friday, with cdmccul's help (TYVM),
Happy to be of help.
Bottom Bearing (Cap side)
Both bearings, (top is Cap Side)
Top Bearing (Rod Side)
close up of Top Bearing (Rod Side) of the "Gouge/Groove" in it
Yup, them bearings are worn... The question still remains - why did they wear like that with a used crank so recently installed...
now, the ONLY time that the Oil light flickers, is if i'm in DRIVE, Brakes Applied, and RPM's BELOW 600, never does it above 600, and i have noticed the RPMs wants to "Jump" up and down by 50-150 when stopped like this, still has a "LITTLE" bit of knock in it, but i'm hoping that getting the other bearings changed will stop that.
The RPM jumping up and down indicates to me that there is a secondary problem. possibly was an underlying cause of the bearing failure, but I wouldn't assume that right off. I'd check operation of the EGR and IAC first, and see if cleaning them helps at all. I'd start with the IAC first out of the two - easiest to get to and clean.
here are my few questions?.....
1) What should the idle in drive, brakes applied, be at?
My understanding is between 5 and 600 - but wait for someone with a healthy running 2.7 to chime in for sure. Just to confirm, you are looking for hot idle, not cold.
2) 2nd bolt on #2 rod cap has started stripping, what is best way to get it off now? (going to go to pick-a-part and pull all rod cap bolts from and junker just in case any others start to strip)
Again, to confirm, you are talking about the bolt HEAD stripping (rounding), not the threads stripping. According to our trusted 2.7 expert (ha!), you have to use a BRAND NEW 11mm SHALLOW socket each time you unbolt a set of rods from a 2.7. He's got like twenty 11mm sockets in his tool box that are used, and the used ones will almost always round off a head on the 2.7. Go to Sears or K-Mart and buy yourself a brand new 11mm shallow 3/8 drive Craftsman socket. THEN, also go get a 'Bolt out" set remove that rounded head. A 'bolt out' extractor has gripping teeth that will grab hold of the metal of the head. This eBay auction
contains what you want, Autozone and the ilk will carry them, as well as Craftsman.
3) Can i change MAIN bearings w/o taking out the crank?
Yes, this can be done... I have done it on a few different engines. I would suggest NOT doing it though, till you have done the rods and see what you get. The challenge of doing the mains is that the rod caps are cross bolted (there are both vertical and horizontal bolts holding the main caps in a truss) and you also have to deal with thrust bearings. There are a few tricks to rolling the old bearings out and rolling the new bearings in that we can explain if the time comes to doing it. I'll have to see if I can get an example set up and take pictures.
4) What is the oil pressure supposed to be at 500 RPMs?
This should be listed in the FSM here on the board. I'll see if I can find it if you can't locate it.
5) If oil pressure at 500 RPMs is less than 5, then oil light flicker is normal? and this now becomes an idle/throttle issue?
Yes. The engine will have trouble maintaining smooth idle below 400RPM anyway, as you have discovered.
i went to Firestone Complete Auto care to have a front end alignment done (Because they offer a lifetime alignment for $180) and they can't do one because the tie rods are "Ceased", so, i have all new inner and outer tie rods that i'm going to replace tomorrow, YAY! lol, Firestone wanted to charge me $600 + to change all tie rods! >.<
Replacing both inner and outer rods isn't a bad idea - have you found the how-to on changing the inner tie-rod bushings? I know you are changing the whole rod, but it is important you review the process for bushings because it describes removing ONLY ONE SIDE AT A TIME. It can be a little complicated to think about till you are doing it, but the idea is to never have more than one of the two bolts out of the center of the steering rack at one time. You will want a tie rod separator, or a pickle fork, or a large hammer to change the outer rod.
btw, the word you are looking for is "seized", and what they are telling you is what I was trying to explain on the phone - the inner and outer tie rods are threaded together, and they are stuck to each other so they can't be turned on the threads and adjusted. Replacing the inners and outers won't help unless the inners include the sleeve, like this:
or you get a new sleeve, like this, to go with your inner and outer sets:
6) it's probably been forever since this car has been aligned, and ceased tie rods, so the rotors are probably shot right?
Seized tie rods and alignment would have no bearing on rotor warpage, nor would a sway bar problem. The rotors will need replaced if they measure under spec, or are warped and too far out to turn. There are differing theories on how far you should grind a rotor with each pass, but if the rotor is under spec by the time the rotor is clean and true, you have to throw it away. Fortunately, our rotors are cheap and can be replaced pretty easy. I wouldn't worry about your rotors for now.
after the STEALERSHIP charged me $220.20 for Tow, oil pan installation, oil pan gasket, oil, and oil filter (which pissed me off cause i had JUST put a BRAND new Fram extra guard suregrip filter on) >.<, and i drove it off the lot, when i applied the brakes, the steering wheel, and frond end shimmied and shook really bad, it didn't do this before, and when i was changing the rod bearing, the Sway bar had been altered by the mechanic, before it wasn't in my way of dropping the oil pan, now it is, could this effect the bad shaking when applying the breaks? and will it harm anything by moving it back to where it was, and how do i do that?
Honestly, they did you a favor by removing that FRAM filter. The OE filter, or one by Purolator or Mobile will be better for you anyway, and your engine needs all the oil protection it can get. Go buy yourself a cheap oil filter wrench and upgrade filters.
The sway bar position isn't going to effect the front end shake and braking, etc... I don't know why it did that to you, but it hasn't done it since, I'd let it go for now.
As for the placement of your sway bar - I wouldn't change it from where the STEALERSHIP put it... one thing about a stealership that IS important, is that they know where a sway bar belongs. You might take some pictures of the sway bar placement on the frame from the outside (turn the front wheel hard to each side to get pictures) or from above or something and then ask on here for comparisons to where it belongs to confirm, but I'd bet it belongs where the dealer put it.
the sway bar MOUNTS may not have been changed, but because the suspension was drooping on jack stands (rather than ramps) it changed where the sway bar's resting position was.
Watch for sales at Harbor Freight... upgrade to a 3-ton jack (or one of that style, you'll see the difference when you compare them to the one you have)... Maybe return that set you have that has the bad creeper. Again, many guys don't use creepers because they take up too much room between you and the bottom of the car. I'm a big enough guy that it doesn't pay to use one.