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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Picture of Jack Stand and Floor Jack locations

I am 100% new to doing work on my car and I don’t know what the correct terminology is for most of this stuff so please excuse my ignorance.

I would like to do my brakes; however, I have been scared of jacking my car in the incorrect spot and crushing something important or using an unstable location. I have searched this forum several times now over the last week and I’m no more confident than when I started. I have heard these terms used in describing viable locations for jack stands: engine cross member, engine cradle, mounting structure, and radius arms, but none of those terms mean anything to me and no one seems to have posted any pictures.

I’m attempting to embed a picture with this post pointing out 4 locations that I was hoping I might be able to use for floor jacking and jack stands.
a) A rubber like donut with a bolt in the middle of it in front of the passenger side front wheel… this so far appears to be the best height for me to use my current 3 ton jack stands as it’s the tallest point.
b) A long metal section runs along the passenger side of the engine compartment
c) A rubber like donut with a bolt in the middle of it behind the passenger side front wheel (this I suspect is the location the service manual is referring to as an acceptable jack point but that picture was super vague and I have no way to confirm that… plus my jack stand is too tall to get in under that.)
d) A long metal bar that appears to be hollow running parallel to the radiator just in front of the oil pan.



For each of the 4 points I’ve indicated in the picture could someone tell me the following:
• What is the correct terminology/name to refer this part/section?
• Is this a good position to use a Floor Jack?
• Is this a good position to use a Jack Stand?

Can I use my floor jack on the pinch weld without bending the pinch weld into oblivion?

If my picture doesn’t get uploaded correctly could someone please upload one indicating points it’s ok to use a floor jack and jack stands?

Please note that I’ve got 3 ton jack stands that are too tall to fit where the service manual indicates so if I could use them further towards the front engine compartment area that would be great.

Last edited by imd14u2c; 09-05-2010 at 05:42 PM.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 05:35 PM
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The metal frame member infront of the oil pan is where I currently have my Intrepid jacked from, with stands under the "rubber donuts with the bolt in the middle" behind the wheel. Any of those that you listed are good to lift from - but the metal frame along the engine compartment is harder for ME to get to... but any of those you listed are fine points to lift from. The only things you would NOT want to lift from would be the painted body colored metal parts under and around the engine, and any where under the doors - especially if you have body cladding.



Just so you know, A and C are sub frame mounting points, and the donuts are the busihings. B and D are the sub frame.

Along the underside of the car, extending from point C straight to the back is a unibody frame member, and this is a fine point to lift from also if you need to lift one whole side or need to lift at the rear.

Last edited by cdmccul; 09-05-2010 at 05:40 PM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 05:35 PM
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What year car do you have?

BTW, in order to post the picture you had, you have to use [img] (link) [/ img] (remove the space) and then the "link" needs to be what ever the address is when you right click and choose "Properties". For your pic, you chose, I right clicked on the little red "x" box, got the properties of the box, then followed that link to the site, then right clicked on the pic and got the link from THOSE properties. What I got was "ht tp://i52.tinypic.com/2hgtnw2.jpg".

Last edited by cdmccul; 09-05-2010 at 05:43 PM.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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CDMCCUL thanks for the info. It's a 99. I edited my original post with the url directly to the .jpg as you indicated.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 09:32 AM
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So where in the picture above would be the best place for 3 -ton Jack stands if you were changing the struts?
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 12:13 PM
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I usually place them just to the rear of where you marked B, if your stands are the typical shape |______| use a small block of wood or heavy rubber pad between it and the car. You don't want the car balancing on just one of the tips of the stand.

B and C in your picture are referred to as the sub frame or engine cradle. You can use a floor jack anywhere on the cradle.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 10:10 PM
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So I will go in from the front with the floor jack about to where thre letter B is and put the jack stands between the floor jack and the letter C bushings but not on the bushings.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 12:49 AM
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I generally just snap my jacks just behind the lip along the bottom of the side of the car, IE where the service manual suggest. With your unique situation, you can raise the car with the factory jack high enough for your jack to take over.

Alternatively, Anywhere along the structure you have marked will work, that is called the engine cradle/sub frame.

Throw your E-break on and throw anything behind the back tires so it cannot roll forwards or backwards.

I don't however suggest putting anything on the mount-bushings which you've marked as A and C. Just a recipe for trouble.

As far as working on your breaks, if your only installing new rotors and/or pads, very easy job. Get a socket with a 10MM bit and remove the two bolts on the caliper rear, you'll recognize them by the rubber-spring looking bushings. Just use a hammer or pry bar to work them off, as some breaks I've seen can be wore so bad and have an ENORMOUS lip to overcome on the edge of the rotor.

Ensure the bushings on the caliper (rubber spring looking thing where the bolt went through) can be pushing back and forth, if they are seized you'll need to break them loos and grease them. These not moving will result in poor break performance, chattering and and accelerated ware.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT6INTREPID View Post
I generally just snap my jacks just behind the lip along the bottom of the side of the car, IE where the service manual suggest. With your unique situation, you can raise the car with the factory jack high enough for your jack to take over.

Alternatively, Anywhere along the structure you have marked will work, that is called the engine cradle/sub frame.

Throw your E-break on and throw anything behind the back tires so it cannot roll forwards or backwards.

I don't however suggest putting anything on the mount-bushings which you've marked as A and C. Just a recipe for trouble.

As far as working on your breaks, if your only installing new rotors and/or pads, very easy job. Get a socket with a 10MM bit and remove the two bolts on the caliper rear, you'll recognize them by the rubber-spring looking bushings. Just use a hammer or pry bar to work them off, as some breaks I've seen can be wore so bad and have an ENORMOUS lip to overcome on the edge of the rotor.

Ensure the bushings on the caliper (rubber spring looking thing where the bolt went through) can be pushing back and forth, if they are seized you'll need to break them loos and grease them. These not moving will result in poor break performance, chattering and and accelerated ware.
The brakes were just changed about a month ago, so the calipers should come off pretty easy I think.

I'm going to change the front struts. This is the floor jack I got, plan on going in from the front, I should be able to get it in far enough to get a good lifting point plus have room to throw my jack stands under.

http://www.wayfair.com/Powerbuilt-40...2-YWR1014.html
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 12:16 PM
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I may be sounding really dumb here , but I always thought that the front jack point was rt.
behind the front wheel just inboard about a ft. where the floor is formed into a flat area.

Then I put the jack stand under the front sub frame.

The rear I lift where the front of the trailing arm attaches to the body.
These fours spots to me make sense as to how it would done on a lift.

I hate to see a Tech get in a hurry and pick any car by the rocker panels.

Last edited by ncfrc; 11-14-2013 at 12:31 PM. Reason: ----------------------------------------------
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 12:30 PM
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncfrc View Post
...The rear I lift where the front of the trailing arm attaches to the body...
Make sure the jack is under the part of the bracket that acts like a doubler plate with the car body just forward of the part of the bracket that covers the pivot point. The cover over the pivot point can't support the weight and crushes like an eggshell. Ask me how I know! (If you do that, you can pry the cover back away from the trailing arm with a stout screw driver so it doesn't rub. It won't be as pretty as it once was, but it won't rub when the trailing arm moves.


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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 02:07 PM
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Make sure the jack is under the part of the bracket that acts like a doubler plate with the car body just forward of the part of the bracket that covers the pivot point. The cover over the pivot point can't support the weight and crushes like an eggshell. Ask me how I know! (If you do that, you can pry the cover back away from the trailing arm with a stout screw driver so it doesn't rub. It won't be as pretty as it once was, but it won't rub when the trailing arm moves.

Pivot point??? you mean the cradle bushing marked C in the picture? Don't put the floor jack on that? I hope they don't go on that. Seems it would mess them up for sure.

I wish someone had actual pictures of where to put a floor jack, then where to slide the jack stands in at.. ???

Last edited by JimboChap; 11-14-2013 at 02:13 PM.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimboChap View Post
Pivot point??? you mean the cradle bushing marked C in the picture? Don't put the floor jack on that? I hope they don't go on that. Seems it would mess them up for sure.

I wish someone had actual pictures of where to put a floor jack, then where to slide the jack stands in at.. ???
I'm pretty sure he is talking about jacking up the rear end of the car. The "pivot point" he is talking about is where the trailing arm connects to the frame rail in the rear.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ronbiggs View Post
I'm pretty sure he is talking about jacking up the rear end of the car. The "pivot point" he is talking about is where the trailing arm connects to the frame rail in the rear.
You are correct.
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