Not difficult to replace the pan - like anything else, you follow the FSM procedures one step at a time. Follow specified torques and order of tightening. No real surprises. The 6mm bolts at the very front (just under the damper pulley) are a little tricky to get in and out (tight space for fingers - important thing is not to cross-thread them when re-installing - you're threading into aluminum). You'll need a very small quantity of silicone sealer.
Will have to move sway bar either by removing sway bar bushing bracket bolts and sliding it, or disconnect one end of each end link and rotate - that will clear the way for the rearward end of the pan to drop down and out,
On the O.S. plugs - go to your local parts store and find their peg board with oil pan drain plugs - you will find them (M14-1.5 O.S.). Not saying it is the *best* solution - they sometimes leak, but are the easiest fix. First time in, do it w/o the gasket and screw it in until it hits hard resistance (that cuts the new partial threads past the gasket seating point so that with the gasket in place, you know the increase in torque as you tighten is seating against the gasket and not just hitting uncut thread area). Then remove and put gasket in. Be aware that it is not cutting full threads - only partial-depth threads, so they are not as strong as the original threads that already failed. When tightening, snug it up, but not much tighter than that. If you can substitute a gasket that isn't quite as hard, the chances of it not leaking will increase.
'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
Last edited by peva; 11-03-2010 at 06:43 AM.