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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Battery Light On?

Had the alternator checked 3 times, Passed all 3 times, New battery installed. But the Battery light is still on?? also im leaking a ton of coolant on the drivers side of the motor near the cat/starter area (running down side of block it looks like) i replaced ALL of the heater and radiator hoses and still have the leak!! any help or direction would be great! thanks guys!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 02:35 PM
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Battery light: Check the green fusible link that connects the alternator and battery (splits off of the positive cable near the battery). They sometimes get corroded in two from battery acid. Otherwise, check all connections of battery, alternator, and PCM. A real simple check is to measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be above 13.5 volts with the engine slightly above idle. If lower than that, then the problem is in the charging or in that alternator-to-battery connection.

Coolant leak: Is the metal pipe that connects the coolant reservoir to the thermostat housing corroded thru? Also, the short (3-4" long) piece of heater hose that makes the connection of that pipe to the thermostat housing can give problems.


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Last edited by peva; 11-27-2010 at 02:38 PM.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 10:22 PM
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Do you know how to check for codes?
Turn the key to the ON position three times and the third time, leave it in the ON position.
The codes will show in the odometer display;
first a line of dashes, then the codes followed by " done ".
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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its not throwing any codes,but this conversion has neen a 6 week $2000 nightmare, so i think im just gonna park it and say **** it. id rather throw more money that i dont have at a beater then to keep working my fingers to the bone on this p.o.s. mos. def. at my witts end right now!
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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ok UPDATE: My code reader showed ZERO codes but the key trick showed P1684 whatevr solves that im not sure. weird how my reader didnt show anything.??
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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WOW FML!! Just took it for a drive up the street now its stranded in the middle of the fing road and throwing ahand full of codes!!!! p1684, p0122, p0106, p1496, p0405
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 05:23 PM
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I think that's battery disconnected in the last 50 starts.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Battery light: ...A real simple check is to measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be above 13.5 volts with the engine slightly above idle. If lower than that, then the problem is in the charging or in that alternator-to-battery connection...
So you did or did not do that yet?
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdirtman330 View Post
WOW FML!! Just took it for a drive up the street now its stranded in the middle of the fing road and throwing ahand full of codes!!!! p1684, p0122, p0106, p1496, p0405
I would test the voltage like PEVA is talking about.
Then take a look at these threads when you get a chance:
... Car idles but dies when gas is pressed. Codes listed inside. Help!
... 98 Intrepid idles fine but dies with gas.
... Ack- Help!! 98 Intrepid 2.7 suddenly quit

You can ignore P1684, it's just telling you that you've had the battery disconnected recently.

Last edited by tgs; 11-29-2010 at 01:14 AM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 08:10 AM
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P0106-MAP SENSOR PERFORMANCE
When Monitored: With engine speed greater than 64 RPM idle and closed throttle.
Set Condition: Too small of a difference is seen between barometric and MAP pressure
with ignition on (engine running) and manifold vacuum for 2.80 seconds.

P0122-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR #1 LOW
When Monitored: With the ignition on. Battery voltage greater than 10 volts.
Set Condition: Throttle Position Sensor voltage at the PCM is less than 0.0978 of a volt.
One Trip Fault.

P0405 - EGR POSITION SENSOR LOW
When Monitored: With the ignition on. Battery voltage above 10.0 volts.
Set Condition: EGR Position Sensor Signal is less than 0.1026 of a volt. One trip Fault.

P1496 (M) 5 Volt Supply, Output Too Low
5 volt sensor feed is sensed to be below an acceptable
limit. ( < 4v for 4 sec ).

Aren't you the guy that did the engine swap and hooked up the electrical wrong and fried some wiring? If you haven't checked the charging voltage at the battery as Peva outlined then there's really no point in going further. I'm going to bet you fried the PCM and some wiring or more.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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alright guys the volt meter is reading 13 i got the care started and driving the sensor wires that is on the the top of the ac compressor was pintched and shorting out the system. but the battery light is still on??
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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now the battery is at 10-11 volts, i fired it up with a fully charged battery and let it run with the radio and lights on and sure enough it started dropping....
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:29 PM
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We can't troubleshoot it remotely. Someone has to be there to troubleshoot it. Ronbo may be right - you may have damaged something (like the PCM). Otherwise, alternator or wiring,
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 08:45 PM
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SSR Fuse in under hood fuse & relay center. 20 AMP Fuse T marked 02 SSR controls field signal from PCM to ALT
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firem View Post
SSR Fuse in under hood fuse & relay center. 20 AMP Fuse T marked 02 SSR controls field signal from PCM to ALT
After looking at the schematics, I would say that that right there is very important information. Bob is right. Check fuse T.
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