which rotors do I need for 2002 SE? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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which rotors do I need for 2002 SE?

hello all,

I need new brake rotors for my 2002 SE (2.7 engine) and there's a bewildering array of choices on a well-known parts site (don't know if I'm allowed to give its name). Examples:

--rear: Raybestos professional grade for "originally equipped with noise dampening iron" (whatever that is);

--front: Raybestos professional grade for "4-wheel ABS "except performance package,"

some rotors are listed as having anti-corrosion coating. some rotors are listed for performance package, others are not. Can the performance rotors be used in a non-performance car, or are they a different size? (I'm taking a wild guess that my car and its weenie engine do NOT have performance brakes.)

finally, some caliper service kits include clips that resemble a flattened "S" -- two for each wheel. (see attached image, if I didn't screw up.) My car doesn't have them. Should they be there? and where do they go?

Also, my needs are standard daily driver -- nothing fancy.

All help appreciated. Thanks.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 06:07 PM
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Do you have steel wheels with wheel covers (Hub Caps) or Alloy wheels?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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I have alloys.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 07:15 PM
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You can use pretty much any of the rotors then. Includes PHP (Performance Handling Package) types. The diameters are all the same and will fit.

PHP rotors have cooling venting that goes out to the outside of the car and steel wheels interfere with that cooling.

Pick a set in your price range and buy them.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 10:16 PM
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Those clips are pad retractors - they add a little outward spring force on the pads to reduce drag when brakes are not applied. They are optional. I prefer them because of less brake drag - in theory, should be less heat and wear on pads and rotors, and improved gas mileage. I have seen comments in the past that people who are "performance" drivers notice a little more pedal travel to apply brakes, resulting in slight delay in onset of braking.

They only go on the front brakes - nothing like that on the rears. They permanently deform as pads and rotors wear (they compress/shorten as the pad backing plates move closer together as pads and rotors wear), so if you want to use them, new ones would need to be installed whenever rotors and/or pads are replaced.

From an old post, showing how they go on:
Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
From the thread I linked, here is what it looks like when properly installed. It's daunting enough rolling the caliper and pads in place and have everything end up right, and the clips on both ends add another level of difficulty. Sometimes takes me a couple or 3 tries. Just go slow. Gets better with practice:



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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Peva and Ronbo for your excellent information. I'm a longtime car guy, but my Intrepid (purchased last year) is my first Mopar product since my first car, a 1969 Dodge Coronet station wagon.

Loved the Coronet. Love the Intrepid. Its predecessor was a 1997 Olds Aurora, which had a sweet, all-aluminum DOHC V-8. But the Intrepid's other mechanicals are superior, despite it being a less expensive car.

P.S. Yes, I'll buy some new end clips for the brakes -- always liked jigsaw puzzles.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 08:01 PM
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Another thing to note is you should torque the lug nuts to the proper torque of 100 ft-lbs. Make sure you clean the surfaces on the inside of the wheels and the wheel hub. Wire brush works.

Seems early warping of rotors have been attributed to over torquing.

I've got a pair of generic PHP rotors on my 300m Special now for over 4 years with no issues. Bought them from Advance auto parts for around $25 each. I'm using Ceramic brake pads for low dust. I don't have the "W" clips on the calipers and don't have any squealing or other funky noises.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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more brake questions

first, an oddity: when I got ready to remove a front rotor, I discovered metal shims at the base of two of the five wheel lugs. They were thin, O-shaped, and sized so they screwed on to the studs (kinda like a speed nut -- not really formed threads). What would these be for? (To make sure I'm being clear -- the shims were sandwiched between the rotor and the wheel -- not between the wheel and the lug nuts.)

Also on one of my front brakes, the caliper apparently stuck and ground down one of the pads to metal-on-metal contact (ouch!). I am replacing the pads and rotors (on both front wheels), but wondering if I need to replace the caliper. I've put it through a couple cycles, using brake pedal to push the rotor in, then a C-clamp to squeeze it back out. The caliper seems to operate smoothly in both directions, and does not require unusual effort to retract it. The rubber boot also seems to be intact, but the boots for the sliding bolts have holes in them, and I'll be replacing them too.

When I install the new pads/rotors, I'm also going to install the spring thingies referenced earlier in this thread, which should -- in theory -- reduce the likelihood of the caliper sticking.

So: Plan A -- leave the caliper as is, and check fairly soon to see if it's sticking. Plan B -- get a caliper repair kit for around $1.50 (which replaces the piston seal and the boot). Plan C -- get a new/rebuilt caliper.

Recommendations?

By the way, wear on the pads at the rear wheels was normal. I'm replacing the pads, mostly so that I've got the same ceramic material on all four wheels, but leaving the rotors and calipers intact.

Thanks again for all input. Also, point well taken from previous poster re getting rid of rust on all mounting surfaces. I had one wheel that didn't want to come off, and one rotor that put up a really good fight because of corrosion around the hub surface. Tried PB Blaster, heat from a propane torch, slide hammer, and finally succeeded with a bearing puller.

Last edited by austinhealey; 06-18-2017 at 08:58 PM. Reason: made a mistake
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austinhealey View Post
first, an oddity: when I got ready to remove a front rotor, I discovered metal shims at the base of two of the five wheel lugs. They were thin, O-shaped, and sized so they screwed on to the studs (kinda like a speed nut -- not really formed threads). What would these be for? (To make sure I'm being clear -- the shims were sandwiched between the rotor and the wheel -- not between the wheel and the lug nuts.)
They put those tinnerman's nuts (for lack of a better name) on at the factory - my guess is to hold the rotor on on the assembly line until the wheels get put on. They probably get rapidly pushed over the threads up against the rotor for production efficiency (rather than spun on like a nut). They get discarded the first time anyone removes the rotor. That means your car is running with the original rotors? Amazing if so. How many miles on your car?

Quote:
Also on one of my front brakes, the caliper apparently stuck and ground down one of the pads to metal-on-metal contact (ouch!). I am replacing the pads and rotors (on both front wheels), but wondering if I need to replace the caliper. I've put it through a couple cycles, using brake pedal to push the rotor in, then a C-clamp to squeeze it back out. The caliper seems to operate smoothly in both directions, and does not require unusual effort to retract it. The rubber boot also seems to be intact, but the boots for the sliding bolts have holes in them, and I'll be replacing them too.

When I install the new pads/rotors, I'm also going to install the spring thingies referenced earlier in this thread, which should -- in theory -- reduce the likelihood of the caliper sticking.

So: Plan A -- leave the caliper as is, and check fairly soon to see if it's sticking. Plan B -- get a caliper repair kit for around $1.50 (which replaces the piston seal and the boot). Plan C -- get a new/rebuilt caliper.

Recommendations?
At the age of these cars, I would recommend new calipers. You can try to loosen them up, but like I said, at the age these cars are, replace.

You could rebuild and save money, but for the time, trouble, and mess of rebuilding, unless you're really stretched for cash, I'd replace the calipers. I nursed the ones along on both my Concordes for a few years, but they started getting worse again, and exercising them didn't help anymore. Eventually, it's time to replace. Start your new brakes off with a clean slate. NAPA has some good calipers, and no more expensive than the off-brand stuff that Advance sells (at least that was the case when I replaced mine 5 or 6 years ago). I'd get, not their cheapest, but the next step up in price.

Quote:
By the way, wear on the pads at the rear wheels was normal. I'm replacing the pads, mostly so that I've got the same ceramic material on all four wheels, but leaving the rotors and calipers intact.
Typical. The rear brakes don't see nearly the stress and heat that the fronts do.

Quote:
Thanks again for all input. Also, point well taken from previous poster re getting rid of rust on all mounting surfaces. I had one wheel that didn't want to come off, and one rotor that put up a really good fight because of corrosion around the hub surface. Tried PB Blaster, heat from a propane torch, slide hammer, and finally succeeded with a bearing puller.
Ron's advice on getting the rust off may have had more to do with not introducing wobble into the rotors. Think about it: A flake of rust between the hub and rotor (on one side and not all around) is going to tilt the rotor, and it will act like a warped rotor. Let's say the flake of rust is 0.008" thick. At the diameter of the hub, the tilt gets multiplied 2 to 3 times at the outer edge of the rotor, so you'll have 0.016 to 0.020" of runout. You'll feel that in your brakes, and it adds additional wear and stress to your brakes and suspension.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for more good advice. My 2002 Intrepid has less than 90k miles (confirmed w/ Carfax when I bought it), so original rotors seem plausible.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 06:26 AM
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You're welcome. It's tedious and frustrating getting those thin nuts off by turning them on the threads - it's not like you can remove them with a socket like with a regular nut. You can save a little time by spinning them away from the rotor a half inch or so (pry away from the rotor with a screwdriver enough to grip and turn with needle nose pliers) and then gripping them with a pair of pliers and twisting hard to break them off of the stud.

Last edited by peva; 06-19-2017 at 06:30 AM.
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