First limp mode, now no-start? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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First limp mode, now no-start?

2003 Intrepid SE/ 3.5/ still using 2.7 gears
I was driving home last night and as usual, I get 2 blocks from the house and something happened. I felt the trans kick down a gear or two and went into limp mode. I pulled the codes and got 0113 (iat), 0058 (02 sensor heater), 0700 (generic trans), 0715 (input speed sensor) and 0720 (output speed sensor).
I decided this morning to get more atf+4 and make sure my fluid level was good before looking any further. I go to Autozone (still in limp mode) and get fluid. I come out to restart the car and she won't crank or turn over. Dead silent. No movement or noise from the starter. In addition, the gearshift indicator on the dash shows ALL gears lit. PRND23
Checked fuses and relays including the ASD and SSR. All good.
Gave up and towed it home.

Whats the likelihood that the input and output sensors crap out at the same time?
Is the no start somehow related to the trans problems or is this a mere coincidence?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Never mind. Read a bunch of old posts and found the culprit.
One of the 2 fat grey wire harness connectors near the firewall on the drivers side had a broken latch clip and slid apart while I was driving last night just enough to lose connection to the speed sensors. Apparently my trip to Autozone loosened the connector even more, keeping it from starting all together.
I've got Gorilla Tape holding it closed until I can get another connector from the yard to splice in.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 05:57 PM
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I was going to suggest checking those connectors.

Any more limp mode? Driven it since taping the connector together?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, it did it again as soon as I hit the freeway and got up to 60 mph yesterday. Starts back up without a problem now, and I pulled the negative terminal for a while to get it out of limp mode. Clearly can't go over 50mph without triggering limp mode again. I bought the speed sensors this afternoon and I'm waiting for the temp to come down so I can change them out. It's at least 90 out there right now.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 03:32 PM
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You need to find out what's under the P0700 code. There'll be underlying codes under that don't show up with the key thingie. Need to get them read at Autozone, etc.

By disconnecting the battery you'll erase any stored codes. You should verify them again by driving until limp mode occurs again and check the codes. It's possible the Input/Output sensor codes popped up due to the connector coming apart. Might save you some time futzing with the I/O sensors for now.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 03:34 PM
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Hope it's not a P1776.

Last edited by Ronbo; 06-13-2017 at 04:39 PM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 09:33 PM
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What I've run into in the past is this; as soon as you go over 38 or so, it shifts into Drive and then when you come back down it goes into limp mode. There is a TSB about the tranny going into limp mode. You may have to change out the solenoid pack.

If I didn't go over 35 and the tranny never shifted into Drive, it would not go into limp mode.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 09:56 PM
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This is why I asked about "Real Codes" and not the Generic P0700 with the key thingy.

A P1776 will be the Solenoid Pack especially for 2002-2004 cars. Had it happen to me years ago on the Special after I owned it for a year and was out of town on a business trip in Memphis. That was an $800+ learning experience courtesy of the local dealer.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 09:58 PM
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When it started....everything was fine until I came off the highway and dropped to less than 40 mph. Then the clunk into limp mode. Happened twice that evening and then off to the local dealer it went.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I changed out both speed sensors this afternoon. Haven't had a chance to attempt forcing it back into limp mode yet.
If I have to go any further than work (only 3 miles) I take the Commander or the Town & Country instead of the Trep.

Yesterday it did the thing where it wouldn't start again. Been double checking wiring to see if I have a loose connection somewhere. I did notice that when it won't start (been 3 times now) the "key chime" from having the key in the ignition and door open doesn't sound. I walk away and come back 5 minutes later and it will start instantly.

I'll consider running it up to Autozone to get the trans code read. I wish my Bluetooth reader could do it because these parts stores here are notorious for refusing to do it. Last week I had to take the Commander 3 cities over to get to an Autozone that would pull the trans codes for me.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukas james View Post
...Yesterday it did the thing where it wouldn't start again. Been double checking wiring to see if I have a loose connection somewhere. I did notice that when it won't start (been 3 times now) the "key chime" from having the key in the ignition and door open doesn't sound. I walk away and come back 5 minutes later and it will start instantly...
One possibility (a shot in the dark): There's a connector that plugs into the electrical switch part of your ignition switch (inside the steering column), and I know I've read of at least a couple of instances where people had problems with the ignition switch, and it turned out that the connector on the ign. switch had worked it's way partially off of the switch (or someone had de-mated it and not fully re-mated it) to where it was making intermittent connection.

All the electrical connections for the ign. switch, including the START and KEY-IN SWITCH go thru that connector - it's pretty much the only thing common between those two wires - the two wires don't even go to the same computer - one goes to the BCM, the other goes to the PCM. See page 8W-10-17 of the '03 FSM - should be on or close to that page number for other year FSMs (regardless of year of FSM, should show up on the page listed for "Fuse J" in the Index of section 8W-10 - those circuits should not have changed across years).


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 08:24 PM
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Makes sense without the chime for the "Key in Ignition".

This is why you need to give all details regarding a problem when posting.

Maybe a Bad ignition switch? Not the key cylinder but the ignition electrical swith portion which can be replaced separately of the lock cylinder.

Last edited by Ronbo; 06-15-2017 at 08:29 PM.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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I found the cause of the random no start.
It's the green wire to the starter. The little clip connector is a bit loose and moves around during driving.
I feel foolish for not thinking of it first since:
a. I had the exact same problem after swapping out the first engine last year. (connector was dirty)
b. I had the same problem with the Commander the year before that. (connector was corroded)
and
c. Somebody on this site had the same problem last year and I diagnosed it for him instantly based on the same damn symptoms that have been staring me in the face for the last 2 weeks.

I'm splicing in a new one next off-day I get.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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A quarter mile of driving on wet pavement yesterday triggered limp mode again.
This the first time since installing new speed sensors.
I got the 700 again and 720, but no 715 this time.
I reset by disconnecting the negative terminal again, so I'll have to purposely trigger it again before I can get that 700 code read at the parts store.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 09:47 PM
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I wonder why you didn't get the "key-in with door open" chime when you had the no-start problem. Any ideas?
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