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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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No Bus - 1999 2.7L

Hi all,

Last week my 1999 2.7L went into limp mode and the P700 came up, once I got the car home took to my mechanic who replaced both speed sensors (everything went back to normal - gears, speedo, tach rest of gauges)

Drove car since and all fine with everything and power etc......

Today I went to start up car and had no power and could not start first thought battery was dead so put on charge - kept dyeing, keep charging.....

Finally gave the car a boost and all came to life but now my odometer reads "No Bus" and I have nothing showing in any of the clusters?

Any thoughts as to what may be going on....

TIA
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 05:23 PM
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If it suddenly can't start on its own, I'm thinking your battery might be shot. It might not have enough power to fully run the pcm so your car went into kind of a limp-home mode. That's my best guess anyway. I'd put in a new battery and see if that fixes it.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 05:42 PM
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Hopefully Joe is right and it is just sloppy/low system voltage that is creating problems for the computers. All the various computers (PCM, TCM, ABS control module, Air bag sontrol module, ATC head, etc.) communicate over the PCI bus. Hopefully you can get it all working by replacing the battery. If not, somethings shorting out the single-wire PCI bus.

Besides battery, it could be poor power system connection, so check for corrosion and poor connections at the battery posts and at the two jump posts.

How old is the battery?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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The battery is 4 years old...

OK,so I just took car out after the boost

I had no gauges and kept the car running while out...

Soon as I returned home shut down car, turned over and all I get is click click and gauges all messed up? Still "NO BUS" showing.

Find it strange that the battery could cause all this instrument issues when I had battery on a full charge?

I'm not dismissing the replies - I appreciate all...

I will get load test done on battery

Any other thoughts please, want to be fully prepared for mechanic please...

TIA, again

Last edited by secondsgopast; 08-07-2011 at 06:19 PM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 06:24 PM
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You had no gauges because the gauges and odometer all get their information through the PCI bus. If you get clickclickclickclick when you turn the key to start, that means the starter isn't getting nearly enough power - either a bad connection or a dead battery.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks Joe..

As I said my first thought was battery as when I get no power and or the that starter click click to me it is battery what worries me is the "No Bus" showing in the odometer.

Perhaps when mechanic installed the two speed sensors he failed to hook bat up solid or bumped a wire..


Also I did notice the plastic panel covering the cluster was getting very hot which Im assuming because of the solid No Bus showing plus and the markers showing for PRND13

Last edited by secondsgopast; 08-07-2011 at 06:33 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 06:35 PM
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But the "No Bus" thing started happening when the battery died. It was working fine after the mechanic but before the battery died, right?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 06:44 PM
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Do you have a multimeter? If so, measure the battery voltage - with the engine off, and with it running (if it will run). Let us know the readings.

What is the amperage rating on your charger, and how many hours did you let it charge?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yes that is correct - all was fixed and the speed sensors corrected the fault light and the P700 error plus took it out of limp mode... Worked great for a solid week

Even went out yesterday and all fine started up fine numerous times and no issues this just happened today ---- Went outside to go out and nothing the car would not start and the instruments were also showing fine but after I boosted it and it fired up thats when the No Bus came on and the cluster died

Im afraid I do not have a volt meter with me, and I charged it on 10 amps for 3 hours or until the charger said it was charged. I did notice when I fired it up the volt meter on the charger dropped to 6 volts.

Tomorrow I will boost it and run it down to mechanic and get the load test done, then will report back the cause.

Im truly hoping it is just the battery and not a PCI issue

Thanks all

I will report back
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secondsgopast View Post
...I did notice when I fired it up the volt meter on the charger dropped to 6 volts...
That is either a *very* weak/sick battery or (if you didn't measure right on the battery posts) could be due to poor connection (such as heavy corrosion at battery connections, or loose terminal). You get much less than 10 volts when starting and you're done.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so it turned out to be the battery. No corrosion on posts or clamps just battery decided to just give up on me out of blue.

New battery installed with 700CCA and all back to normal again..

Thanks to all who replied and or reviewed my forum question.
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