Replacing inner tie rod bushings - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing inner tie rod bushings

I will be replacing the inner tie rod bushings later this week.From the how to and the discussions it seems some have been able to do this on the 3.2/3.5's by turning the wheels to the left and removing the associated throttle body intake plastic pieces.Anyone care to provide more advice or helpful hints on this? I purchased a new set of tires this past Sat. and the shop showed me the play on the drivers side.However they wanted to replace the inner tie rod itself ($105 for the part),Labor($75),and then the alignment($49.99).I knew better and will only be going back for the alignment.I've trusted this shop until now but am having second thoughts after they told me the inner tie rod would be a Moog purchased from a local Advance Auto.I looked up the part myself after I got home and it shows $69.99.May have to start looking for a new tire store.

Last edited by MarkTN; 12-13-2011 at 12:43 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 12:23 PM
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When I first got my car I got new tires and brakes put on and went to the place I had taken all my other vehicles. They told me I needed a new inner tie rod and with as old as the car is, I should replace them both and my estimate was a little over $400. I took it to another mechanic and just said it was just the inner tie rod end bushings. He charged me $60 total to replace them and it solved the problem! I have no idea how to change it though, good luck Mark!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 02:41 PM
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If you haven't bought the bushings yet get polyurethane ones because they last quite a bit longer than the rubber models that come with the car. You do have to take off most of the plastic pieces. I replaced both of my inner tie rod bushings a while ago and I wish I could remember more helpful jazz but it escapes me. Here's a link to the 2000 parts catalog.
-> ( dodgeintrepid.net/images/manuals/97-01/00LH.pdf )

edit: Also, don't forget to disconnect the negative end of the battery aye. In case you didn't find this how to here is this one, it's pretty in depth and, even though it's not for the same model as yours, I did the same thing on my 98 so there shouldn't be too many differences. ( Step by Step Inner Tie Rod Bushing for 300M / Special )

edit2: found the link to where I got this image(another how to)-> (http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/134-brakes-suspension/211035-how-replace-inner-tie-rod-bushing.html#post1861497)



pg 220 of 2000 parts manual

Last edited by FARspark; 12-13-2011 at 02:54 PM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 03:11 PM
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just get the replacement bushings,, dont get the whole tie rod,, simple to do, as you said turn your wheel to the left,, remove air cleaner box, and related hoses,, and you will see them, NOW,, pay attention,, loosen both bolts,, but ONLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME, DO NOT REMOVE BOTH BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME, or you will be there for a while, and dont forget the washer that goes between the rack and the tie rod, Moog makes the replacement bushings,, around 20 bucks,, Ive done 999.569.235 of them
lets just say ive done a lot

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all,I do plan on doing just the bushings.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDodge View Post
just get the replacement bushings,, dont get the whole tie rod,, simple to do, as you said turn your wheel to the left,, remove air cleaner box, and related hoses,, and you will see them, NOW,, pay attention,, loosen both bolts,, but ONLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME, DO NOT REMOVE BOTH BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME, or you will be there for a while, and dont forget the washer that goes between the rack and the tie rod, Moog makes the replacement bushings,, around 20 bucks,, Ive done 999.569.235 of them
lets just say ive done a lot
Ding-Ding: that's so easy to over look during re-install. Do as said above - job will go smoothly.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 09:38 PM
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 06:06 AM
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I have two suggestions:
  1. For bonus points. Add an additional sheet metal washer as a drip edge in case your rack leaks slightly. It will protect your tie rod bushings.
  2. Most important! Make sure that the rubber rack bellows are NOT bound up as you tighten the tie rod bolts. If they get in the way, you will notice that it takes forever to torque them up. The sheet metal washers help in this respect.
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