Engine Knock--- Oversized Rod Bearings - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Knock--- Oversized Rod Bearings

Hey guys, I've seen a bunch of posts about the possibility of replacing rod bearings to cure engine knock if the crankshaft isn't shot...my question is, do I want stock or oversize bearings to replace the old?

Is there any way to know which I'll need before my mechanic looks at the engine?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 11:08 PM
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The crankshaft will have to be measured to determine if you need stock or undersize (when concerning a crankshaft, undersize is used) bearings. It is likely damaged if there is a rod knock (along with the connecting rod).
Undersize bearings are meant to replace the stock size after a crankshaft grind is done, and they are usually -.001, -.010, or -.020.

If he is planning on just sanding and slapping a new set of bearings without removing and machining the crankshaft and rods, it will just be a band-aid at best. Could last a week, could last 6 months depending on the situation. To do it right, the engine should be disassembled, crankshaft measured and ground to bring it back into spec if needed, and the rod journals checked for out of round...and machined straight....which is a common occurence with a rod knock.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2009, 11:33 PM
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I've done the bandaide repair of just putting standard bearings in a 3.3... it has been a year, and the knock never went away... but it is SLOWLY getting worse...

What engine do you have? are you sure it is a rod knock?
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 01:06 AM
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The crankshaft will have to be measured to determine if you need stock or undersize (when concerning a crankshaft, undersize is used) bearings. It is likely damaged if there is a rod knock (along with the connecting rod).
Undersize bearings are meant to replace the stock size after a crankshaft grind is done, and they are usually -.001, -.010, or -.020.

If he is planning on just sanding and slapping a new set of bearings without removing and machining the crankshaft and rods, it will just be a band-aid at best. Could last a week, could last 6 months depending on the situation. To do it right, the engine should be disassembled, crankshaft measured and ground to bring it back into spec if needed, and the rod journals checked for out of round...and machined straight....which is a common occurence with a rod knock.
+1
Do it right like day said. Some things on a car you can band-aid and get by. The bottom end of your engine isnt really one of them.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies guys. It's a 2.7L with about 123,000 miles. I just got the water pump and timing chain replaced in August and had no sludge at that time (oil changes every 3,500 miles or so)

The knock sounds exactly like the clips on several youtube videos so that's what I based my idea that it's the rod bearings on.

What are the chances that my crankshaft hasn't been damaged yet? I had to make an emergency run across the state and put on 1,000 miles since the noise started...
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 01:58 AM
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If its knocking at all, and it is a rod bearing knock, not a collapsed lifter or something of the like, its about guaranteed that the crank is damaged.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha. Well, I read that it's quite an involved process to get the crankshaft repaired (or to get a new one installed)--- think it would be less than $1000 to get it fixed and the rod bearings replaced?

Thanks again for the very helpful responses!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 12:25 PM
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Gotcha. Well, I read that it's quite an involved process to get the crankshaft repaired (or to get a new one installed)--- think it would be less than $1000 to get it fixed and the rod bearings replaced?

Thanks again for the very helpful responses!
I just did my 01 SE with the 2.7. No sludge but a rod knock and the old style water pump and timing set.

A remanned crank from Advance Auto, water pump, timing set, piston rings, having the connecting rods checked out, all the gaskets, valve seals cost me about $1200-$1400.

So I would say doing it yourself and not having to replace your water pump and timing set you should be close to getting it done for less than 1K. Providing of course you do it yourself.
Oh if peva reads this he will recommend getting the parts from mopardiscountparts.com and he is correct. ;-) I bought everything but the crank from them. They have really good prices on their OEM parts.

Last edited by thepenguin40; 11-05-2009 at 12:29 PM.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I spoke with my mechanic who said he'd be glad to check it out...I saw it was 12.9 estimated labor hours for a crank replacement though!

I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to car repairs, but would this be something I could do myself? (Or with the help of a friend who does know more about engines?)

If there are at least some steps I could do myself and others that a mechanic should probably do, that would still help out (I'm a bit low on funds...right now I'm 50/50 between trying to fix it and scrapping it)--- even if it would take a week for me to do that would be okay. I do have access to a hoist.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 10:17 PM
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Well, I spoke with my mechanic who said he'd be glad to check it out...I saw it was 12.9 estimated labor hours for a crank replacement though!
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I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to car repairs, but would this be something I could do myself? (Or with the help of a friend who does know more about engines?)
That's what I did. I work with a friend who's quite the mechanic and between the 2 of us plus the help from everyone here. You can download the FSM from here which is awesome for the specs you will need to assemble the engine.

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If there are at least some steps I could do myself and others that a mechanic should probably do, that would still help out (I'm a bit low on funds...right now I'm 50/50 between trying to fix it and scrapping it)--- even if it would take a week for me to do that would be okay. I do have access to a hoist.
If you can turn a wrench you could work on the disassembling of the engine then have your friend put it back together.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 11:23 AM
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I have a 2000 Intrepid with 97k mi. and a 2.7L engine. It has been making tapping noises for a year but it finally got so bad I took it in to a local shop yesterday.

At first they thought it might be the chain tensioner or something up front, but they haven't gone in there yet.

They dropped the pan and inspected the rod and main bearings. The mains show no sign of wear, but the rod bearings are worn. Still have the silver color overall, and they didn't spin, so the crank is ok.

No sludge. Always used Mobil 1.

They are going to replace the rod bearings. I'll post an update next week.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 11:36 AM
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A remanned crank from Advance Auto, water pump, timing set, piston rings, having the connecting rods checked out, all the gaskets, valve seals cost me about $1200-$1400.
may i ask the price you paid for Advance Auto for the crank and bearing?

thanks
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
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Well, I spoke with my mechanic who said he'd be glad to check it out...I saw it was 12.9 estimated labor hours for a crank replacement though!

I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to car repairs, but would this be something I could do myself? (Or with the help of a friend who does know more about engines?)

If there are at least some steps I could do myself and others that a mechanic should probably do, that would still help out (I'm a bit low on funds...right now I'm 50/50 between trying to fix it and scrapping it)--- even if it would take a week for me to do that would be okay. I do have access to a hoist.
Definitely, if you dont have much experience yourself, get someone that does to help you. The 2.7 is not an engine to learn on, they are quite complicated and sensitive for the new mechanic. Pulling the engine is relatively easy with the right equipment, its doing a good tear down, inspection, and repair that takes the experience, if you want your efforts to be worthwhile that is. There are plenty of people here on the site that can help with that, so just ask!!
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 01:06 PM
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may i ask the price you paid for Advance Auto for the crank and bearing?

thanks
Hi Dalpaul, no problem after it was all said and done the crank and bearings came to $250 after getting back my core charge of like $50.

Last edited by thepenguin40; 11-20-2009 at 02:04 PM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 02:25 PM
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thanks.

nothing is cheap right now.
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