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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Mystery No Start

I've had a problem with my 1998 2.7 since last Friday now. Car was overheating and spraying coolant all over, discovered that was the water outlet. It's since been replaced. Still had some overheating problems, that was not enough coolant and air in the lines. Got out to it Friday to try and start it, would crank and crank but not turn over. Ended up replacing the battery because it was dropping down to almost 5 volts when you tried to turn it over. Still no start. Checked out the relays, replaced the Auto Shutdown Relay and the two cooling fan relays. I was getting 2 codes, 1489 and 1490 - High and Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Circuit Malfunctions. Tried clearing the codes after replacing the relays, still no start. Found a thread on here for someone with a similar sounding problem, turned out to be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I replaced that, still no start. The only thing I've discovered is that the passenger side cooling fan blade is slipping off the motor and not turning. The motor feels a bit weak, but it may be sticky from the coolant spray. Would that cause a no start? I'm at a loss and now out three days work, still looking around for a decent back up to no avail. Help please?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:01 PM
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If you can read schematics and use a multimeter to troubleshoot, you can definitely rule certain things out, and you might be able to find the cause of the problem.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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I sure as heck can't, but my father in law can read schematics. Not sure if we have a multimeter. What would we check first if we do?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:06 PM
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I sure as heck can't, but my father in law can read schematics. Not sure if we have a multimeter. What would we check first if we do?
A blown fuse?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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I've looked at every pertinent fuse to what I thought was the problem. I'll take a look at all of the rest, though. Everything looked okay. Just been a major headache for the last week or so, and I have no backup, so I'm out three days of work so far. Darn those early morning shifts!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:29 PM
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And how did you "Look" at them? A visual inspection or testing them with a multimeter or similar?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Visual inspection and checking voltages on pertinent fuses, checked voltage to relays, and to fans. Voltage is going to injectors, coils, and fans. We ran wire between the two areas on the relays that switch on, and power went to both fans. Driver's side fan ran great, passenger side, motor was turning, but the fan blade was off, so no spin.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:38 PM
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Checking a fuse doesn't involve voltage. It involves continuity as in resistance. So how many ohms did those "good" fuses read?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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They were reading good. We used the tone mode on the voltimeter, and when I looked, none were above 0.1 on the readings. The only other thing I can think is if the auto rollover relay got tripped. I seem to remember having this problem when I replaced my fuel pump, but I don't remember where it was to fix it. I tried unplugging and replugging the electrical connection to the fuel pump that sits under the back seat. All we can think is that the fuel is somehow not getting to the engine.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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You'll have to forgive me. I'm not an electrician, or an expert on anything having to do with this car. I've owned it six years, and it only started to really give me trouble in the last year or so consistently.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 11:34 PM
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Fuel pump issues?

Have you tried spraying starting fluid in the intake while cranking it over?
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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That's the next step. I'll keep y'all updated.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 08:24 AM
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...The only other thing I can think is if the auto rollover relay got tripped. I seem to remember having this problem when I replaced my fuel pump, but I don't remember where it was to fix it...
AFAIK, the ASD relay responds to real-time conditions - i.e., it doesn't latch into a tripped mode, and doesn't need resetting - the condition that is causing it to drop out merely needs to go way for things to work again (unless it or something controlling it is malfunctioning). If someone knows I'm wrong on this, please correct me.

EDIT: I just searched and read some things in the FSM. Apparently there is no "rollover" relay or anything specifically to shut the engine off in a rollover. There is a rollover *valve* in the fuel tank, but all that does is shut off the vent hoses in the fuel system to prevent a spill.

ROLLOVER VALVES

DESCRIPTION
All vehicles have rollover valve(s) on top of the fuel tank.

OPERATION
The valves prevent fuel flow through the fuel tank vent valve hoses should the vehicle rollover.

The rollover valves on the fuel tank are not serviceable.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 04-18-2012 at 08:43 AM.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-20-2012, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Due to unforeseen circumstances, including rain, sickness, and scheduling issues, I haven't yet been able to check if the car will start with starter fluid. Where would I spray it in order to check, and if it does start with starter fluid, would air in the fuel lines be a possible cause? I almost ran out of gas shortly before the problem arose, so could air have gotten in there? If so, what's the best course for bleeding the air out and getting fuel to the engine?
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