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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Stripped Oil Pan Threads - Recommendations?

Did an Oil change today...and realized the oil pan thread is stripped. Not the plug So I was doing a little research and thinking about some of the following options.

A: Oversized Drain Plug

B: Taperd Self Threading Plugs? (Cant seem to find any online)

C: Rubber/Expandable Plugs

D: Thread Repair (Almost Last Resort)

E: New Oil Pan/Gasket (LAST Resort)

Any experiences, recommendations?

Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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98 Intrep 2.7 and she is leaking! (Sounds like a personal problem)
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 10:57 PM
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Garage
Do it right....new oil pan.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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The shop manual makes pan replacement look easy! Any experience doing it DT?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010, 06:39 AM
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Not difficult to replace the pan - like anything else, you follow the FSM procedures one step at a time. Follow specified torques and order of tightening. No real surprises. The 6mm bolts at the very front (just under the damper pulley) are a little tricky to get in and out (tight space for fingers - important thing is not to cross-thread them when re-installing - you're threading into aluminum). You'll need a very small quantity of silicone sealer.

Will have to move sway bar either by removing sway bar bushing bracket bolts and sliding it, or disconnect one end of each end link and rotate - that will clear the way for the rearward end of the pan to drop down and out,

On the O.S. plugs - go to your local parts store and find their peg board with oil pan drain plugs - you will find them (M14-1.5 O.S.). Not saying it is the *best* solution - they sometimes leak, but are the easiest fix. First time in, do it w/o the gasket and screw it in until it hits hard resistance (that cuts the new partial threads past the gasket seating point so that with the gasket in place, you know the increase in torque as you tighten is seating against the gasket and not just hitting uncut thread area). Then remove and put gasket in. Be aware that it is not cutting full threads - only partial-depth threads, so they are not as strong as the original threads that already failed. When tightening, snug it up, but not much tighter than that. If you can substitute a gasket that isn't quite as hard, the chances of it not leaking will increase.


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Last edited by peva; 11-03-2010 at 06:43 AM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010, 04:16 PM
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Had good luck on friends 2.7 with oversize plug and install as Bill outlined.
Added note.
Pressureize the crankcase with a shiop vac. Blow into the oil fill while threading in the O/S plug the first time. Any chips/cuttings will blow out instead of laying in the pan.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firem View Post
Added note.
Pressureize the crankcase with a shop vac. Blow into the oil fill while threading in the O/S plug the first time. Any chips/cuttings will blow out instead of laying in the pan.
This is a good idea. You could also pour the "clean" used oil back in to help push any chips out. (Note the emphasis on clean. If you drain your oil into a dirty pan, this would not be a good idea.)

For those who aren't afraid to spend money, use new (but cheap?) oil as a "chaser".

Last edited by 98IntrepidTan; 11-04-2010 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Fixed my mangled quoting
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 10:24 AM
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same thing happened to me and i just heli-coiled it...
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the imput guys...looks like I am going to go with the rubber plug on a temporary basis. I have some vacation time at the end of the month and will most likely redo the oil pan at that time. Anyone know where I can get some discount oil pans? Already checked the scrap yards in my area...cheapest I can find is about 50.00. Gasket too...
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaaqeel View Post
same thing happened to me and i just heli-coiled it...
Would it be correct to say that you had to remove the pan to helicoil it? If not, how did you manage to drill and tap for the helicoil?

I love the idea of helicoiling, but unfortunately it appears that you have to remove the pan to have clearance - engine cradle side piece is in the way.
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