Oil drain plug/oil pan, 2000 Dodge Intrepid ES w/3.2L engine - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Oil drain plug/oil pan, 2000 Dodge Intrepid ES w/3.2L engine

To make the story short, the service advisor showed me the drain plug (steel) which has some of the aluminum thread materials that came from the oil pan (aluminum). Apparently, the Jiffy Lube mechanic from the last oil change overtorqued the plug and stripped the hole thread. The hole now has about 3 good thread to hold the plug and judging the condition, they may be bad too. I'll be lucky if the plug would stay where it is until I am ready to "fix" the problem this week.

I have the option to replace the oil pan, or oversizing the drain hole and use an oversize plug. I'm not sure how complicated it would be for a new oil pan, but a replacement pan would run $150. Labor cost not accounted for yet. I guess the cost to repair the drain hole with an oversize plug would be the most economical thing to do.

Would you recommend going for an oversize drain plug/hole? Is there anything special about a spec plug on the Intrepid which an oversize may not be compatible with? Your input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 01:07 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.


 
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Oversize drain plugs have been used successfully in our cars - but long term I would consider a new pan if the funds allow.

AdvanceAuto sells them - a Dorman product, IIRC.
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks.

I spoke to Wal Mart service advisor and he said Wal Mart won't service the vehicle if they find the oversize drain plug. :(. They prolly won't want to be responsible for damaging the hole further or oil leaking.
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:17 PM
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Then don't go to Walmart for service.

Yea, Walmart is too big to risk doing ANY damage to a customer's car. Oddly, they will have to finish servicing the car when the pull the drain plug. Walmart will not service the car with the pan the way it is either, and walmart will also not service a car when the drain plug won't unscrew by hand once broken free by a wrench.
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Guess I better change the oil myself and save the Wal Mart and Jiffy Lube grieves . And save money too.
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 04:37 PM
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And save Jiffy Lube from breaking your car worse in the end anyway. When you do it yourself, you KNOW it was done right.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 04:49 PM
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can you bring it back to Jiffy and have them buy the new pan?
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 05:56 PM
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My comments on using oversize plugs:

1. Not the purist's way to do it, but it's the easiest and quickest fix.

2. Remove the washer, and put axle grease on the threads of the OS plug (you want to get an M14-1.5 OS plug) before you use it to cut the new threads. Removing the washer allows you to screw the plug in and cut the new threads beyond the point of compressing the washer and sealing. That way, after you're done cutting the threads and re-install the plug with a washer, you *know* that when it tightens, it's because it's compressing the washer and not because the threads got tight when it hit the unthreaded area of the hole. The grease will capture any chips of aluminum form the newly cut threads. After cutting the threads, remove the plug and *thoroughly* clean the grease and *ALL* chips from the threads and cuts in the plug. Also - take a brand new can of brake parts cleaner with the red straw, stick the straw into the drain hole at least a couple of inches, and spray brake parts cleaner into the pan full blast, pause every once in a while to let it come streaming out of the drain hole - that's to hopefully wash out any chips that might have escaped. Use the entire can.

3. Throw away the washer that came with the plug and go to Lowes and buy a common garden hose washer (perfect size) and use it instead. Why? Because (a) the OS plug will probably not thread in perfectly straight (trust me on that - if it goes in straight, it is pure luck) and will not seal when it tries to seat to the pan because (b) the company that makes the plug is stupid and supplies a hard washer with the plug, so it can't seal if the new threads (and therefore the plug) are tilted at all - and oil will continually drip. The garden hose washer is much softer and will squish a little to seal perfectly, even with a slightly tilted plug.

4. Only tighten the plug enough to seal it because the newly formed threads are nowhere near complete - they are much weaker than the original factory threads that already stripped. (If you use the hard washer supplied with the OS plug and the plug is tilted at all and you try to seal it by tightening it more, you will strip the new threads before the plug seals - guaranteed.)

5. Think long and hard before letting anyone change the oil once you install the OS plug (because the threads are even weaker than the original factory threads).

Have a nice day.


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Last edited by peva; 01-03-2012 at 05:58 PM.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 06:03 PM
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Wow Bill... Heck of a way to make a guy feel comfortable about using the easy way out! hHAhahaha

Have a nice day.
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 06:52 PM
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Funny, I checked this out to see what could be done, and this was an ad here:
http://www.qwikvalve.com/?gclid=CJGx...FcYZQgodnTwxmw

Kind of fitting, now if they have oversized...
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmccul View Post
Wow Bill... Heck of a way to make a guy feel comfortable about using the easy way out! hHAhahaha...
Yes - I'm a funny guy!
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 06:34 AM
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I'm using a Dorman 65200 rubber plug. The rubber and small "carriage bolt" are inserted in the oil pan and when the thumbnut is tighten it expands the rubber against the inside of the stripped hole. My first one lasted about two years before it started leaking.

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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
My comments on using oversize plugs:

1. Not the purist's way to do it, but it's the easiest and quickest fix.

2. Remove the washer, and put axle grease on the threads of the OS plug (you want to get an M14-1.5 OS plug) before you use it to cut the new threads. Removing the washer allows you to screw the plug in and cut the new threads beyond the point of compressing the washer and sealing. That way, after you're done cutting the threads and re-install the plug with a washer, you *know* that when it tightens, it's because it's compressing the washer and not because the threads got tight when it hit the unthreaded area of the hole. The grease will capture any chips of aluminum form the newly cut threads. After cutting the threads, remove the plug and *thoroughly* clean the grease and *ALL* chips from the threads and cuts in the plug. Also - take a brand new can of brake parts cleaner with the red straw, stick the straw into the drain hole at least a couple of inches, and spray brake parts cleaner into the pan full blast, pause every once in a while to let it come streaming out of the drain hole - that's to hopefully wash out any chips that might have escaped. Use the entire can.

3. Throw away the washer that came with the plug and go to Lowes and buy a common garden hose washer (perfect size) and use it instead. Why? Because (a) the OS plug will probably not thread in perfectly straight (trust me on that - if it goes in straight, it is pure luck) and will not seal when it tries to seat to the pan because (b) the company that makes the plug is stupid and supplies a hard washer with the plug, so it can't seal if the new threads (and therefore the plug) are tilted at all - and oil will continually drip. The garden hose washer is much softer and will squish a little to seal perfectly, even with a slightly tilted plug.

4. Only tighten the plug enough to seal it because the newly formed threads are nowhere near complete - they are much weaker than the original factory threads that already stripped. (If you use the hard washer supplied with the OS plug and the plug is tilted at all and you try to seal it by tightening it more, you will strip the new threads before the plug seals - guaranteed.)

5. Think long and hard before letting anyone change the oil once you install the OS plug (because the threads are even weaker than the original factory threads).

Have a nice day.
I just removed a toggle style drain plug from my wifes car because the rubber seal had all deteriorated. The only way I could was to break it off and that left the inner part still in the oil pan. With these engines having a windage tray , do you think it will just sit in the
bottom of the pan with no problems ?
I know the correct way is to pull the pan but If I do that then I'm going to do bearings also.
A job I really don't want to get into at this time.
I used an oversize drain plug with a nylon gasket and it sealed fine.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncfrc View Post
I just removed a toggle style drain plug from my wifes car because the rubber seal had all deteriorated. The only way I could was to break it off and that left the inner part still in the oil pan. With these engines having a windage tray , do you think it will just sit in the
bottom of the pan with no problems ?
I don't see any problems with that.

Quote:
I know the correct way is to pull the pan but If I do that then I'm going to do bearings also.
A job I really don't want to get into at this time.
I used an oversize drain plug with a nylon gasket and it sealed fine.
Yeah - pulling the pan is a big job to fix a non-problem - unless you were removing it to replace or helicoil it.

Last edited by peva; 04-20-2013 at 09:42 AM.
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 04:47 PM
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I found a drain plug at Auto Zone the other day which is the way all
drain plugs should be made. It's a 14-1.50 plug that all our cars use.
It has an extra large flange that has a recessed area that holds a
nice sturdy o-ring. The threads are just a little bit longer and you only
have to tighten it to snug as the o-ring does all the sealing.
Very Nice

Part # 653116 Premium , made in China

Check this out: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...7263_339488_0_ (sent by Yahoo! Toolbar)

Last edited by ncfrc; 09-01-2013 at 04:51 PM. Reason: --------------------------------------------------------
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