Changing Belts in my 2004 Intrepid SXT (3.5 liter engine) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2009, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Changing Belts in my 2004 Intrepid SXT (3.5 liter engine)

All,

I noticed a squeaking noise coming from my engine this morning...I pulled over and popped the hood and...

- A/C Belt is snapped (left side of engine)
- Generator/Power Steering Belt is frayed about 30% on one side

I made it home and my car is grounded until the weekend when I can make the repair.

As I have never changed these belts before, I spoke to the local Advance Auto Parts guy and he said that changing these is a piece of cake. Just loosen tensioners, take off old belts and put new one on. I downloaded the FSM pages, but there are no simple pics as to which bolts I need to loosen. Also, it says to remove the lower air sheild. Does anyone have any pics or can recommend any site that shows how to do this repair?

Thanks in advance,
Joe
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2009, 11:08 PM
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Download the 2nd Gen Factory Service Manual @:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t94402/

Section 7-16
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2009, 11:42 PM
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Joe, there is a how-to on performing the 100k timing belt and waterpump replacement. I know it has a picture of the A/C belt tensioner in it. Let me check it and my photobucket for actual pics

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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PGR - I did download that section of the FSM.

04 - Any pics would be very helpful.

Thanks.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 12:18 AM
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Can't find the 3.5 timing belt how-to on this site.

Joe getting at the tensioning bolts for the 2 belts is kind of hard to do from the top when you have the upper radiator cross member in place. Probably impossible for the A/C v-belt. So you will need to get at the A/C belt tensioning bolt and pulley nut from the bottom

In my pic here you can see the head of the tensioning bolt dead center on the end of that pulley bracket. You will have to loosen the pulley nut to tighten/loosen the belt tension. You can just barely see the pulley nut on the threaded shaft sticking out of the pulley. You keep that nut snug when tightening the new belt and when the belt is tight enough, you torque that nut to spec to lock the pulley in place.

You can see another view here with the V-pulley actually removed. You can see the black pulley shaft and the gray tensioning bolt running off the bottom of the pic

The lower shield they mention you might need to remove goes in the gap between the two cross members under the crank pulley(mine's removed). It's only a couple of push fasteners and you might not even need to remove it.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 12:30 AM
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Now for the multi-rib belt you might be able to reach down with a short 3/8 ratchet or 1/4" in ratchet from the top. My pic here is deceiving because I had removed the upper radiator cross member to do my timing belt maintenance. You might be able to wrangle your arm to it from the underside by the oil filter, but I doubt it, and I didn't try as I had all this wonderful access from the top.


In this pic you can see the multi-rib tensioner pulley with its shiny surface and the nut on its face you will need to loosen then keep snug during tensioning of the new belt. Now if you zoom in and look past the red lettering on the belt off the alternator you can see the head of the multi-rib tensioning bolt. I actually had to access that bolt through the space between the belt running off the alt pulley(where you see that bit of daylight on the ground). There is nothing in that space now, but that upper radiator crossmember only leaves a tight space to get down there at it.

The last bit of business is how tight to tension the belts. The 3.5 liter doesn't have spring loaded tensioners. You tighten the belt while testing its tension and then torque the pulley nuts to lock the pullies in place. The dealer has a special tool to measure the belt tension. I had my 60k belt replacement done at the dealer for about $60 in labor. At 100k I used a krikit tension checker to tell me when to stop tightening the belt. Its kind of quirky to use and the tension it reads doesn't match what the FSM will say for the special dealer tool

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Do I really need the tensioner tool? I have been reading people's postings about how tense to make the belt so that it does not move more than 1/4". Any thoughts?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jshabouk View Post
Do I really need the tensioner tool? I have been reading people's postings about how tense to make the belt so that it does not move more than 1/4". Any thoughts?
You want 3 things when tensioning belts
- Not have the belts come off the pulleys while operating the vehicle.
- Not have them too loose so they squeel and get a glaze on them.
- Not have them be too tight and wear out the various pulley bearings and fatique the belts.

If a 1/4" deflection accomplishes that then use it.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04IntrepidSXT View Post
You want 3 things when tensioning belts
- Not have the belts come off the pulleys while operating the vehicle.
- Not have them too loose so they squeel and get a glaze on them.
- Not have them be too tight and wear out the various pulley bearings and fatique the belts.

If a 1/4" deflection accomplishes that then use it.
Exactly. I bought both types of Kricket and used them to the settings given in the FSM the last time I did my 2.7 belts, and I can tell you that the one for the alt/p.s. belt made it *way* too tight. I loosened it back to what seemed reasonable to me, and haven't had a problem, and that was several thousand miles ago.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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All,

I replaced the 2 belts this past weekend. For the A/C tensioner bolt, I got to it from the bottom of the car (it was on jack stands for the brake job already). Didn't even have to take off the air shield. That one was a piece of cake. For the Serpentine belt, it was slightly more painful. I unscrewed the upper radiator cross member, but could not get it odff because of 2 retaining clips near the front of it. No worries, they were attached to plastic brackets that gave enough to give me the clearance. Loosened the lock nut and used a socket wrench with an extension rod and a universal joint adapter to get to the tensioner bolt. Loosened it, took off old belt and tightened away. Using the 1/4" deflection rule for both belts was perfect. Put everything back together, started her up and went out for a drive to break in the new belts and brakes. Car ran quieter than she has in a long time.

I think this coming weekend, I'll check the belts again and see if the tensioners need adjusting after the belts are broken in.

Thanks again to all!!!

Joe
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 12:06 PM
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Glad everything went well for you Joe
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-14-2009, 08:37 PM
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Anyone know the part numbers for the belts? I'm going to replace both this weekend.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trinity61 View Post
Anyone know the part numbers for the belts? I'm going to replace both this weekend.
Dodge (OEM)
3.2L/3.5L
AC Drive Belt: 04663950
Alt/PS Drive Belt: 04573013AB

2.7L
AC Drive Belt: 04792071
Alt/PS Drive Belt: 04792070AB


NAPA
3.5L
AC Drive Belt: NBH 257550
Alt/PS Drive Belt: NBH 25060529

2.7L
AC Drive Belt: NBH 25060420
Alt/PS Drive Belt: NBH 25060630
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 09:15 PM
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Thank you. Are the NAPA belts just as good as the Mopar belts?
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2009, 01:28 PM
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Thank you. Are the NAPA belts just as good as the Mopar belts?
Well neither NAPA or Mopar make belts. They buy them from a dedicated belt manufacturer. Both NAPA and Mopar are supposed to sell good belts.
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