Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
Sorry Bill. Having just replaced all my stuff just last summer, I haven't been able to forget the mechanics comment.
If you remember when you did yours, you did all the stuff with the colored links and timing marks first, and the last thing you did was install the tensioner (locked in the fully depressed position), tighten the tensioner cover and then release the tensioner using a long screwdriver by applying pressure against the tensioner arm - which is done through the right valve cover opening. At that point - and before you get the tensioner installed - the chain is fully engaged around all the sprockets and gears and I don't think you can mess up the timing with the slack that is left in the chain. Perhaps we had to rotate the crankshaft slightly clockwise to make sure the chain is taught and all the slack is in the right side near the tensioner arm (I;d have to go back and look at the manual). So if you had to replace just the tensioner again, you only need the right valve cover off (and the intake plenum too of course). No need to fiddle with any timing marks at all. It doesn't matter what position the crankshaft is in or where any of the colored links are. This assumes that the chain hasn't jumped position at some point, and that you're just addressing some re-occuring chain slap during start-ups.
I hate to tell you this, but mine has already done it twice during some real cold weather start-ups. I recognized the sound and it only lasted for 10 or 15 seconds. But that tensioner is only 9 months now and it's already got me thinking about getting a spare. This never happened once with the original tensioner with 217K miles on it.
Last edited by va3ux; 03-19-2009 at 09:30 PM.