03 Intrepid rattling in the motor - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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03 Intrepid rattling in the motor

Got some rattling in my engine and wonder if you can provide any insight. I took a video.

Thanks!

Craig


Last edited by craigibc; 07-18-2012 at 01:02 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe a timing chain?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 03:08 PM
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Sounds more like the valve-train. Like a broken lifter or a rocker arm popped off. I'd start at the easiest spot first. Valve covers come off and go back on easy.

Use a pipe around 1 1/2 to 2" and point it around different areas of the engine. Listen with your ear to pin point exactly where the noise is coming from.

I definitely wouldn't drive it like that.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 04:15 PM
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Yeah, that does not sound good at all.
I hope that it turns out to be something easy to repair.
Don't drive it like that.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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It is a very strange noise that comes and goes so I do not think it is a valvetrain issue. I had it towed home and put in the garage and will begin the tear down in the morning. I will check the valvetrain for sure to see if the issue is there. I think I will know more when I get inside. I will update you tomorrow.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 10:46 PM
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Before my engine completely failed, it made a noise very similar to what I hear in the video. The sound would come and go randomly. In fact the night before the engine finally failed, it sounded perfect, but then the very next day the sound was worse than ever and did not go away.
The problem was caused by bearing failure. One of the bearings between the crankshaft and connecting rods would spin in place and block off the flow of oil to that point, causing the noise, then it would spin again and allow oil to flow properly.
Each time it did that it caused more damage.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I removed the valve covers and of course intake and I am looking at motor and visually everything looks ok. The timing chain and all guides look good so I think I have ruled that out as a problem for now. Not sure how to diagnose the issue mentioned above beside just replacing the bearings and see if that makes the issue go away.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 05:02 PM
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Mine was fixed by getting the engine replaced.
Upgrade yours to a 3.5.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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What is the best source to find a 3.5 these days? I thought about hitting junkyards but that is alot of work to get a potential junk motor.

Craig
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 08:56 PM
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Junk yards generally have an idea which motors run well, that's where my motor came from.
Also Craigs list might have something.
The engine I got purrs like new.
Cars that have been rear ended or hit anywhere else near the rear of the vehicle, are generally good choices for engines.

Look at the plugs and the overall care given to the car before the accident.

Last edited by BiliTheAxe; 07-19-2012 at 09:04 PM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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It is a rod bearing issue. I tore the engine down yesterday.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigibc View Post
It is a rod bearing issue. I tore the engine down yesterday.
Sorry for the bad news!

I'm curious though, have you recently replaced the water pump? If so, did it dump coolant into the motor oil? I've seen at least three cases recently where the oil was milkshaked from the water pump. then had major bearing failure right after that. Even though the oil was replaced in a timely manner and the pump was replaced too.

I'm starting to make the recommendation that engine bearings be replaced if the water pump causes any milkshake.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 12:24 AM
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Sorry to hear that.
Don't just try to throw in a couple of new bearings in it. From everything I read about it when my car had the same problem, it will not last very long.
The surfaces where the bearings go will need to be machined to make the new bearings last.
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