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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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heater blowing cold air please help

I just bought a 2004 dodge intrepid with 110,000 miles on it. Whe you turn the heater on it just blows cold air no heat. I thought it might be the thermastat but the car is not getting hot. any ideas?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 02:49 PM
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It could still be the thermastat. A bad thermastat dosen't allow the car to get up to operating temprature. Check to see that you have enough coolant, and that the air is bled out of the cooling system. If its still not getting warm change the themastat, its like $10 and easy as pie
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 02:50 PM
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By the ay, the air is bled by means of opening the bleeder valve that is on the thermastat housing. Do you really need heat in Kentucky?
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 03:04 PM
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By the ay, the air is bled by means of opening the bleeder valve that is on the thermastat housing. Do you really need heat in Kentucky?
My daughter goes to college in Columbia, Ky we live in Colorado. Right now it's 50 here with 16% humidity, in Columbia it's only 38 with 80% humidity. I'd say he needs a heater!!!
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 03:24 PM
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My daughter goes to college in Columbia, Ky we live in Colorado. Right now it's 50 here with 16% humidity, in Columbia it's only 38 with 80% humidity. I'd say he needs a heater!!!
Since I've been in Chicago all my life I don't even turn the heat on in the car until it gets to freezing. I guess the farther north you go the greater the tolerance.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by whateverittakes View Post
I just bought a 2004 dodge intrepid with 110,000 miles on it. Whe you turn the heater on it just blows cold air no heat. I thought it might be the thermastat but the car is not getting hot. any ideas?
I guess first things first do you have enough coolant..... Make sure is no coolant in the oil. If someone replaced the thermostat they could have put it in backwards.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I need heat. I will check this stuff then let you guys know Thanks for the quick reply
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 11:26 PM
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Check the coolant level as mentioned. If its low, and its a 2.7, check the water pump for leaks immediately. In fact, dont drive it until you know the water pump is good. Drive the car for at least 20 minutes, and come back and feel the hoses. Upper and lower radiator hoses should be hot, and both heater hoses should be hot.

If you have any cold hoses, the thermostat is sticking open. If all hoses are hot, then the problem is in the heating system. It could either be the blend door actuator, that opens/closes the hot/cold air door, or the heater core is plugged. Next step would be to remove the actuator, and manually move the door to the hot position. If you still have no heat, replace the heater core.

If its a 3.5, with 110K miles, it would be a good time to replace the timing belt/water pump unless you know its been done already.


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Last edited by Daytrepper; 12-21-2009 at 11:29 PM.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 08:25 AM
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Check the coolant level as mentioned. If its low, and its a 2.7, check the water pump for leaks immediately. In fact, dont drive it until you know the water pump is good. Drive the car for at least 20 minutes, and come back and feel the hoses. Upper and lower radiator hoses should be hot, and both heater hoses should be hot.

If you have any cold hoses, the thermostat is sticking open. If all hoses are hot, then the problem is in the heating system. It could either be the blend door actuator, that opens/closes the hot/cold air door, or the heater core is plugged. Next step would be to remove the actuator, and manually move the door to the hot position. If you still have no heat, replace the heater core.

If its a 3.5, with 110K miles, it would be a good time to replace the timing belt/water pump unless you know its been done already.
Follow Daytrepper info above...Don't forget to bleed the air out of it if you have to add any coolant.......If it is a 2.7 engine keep a close eye on the coolant level and oil level and oil consistancy....Just being about 1/2pint low on coolant will make it loose heat..

And WELCOME to another member from Kentucky....GO CATS!!

Good Luck!!
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 09:39 PM
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If it is a 2.7, be very gentle with that bleeder when opening and closing it. Only tighten it enough to totally shut it off - no more than that. The bleeder is a metal insert molded into the plastic housing and is famous for totally coming out of the plastic.

Last edited by peva; 12-23-2009 at 08:32 PM.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 08:19 AM
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I found that if you take the temp control and lower in down and then raise it up to HI that works for me. My door sicks not allowing heat into the car. when this didn't work I checked my heater core and it was plugged. Now I'm a older car type of person I know nothing of new cars. But I reversed the flow of the coolant and blew out the heater core. Old trick and it still worked....in this case.... hope it gets you warm...
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 10:13 AM
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How do you check the waterpump on a 2.7? and why would low coolant cause the heat not to work?
My hot air just started blowing cold as well. It will eventually start to blow hot but only after it has been driven for a while (much longer than normal). I think it might be the thermostat though because it does the same thing (the opposite) in the summer. In the summer the cold blows hot.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
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How do you check the waterpump on a 2.7? and why would low coolant cause the heat not to work?
My hot air just started blowing cold as well. It will eventually start to blow hot but only after it has been driven for a while (much longer than normal). I think it might be the thermostat though because it does the same thing (the opposite) in the summer. In the summer the cold blows hot.
There is a weep hole, at the lower left of the thermostat housing, if its leaking, water pump is gone. If there are no other leaks, no heat at slow speeds, or idle is a dead giveaway, that there is a water pump issue. Low coolant will cause no heat at idle...have it pressure tested to check the rest of the system for leaks, and if the water pump is found to be leaking, park it until it can be fixed...it can destroy the engine.

As far as checking the thermostat, feel the hoses after the temp gauge indicates normal temp. If the lower hose is cold, little/no heat, likely the thermostat is stuck open.


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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 07:49 PM
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...As far as checking the thermostat, feel the hoses after the temp gauge indicates normal temp. If the lower hose is cold, little/no heat, likely the thermostat is stuck open.
Open?
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 08:51 PM
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By the ay, the air is bled by means of opening the bleeder valve that is on the thermastat housing. Do you really need heat in Kentucky?
Man, I was trying to bleed my New Yorker....Man I'm an idiot....I even played around with that valve.
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