If I could jump in:
There could be two situations:
(1) The refrigerant leaked down to a low pressure, low enough for the pressure transducer to cause the PCM to prevent the compressor from coming on, but hasn't been leaking long enough to get down to zero pressure. *IF* that's the case, a new can of refrigerat will initially have more pressure than is in the system, and refrigerant will flow in, maybe enough to get above the low pressure lockout point and allow the compressor to turn on. If not enough pressure for the compressor to turn on, you can force it on by jumpering power to the compressor clutch so that it will pull more refrigerant from the can. It wouldn't take long to pressurize the system enough to where you can remove the jumper and the compressor would run based on the transducer seeing enough pressure to finish the job. You don't want to run it with the jumper connected with system fully charged or close to fully charged because it does periodically need to turn off when at full pressure.
(2) *IF* the system has a larger leak and/or has been allowed to leak all the way down, then you do not want to charge it up without first pulling a full vacuum on the system. That is because with it sitting at zero pressure, air and moisture will have infiltrated the system. Moisture is the number one enemy of the a.c. system. So if that is the case, you not only don't want to just charge it back up, you need to replace the receiver-drier, and then pull a vacuum and recharge.
In either case, you should put some PAG-46 oil into it to make up for some lost while leaking down. Maybe 1 to 1-1/2 ounces for scenario (1), and 1-1/2 to 2 ounces for scenario (2).
Of course, if it has a leak, that should be repaired. Also, whether or not the leak Is repaired, you should put some UV dye in the system so you can either find the point of the present leak, or in case of a future leak, find it.
I don't understand why it's spraying out at the connection unless your quick connect fitting or the port is damage (or the quick connect's o-ring is rotted or damaged). Nothing you've said so far explains the spraying at the port connection (unless as you said, you didn't have it fully pushed on).
Ron - If you disagree with anything I've said, let's discuss it. I could be wrong, or may have mis-understood something that was posted.
EDIT: Post nos. 4 thru 6 were posted while I was composing.
'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
Last edited by peva; 06-16-2017 at 05:59 PM.