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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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electrical problems in my 2002 intrepid.

hello all,
i would like to explain what has been going on with my 2002 intrepid for about the past 2 years.
first off i do not know about cars that great in how to diagnose or repair them but i have been taking good care of my intrepid.
the problem are, sometimes the power windows work and sometimes they don't , example sometimes i start the car and they work and sometimes it doesn't, i never turn the car off with the windows down anymore because there is always a chance they wont go back up , recently i don't even use the windows any more i have to use the air conditioner or heater.
the power locks stopped working so i use my key now for everything.
my electric seat for adjustments works some days and some days it doesn't.
my turn signal did not work but i replaced the black box above the break peddle and now my turn signal works fine.
i can't activate the high beams anymore but i still have normal headlights.
the biggest problem, its really rare though. the car will not start at all , just no sounds or power at all when you put the key in the ignition.to fix that i just wait with time or i go under the hood and take out the fuses and put them back in ,same with the relays , then it will start again.
so i came here to ask why is everything electric dying in my car or just going on the fritz ?
is there anything i can do ? are all the relays going bad or could it be the ecm ?
i don't even know what a car repair shop would do if i told them about all these problems do you think they could fix it ?
thanks.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 06:37 PM
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I suspect the master power window switch on your drivers door is funked.

Power door locks not working is possibly Fuse 19. A 15A fuse in the Junction Block. Under the plastic cap at the drivers end of the dash or Circuit Breaker 2 CB2 in the same place.

Car been in a flood or the windows down and it rained heavily.

Maybe Body Control Module issues that relate to most of your listed problems.

Multifunction switch on Steering column for high beams not working or fuse 2/3 in Junction block at end of dash. Individual fuse for each high beam so I doubt fuses on this one.

No start could be bad electrical connections anywhere from the battery posts on out. You don't say what trim level the car is. SE/ES/RT/SXT. Does it have a security system?

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Last edited by Ronbo; 05-31-2017 at 05:50 PM.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 07:47 PM
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Good points as Ronbo pointed out.

Here's something that you can do yourself, (first remove the negative jumper post wire): remove your battery connections and thoroughly clean the posts and cable clamps. Next, go to the negative jumper post, and thoroughly all cable ends. Finally clean all the positive jumper cable ends. The nsee what happens.

Does the fuse legs in the fuse box look rusted?
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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i think it was an se,it has no special security system that i know of its just stock. i think i described the no start wrong, last summer it would no start a lot until i replaced the battery it was fine all year until this summer one year later the battery is getting weak again. it almost didnt turn over this morning .. ill just keep it charged all night or have to buy another battery soon.

ok thanks for listing all this stuff ill check all of these things and the cables.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 05:55 PM
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Is this a Northern car with salted roads in the winter?

Another thing to check is the braided cables between the Engine and body.

A Chris said...take all the battery connections apart and either clean them with a wire brush or sand paper.

The negative Jump post is the black cable going to the body strut tower on the passenger side.

If your battery is crapping out that explains the no start condition. However it doesn't explain the power door locks not working. What happens if you try the door lock/unlock switch on the front passenger side door?

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markak1344 View Post
hello all,
i would like to explain what has been going on with my 2002 intrepid for about the past 2 years.
first off i do not know about cars that great in how to diagnose or repair them but i have been taking good care of my intrepid.
the problem are, sometimes the power windows work and sometimes they don't , example sometimes i start the car and they work and sometimes it doesn't, i never turn the car off with the windows down anymore because there is always a chance they wont go back up , recently i don't even use the windows any more i have to use the air conditioner or heater.
the power locks stopped working so i use my key now for everything.
my electric seat for adjustments works some days and some days it doesn't.
my turn signal did not work but i replaced the black box above the break peddle and now my turn signal works fine.
i can't activate the high beams anymore but i still have normal headlights.
the biggest problem, its really rare though. the car will not start at all , just no sounds or power at all when you put the key in the ignition.to fix that i just wait with time or i go under the hood and take out the fuses and put them back in ,same with the relays , then it will start again.
so i came here to ask why is everything electric dying in my car or just going on the fritz ?
is there anything i can do ? are all the relays going bad or could it be the ecm ?
i don't even know what a car repair shop would do if i told them about all these problems do you think they could fix it ?
thanks.
Wonder if battery in key fob is dying? Might be why locks don't seem to work.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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my heater and air conditioner still works fine.
sometimes i hear a popping noise come from the roof when i activate the air conditioner idk what it is maybe its the moon roof trying to move, yea the moon roof just stopped working a long time ago.
Quote:
Wonder if battery in key fob is dying? Might be why locks don't seem to work.
i still have the spare fob that was never used i could try that
or i can open it and change the battery i haven't some other time.
the driver side and passenger controls for the windows and locks doesn't work.
Quote:
Fuse 19. A 15A fuse in the Junction Block. Under the plastic cap at the drivers end of the dash or Circuit Breaker 2 CB2 in the same place.
i checked fuse 19 and it was fine
i don't know what Circuit Breaker 2 CB2 is or i couldn't find it so i didn't check that.
the locks and windows don't work on the passenger side controls either .
Quote:
Another thing to check is the braided cables between the Engine and body.
i did not really check that
Quote:
Multi function switch on Steering column for high beams not working or fuse 2/3 in Junction block at end of dash. Individual fuse for each high beam so I doubt fuses on this one.
there was no fuses in 2 or 3 for some reason but i put them in and the high beams still do not activate.



i found rust on the batteries negative on the top left under the hood and i took the rust off.




i did not find any bad fuses or rust anywhere else .
could it be those black boxes or relays or switches that are bad.
i am also wondering could it be the rust on the ground of the battery that was causing it to drain ?
i used to be into car audio but i am not anymore so i have a volt meter and my voltages were ok. it only took 10 minutes or less to charge my battery.
engine not on

engine on



im just going to post some random pics.










and what is this piece and what is coming out of it ? its like crust forming on it.


Last edited by markak1344; 05-31-2017 at 11:12 PM.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 06:44 AM
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Rust on the ground connection would not cause battery drain. It causes a high resistance in the electron flow path which means a high voltage drop at that connection during high current demand, such as when starting the engine. With the rust removed and before re-assembling the connection, I would also recommend putting light to medium coating of silicon or axle grease on the mating and exposed metal surfaces of the connection.

That last photo is showing dried-up coolant residue. The coolant outlet housing (with the bleeder) is famous for failing and seeping or even dumping coolant. Replace it with an OEM one because the aftermarket ones are from an earlier inferior design and of inferior quality (they fail after a few weeks or months). You will need to get the housing *and* the metal pipe that plugs into it (comes together as one part number) because the bleeder was moved to the metal pipe (eliminating a major point of failure of the old design). The intake plenum will have to be partially removed (lifted up) or totally removed to R&R the housing. I recommend removal so you can vacuum the sand and grit off the top of the lower intake - if you don't, grit will get into the plenum gasket and could create an intake leak. Consider replacing the plenum gasket - inexpensive - Felpro or OEM only for gaskets.


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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 06:52 AM
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Also, flush your coolant system thoroughly and replace with distilled water and G05 antifreeze only - Chrysler/Mopar 100kmile Long Life (red), Zerex G05 (yellow), or Ford/Motorcraft Gold (VC-7-B) (yellow) are all G05.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 04:18 PM
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I was having an issue with a Trep that I picked up recently.
2004 SXT with just 22,800 miles. Just rolled over 24k at Dan's Spring Meet near Toledo, OH.

Every once in a while it would not turn over. However it would click.
Changed the battery and it was good for a while.
Swapped the starter relay and it was good for a while.

Yesterday I disconnected the negative cable at the strut tower.
There are two nuts. The lower nut was just a little loose (a tad bit).
Cleaned it up and tightened it back down.

No improvement. Just a click when turning the key.

Next I went to the positive cable connection (first, disconnected the negative cable again)
There are three nuts. The nut on the right side (as you're facing the bumper) had scorch marks
and the inner nut on the left side was just a little loose (like the negative connection).
Wire brushed everything and added a light coat of never-seize to the threads and mating surfaces.

Started up like it should.

I swore those connections looked perfect and the car just turned over 24k,
it's the last thing I looked at BUT should've been the first!!
You would think I'd know better after being on this forum for 11 years.
.
.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgs View Post
.


I swore those connections looked perfect and the car just turned over 24k,
it's the last thing I looked at BUT should've been the first!!
You would think I'd know better after being on this forum for 11 years.
.
.
I hear you on that one. Some things look fine but...

Keep the pictures coming and the progress. Do as PEVA says about the coolant. He KNOWS these 2.7's.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 06:45 PM
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With that last picture showing the Coolant Outlet Housing and the crusty coolant residue....I'd say you're on borrowed time before the top of the housing blows off or it springs a leak big time!

Peva...do you have the part number(s) for the updated housing/pipe for him?
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-02-2017, 12:00 AM
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Parts pdf's are here: 2nd Gen Parts Catalog

They changed the design (to the improved one with the bleeder moved to the metal pipe) in the later years, so I looked up the part in the 2004 parts PDF: 5017183AA - supersedes to 5017183AB - housing and metal pipe
(they also show a part number for just the housing with no bleeder - you need the one with the metal housing to get the bleeder)

Here's one on eBay - $71.80 w/free shipping: CHRYSLER OEM Cooling System-Water Pump Outlet 5017183AB | eBay
There are others - make sure it shows that the manufacturer is Mopar or Chrysler.


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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-02-2017, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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are you talking about this piece that has to be removed ?


i go to work everyday and my car starts fine its just in the morning the first start the battery is weak. i guess maybe its draining overnight but i don't know how nothing is on. i might just buy a new battery once a year if that is what i have to do. thats not really too bad.

thank you for the ebay link im going to buy that part.

Last edited by markak1344; 06-02-2017 at 12:26 AM.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 02:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgs View Post
.
I was having an issue with a Trep that I picked up recently.
2004 SXT with just 22,800 miles. Just rolled over 24k at Dan's Spring Meet near Toledo, OH.

Every once in a while it would not turn over. However it would click.
Changed the battery and it was good for a while.
Swapped the starter relay and it was good for a while.
I had an issue with the exact same symptoms. Single click from under the hood but no crank. It also had no lights dimming or any change in voltage measured from the OBD II connector. Which suggested to me that the starter itself wasn't drawing any current. Turn the key to start a few times would usually get it to work. It started really intermittently, but slowly started to happen more frequently. Ended up needing a new starter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markak1344 View Post
i go to work everyday and my car starts fine its just in the morning the first start the battery is weak. i guess maybe its draining overnight but i don't know how nothing is on. i might just buy a new battery once a year if that is what i have to do. thats not really too bad.
You shouldn't have a weak battery from just sitting overnight. It sounds like something is pulling power that shouldn't be. I suggest you perform a parasitic load test (or as chrysler calls it an Ignition-off draw test).

Here is the FSM procedure:



If I had to guess, some part of your stereo setup is drawing more current than it should while the car is turned off. Keep in mind just because something works and appears to turn off, there could still be some part of its internal circuitry that is not turning off like it should.
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