).
Sorry for the long story, but it might save you or someone else some headaches and delays.
Also - you will need a small but sturdy puller to get that crank sprocket off. Make sure the new sprocket goes all the way on against the step diameter of the crank - the FSM gives a distance to measure from end of crank to that sprocket as a double check - don't overlook that step. The first time, that sprocket felt solid before it was all the way home - fortunately I measured and determined the problem before creating another catastrophe.
Pick up a couple of bolts with the crank thread to use for that puller to push against (and to start pulling the damper pulley back on) - you don't want to mess up the internal threads of the crank. M14x2.0 - might have to shop around for those. Something in the 70 to 100 mm length range should work for starting to pull the damper pulley back on. Maybe a shorter one (30-40 mm) for the puller to push against.