Dipstick removal? Are 10mm required? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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Dipstick removal? Are 10mm required?

All,

I am almost complete with my cooling system rebuild. New pump installed, new water outlet housing, I have the new thermostat but the mother F&#*(@*(ing dipstick is in the way. I have already pulled the the altenator, and the bracket is a pain, but I can work around the damn dipstick with my hands. Does anyone have a quick and dirty way to remove it. My manual doesn't have a procedure and the only way I can tell is to drop the pan. I would really like to avoid that.

Thanks,

BDC

P.S. While a Glock 10mm might help us remove the dipsticks in Washington, it's meant to be a joke.... now smile........
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 08:17 AM
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Somewhere on the dip stick tube should have a 10mm bolt to remove then the dip stick tube can slide out of the pan. I looked in the FSM and it doesn't show how to remove but it says to remove the tube to avoid coolant entering the crank case.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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I already drained the motor of fluid through the plugs, etc when chaing out the H2O pump. I'm not so worried about the coolant, but I can't figure out how to pull out the dipstick.

My FSM says the same, but does say how. Any other Treppers know how to get the bloody thing off?


BDC
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 02:28 PM
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There in fact is a 6 mm bolt (takes 10 mm wrench) - look from the top - it's right there attaching the dipstick tube to a bracket coming off the head or valve cover - easy access - you'll see it.

The tube may be semi-jammed into the hole in the oil pan by accumulated impacted dirt/grit. Be prepared to replace the o-ring in case it gets damaged by the grit when you force the tube out of the hole. It can be hard to get out - try cleaning as much crap out from around the tube and between it and the hole before twisting and pulling - spray with brake parts cleaner, scrub with a brush, spray some more to flood as much away as you can. Hopefully none of the crud falls into the pan when you wrestle the tube out. Clean out the inside of the hole (trying not to knock any dirt into the hole) and around the base of the tube real well before putting it back in. (Inspect the o-ring for damage.)


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Last edited by peva; 07-18-2010 at 02:35 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Got it, my bracket is attached to the bracket with a 13mm bolt. After removing the bolt the stick pulled right out. Thermostat installed... Woohoo.... now off to get a Miller tool and a couple of hose clamps. I am replacing the gosh darn spring clamps on the heater core hose with some old fashioned screw tights. It will make it easier to remove that little hose next time.

Turn out in my case the thermostat was the problem with the over heating that caused the wateroutlet to blow it's top. I replaced the water pump too while doing the hole system given their problems. Good thing too since the O-ring was rotten and just a few miles from failure.

I should have her buttoned up tomorrow and be running back down the road tomorrow. Woo hoo!


BDC
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
There in fact is a 6 mm bolt (takes 10 mm wrench) - look from the top - it's right there attaching the dipstick tube to a bracket coming off the head or valve cover - easy access - you'll see it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Daddy C View Post
Got it, my bracket is attached to the bracket with a 13mm bolt. After removing the bolt the stick pulled right out...
Argh! I just went out and looked - you're right. I was working from memory - always risky. Glad the tube wasn't impacted with grit.

On the hose clamps, while the factory spring clamps can sometimes be hard to get the proper grip on for removal, I much prefer them otherwise. They maintain a constant spring pressure regardless of the hose material taking a set or whatever - they are *way* less likely to start leaking over time because of that. Screw clamps are tightened to size, so as the rubber creeps and takes a set, the clamp loosens. If you overtighten to allow for that, you risk the edges of the clamp cutting thru the wall of the hose, or the threads of the screw part stripping - BTDT.

One tool I don't have is a cable operated spring clamp tool - has compact jaws to reach around to grab the ears on the spring clamps. I must get one of those.

Not saying don't use the screw clamps. Just offering something to consider. Do what works for you.


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