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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-29-2003, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Question oil pan gasket

I noticed an oil leak on my 2001 2.7.........turned out to be a leaking oil pan gasket (thank god).....anyways I took it to a shop near my work rather than the dealer because it was more convienient and besides my warranty ran out. Anyways, this is the 3rd gasket in 39k which is ridiculous, so after I had the job done I went to the dealer to complain....now the dealer says the gasket is a 2 hour job to replace, but it looks like the shop i took it to spent about 4 hours..($255 total for the job) I am just wondering if anybody has had this done at the dealers or else where and how long the labor was for?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-30-2003, 12:07 PM
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Pan gasket change

Dodge do quote 4 hours for a pan gasket change at my local dealer. The job itself is no more than 1.5 hours with oil filter removal and replacing all of the above.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-30-2003, 12:55 PM
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I've done it myself on a previous car I had. Its not too hard, as long as nothing is in the way of droping the oil pan. Just drain the oil, pull the pan down, clean it, add new gasget/rtv, put back up, add oil.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 04:02 PM
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What steps are needed to change the oil pan gasket?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99dodgeintrepid
What steps are needed to change the oil pan gasket?
I've never done it, so I can't comment on how hard it is, but here is what the shop manual says:

OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Remove dipstick and tube.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(4) Disconnect suspension stabilizer bar and reposition
for oil pan clearance. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/STABILIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove structural collar from oil pan to transmission
housing (Fig. 91).
(6) Remove lower bolt attaching the A/C compressor
to oil pan.
(7) Disconnect engine oil cooler line from pan (if
equipped).
CAUTION: Assure removal of the two bolts attaching
the timing cover to the oil pan, as damage to
the timing cover and/or oil pan may occur.
(8) Remove oil pan attaching fasteners. Remove oil
pan and gasket (Fig. 92).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean oil pan and sealing surfaces. Inspect oil
pan and timing chain cover gaskets. Replace as necessary.
(2) Apply an 1/8 inch bead of Mopart Engine RTV
GEN II to the front T-joints (oil pan gasket to timing
cover gasket interface) and the rear T-joints (oil pangasket to crankshaft rear oil seal retainer gasket
interface) (Fig. 92).
(3) Install oil pan gasket to block.
NOTE: To prevent oil leaks at oil pan to timing
chain cover, the following tightening sequence procedure
must be performed.
(4) Install oil pan and fasteners (Fig. 92) using the
following tightening sequence:
(a) Install oil pan bolts and nuts finger tight
onlyjust tight enough to compress the gaskets
rubber seal.
(b) Install timing chain cover to pan bolts and
tighten to 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.).
(c) Tighten oil pan bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.).
(d) Tighten oil pan nuts to 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.).
(5) Install lower bolt attaching the A/C compressor
to oil pan. Tighten bolt to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
(6) Connect engine oil cooler line to oil pan (if
equipped).
CAUTION: The collar must be tighten using the following
procedure, as damage to the collar or oil
pan may occur.
(7) Install structural collar (Fig. 91) using the following
tightening sequence:
(a) Install the vertical collar to oil pan bolts.
Torque bolts initially to 1.1 Nm (10 in. lbs.).
(b) Install the horizontal collar to transmission
bolts and torque to 55 Nm (40 ft. lbs.).
(c) Starting with the center vertical bolts and
working outward, final torque bolts to 55 Nm (40
ft. lbs.).
(8) Install oil filter and drain plug.
(9) Connect suspension stabilizer bar. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/STABILIZER BAR - INSTALLATION)
(10) Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick and
tube.
(11) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct
level.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2005, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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wow, old thread....well my car now has 84k and I haven't had a problem with it since. Nice to know that a non-dealer shop can do the job better than the dealer...
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2005, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99dodgeintrepid
What steps are needed to change the oil pan gasket?
Follow the instructions in the above posts! DO NOT forget the bolts that attach the pan to the timing cover!! I've heard of a couple people taking off all the others but forgetting these...expensive mistake! (broken timing cover)
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2006, 07:26 PM
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Finally some good info here. Thanks
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-20-2006, 09:04 PM
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Intrepid pan gasket

I just changed my gasket this week . Don't try this unless you have some mechanical abilities and and good set of tools . If you do try it , don't start with the big bolts because they are easy . Start with the 2 small bolts , in front of the pan / they are hard to see if you are alreay leaking oil / . Even if you could get those 2 bolts out , it is MUCH HARDER to get them back in .
If you can afford to pay for the work then pay for it .
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2006, 01:22 PM
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I don't know if anyone else would have this problem or not, but my oilpan is not removable without lifting the engine. Before I rebuilt mine I was going to just pull the pan and see how bad the mains were. Anyways it looked like the engine was just too damn far forward in the car. I had to really work to get those front two bolts out then once they were out there was no way of twisting and moving the oil pan that would actually let it come out.

After I had pulled the engine I inspected both motor mounts and the tranny mount. The tranny mount was busted and I think that was letting the engine rest more forward then it should have. I believe now that I would have had to loosen the tranny bolts at least 3/8s of an inch and back the tranny off.

The biggest problem was that the back of the oil pan would hit the bell housing on the tranny. Because of the oil pickup and stuff I would really deem it impractical if not impossible to pull my oil pan without pulling the engine.

Keep in mind I smashed a chevette at about 30 MPH a few years ago and my frame and stuff is not exactly spec, but I could not see any noticably bent frame components.

So at least for the 3.2 I would say good luck if you try to do this without lifting the engiune. If you just looked up the motor mounts and could lift the engine 1 or 2 inches I think that would do it.
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