where thermostat located on a 2002 dodge intrepid 2.7? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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where thermostat located on a 2002 dodge intrepid 2.7?

where is the thermostat located on a 2002 dodge intrepid 2.7

Ive read a few sites that say they are on the intake side, are they really one the intake side? And not the return side, like they are normally located at?

I know they aren't the best places for answers but, that's why I came here (I also have another questions) so its it really on the lower Intake hose and not the top return hose where it normally would be? It doesn't make much sense to have the cooler side have the thermostat.

Edit: To be more specific Ive read that's underneath the vehicle, driver side. And not On the upper portion of the engine.

Last edited by Age; 11-15-2010 at 02:29 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 05:54 AM
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Yep - access from underneath on driver's side - just rearward of the alternator. Supposedly, Chrysler determined that having the t-stat on the inlet side gives a tighter temperature regulation (for emissions). You have to admit that when things are working right, the temperature gage is amazingly stable on our cars under all situations and thermal loads.

Last edited by peva; 11-15-2010 at 05:57 AM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 06:41 AM
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Yea, get up under the car on the drivers side and follow the hose up to the motor. It's a complete PITA to get to.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Do I Really need to remove a bunch of things just to access it? One of the sites say this:

1.. Disconnect negative cable from remote jumper terminal.
2.. Drain cooling system
3.. Remove the engine oil dipstick and tube. To prevent coolant from
entering engine, cover the dipstick tube opening in crankcase with a
suitable plug.
4.. Raise vehicle on hoist.
5.. Support the engine and remove the left engine mount
6.. Remove generator support strut.
7.. Disconnect generator electrical connector.
8.. Remove the transaxle dipstick tube bracket attaching bolt.
9.. Remove the lower heater hose tube bracket bolt.
10.. Remove the lower heater hose from thermostat housing.
11.. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
12.. Remove thermostat housing bolts
13.. Remove thermostat and housing.

however this one say this:

1
Raise your Dodge Intrepid with a jack and lower onto jack stands, or use wheel ramps. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Open the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and drain the coolant into a suitable container. Reuse the coolant if relatively new and clean.

2
Follow the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing in all engine types except the 2.7L. In Intrepids with 2.7L engines, follow the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Loosen the hose clamp at the end of the radiator hose with a screwdriver and pull the hose off the thermostat housing.

3
Unbolt the two bolts holding the thermostat housing cover on and pull off the cover. In 2.7L Intrepid engines, it is easier to gain access to the thermostat housing behind the alternator by working from beneath the engine.

4
Note the position of the old thermostat and remove. Install the new thermostat with the spring-side facing into the engine. Clean any old gasket residue from inside the thermostat housing cover. Install the new thermostat gasket.

5
Reinstall the thermostat housing cover and tighten bolts to 105 inch/pounds. Reattach the radiator hose and tighten the hose clamp. Refill the radiator with reserve or new coolant. Reattach the negative battery cable.

6
Start your Dodge Intrepid and allow it to run with the heater on high until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check radiator hose for leaks and tighten the hose clamp to stop any leaks, if necessary


(cant post links yet so I have to post what they said)

I'm guessing the second one that I posted is the most correct a best way (not to mention the easiest) to do it, but will I STILL need to remove anything? I ask because the second one doesn't mention the removal of anything. Aside from the thermostat housing and hose and the fluid of course.

And how to I can I tell if its 105 inchs pounds? Its there a socket wrench I can get that not going to burn a hole in my pocket or an attachment I can put on my current? Normally I just tried to remember how much force it took to get it off then try to put it back on with the same brightness.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 09:09 PM
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uh yea, do the 2nd one. I found that it was much easier to remove the radiator side hose clamp (I assume you are replacing) if I removed the drivers side headlight.

You'll want to bleed the coolant system afterword as well.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Age View Post
Do I Really need to remove a bunch of things just to access it? One of the sites say this:

1.. Disconnect negative cable from remote jumper terminal.
2.. Drain cooling system
3.. Remove the engine oil dipstick and tube. To prevent coolant from
entering engine, cover the dipstick tube opening in crankcase with a
suitable plug.

4.. Raise vehicle on hoist.
5.. Support the engine and remove the left engine mount
6.. Remove generator support strut.
7.. Disconnect generator electrical connector.
8.. Remove the transaxle dipstick tube bracket attaching bolt.
12.. Remove thermostat housing bolts
9.. Remove the lower heater hose tube bracket bolt.
10.. Remove the lower heater hose from thermostat housing.
11.. Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
13.. Remove thermostat and housing.


And how to I can I tell if its 105 inchs pounds? Its there a socket wrench I can get that not going to burn a hole in my pocket or an attachment I can put on my current? Normally I just tried to remember how much force it took to get it off then try to put it back on with the same brightness.
the ones marked in red are the ones i do for this job. IMO it is much easier to do in the order i have above. BTW if noone has mentioned it is a PITA

You will need a torque ratchet to get the most accurate reading other wise it is very easy to strip the bolts
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 10:15 PM
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Also I think the thermostat has a specific orientation because of a bleed hole. If you don't line that up right, I think filling in the coolant through the pressure bottle won't let coolant enter the engine block... (Although if u did forget about this orientation thing, you can just dump enough coolant into the block through the upper raidator hose so that when the engine is hot enough, thermostat will open and bleeding can start).
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 08:32 PM
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I know this is an old post, but maybe I can help a current reader.

I just changed the one on m 2004. It was a pain! The car was over heating on the highway. The heater would cool it down.

- You don't need to take off the motor mount or alternator strut like the manual says.
- You need to remove the dipstick tube, and the bolt that holds the steel heater tube.
- I broke my therm. housing trying to get the heater hose off. Suggest you cut it off and replace it.
- Suggest you cut the spring clamps off with a dremel type tool. You won't get pliers up in that little space.
- Also suggest you use a 1/4" drive swivle socket and the "wobble" type extensions to reach the bolts.
- If you leave the heat sheild on, put tape over it's sharp edge. Ouch!
- When reassembling, use the heater hose to hold housing in place.

Good luck.
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