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post #31 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Alright well I forgot to get some dielectric grease but right now it still does the funky shakey idle. If its still there after i put on the grease where should I go next? EGR? Do I have to clear the codes for the engine to run fine (apparently some cars will still run funky even though you fixed the problem but didnt clear the codes, just not sure if this includes my car)?
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post #32 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Also started doing some more in depth research and there were a few things that popped up that peaked my interest....
In this thread (Getting sick of this...P0300) posts number nine, eleven, twenty, twenty-one. Post #9 being the bolded section in the quotes, #11 for the oil filled intake reference (my old PCV was rather wet and so was the tube behind it, #20 for the MAP sensor PCM reference (still have the 2.7 PCM but it should not cause a problem), and #21 for the Lucas fuel injector cleaner reference.

I figured I would probably pull off the intake and check to see if there is and how much oil is in it. Also thinking maybe I should pit some lucas in the tank just because it is rather inexpensive but I'm not a big fan of putting adatives in my tank.

This whole fiasco is a big pain in my side because I really need something fuel efficient to drive to and from work (making 7.50 an hour at Bk and working five days a week which is stressful enough as it is) but having issues with this car and then having to shell out more money each week to put gas in my 350 Camaro which is only getting 6 mpg because of a big exhaust leak is not helping. I also drive my little brother to and from school everyday.

I guess tomorrow I will work on pulling the plenum off (I have seen a thread in the past that had something about making a catch can for the oil that came out the plenum, does anyone have the link for that) and then finding a different job (hopefully in automotive (: ).

So any advice on the different plans I have to try for the car?
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post #33 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by stlrj View Post
I've been helping my neighbor with the same random misfire on his 04 300M. Googled "Chrysler random misfire" and it pointed to a bad "auto shutdown relay", crank position sensor, cam position sensor.

Replacing the plugs did nothing. We replaced the ASD relay two days ago and so far so good. If that fails, we'll move on to the crank position sensor, then cam position sensor.


Update.

It has been over a week now and the check engine light has not come on. Looks like the ASD relay solved the "random misfire" code.

The best part of the "fix" is that it didn't cost anything since all we did was swap out the radiator fan relay for the ASD relay. The plugs that he replaced was his idea and was against my recommendation.


Cheers,

Joe
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post #34 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Update.

It has been over a week now and the check engine light has not come on. Looks like the ASD relay solved the "random misfire" code.

The best part of the "fix" is that it didn't cost anything since all we did was swap out the radiator fan relay for the ASD relay. The plugs that he replaced was his idea and was against my recommendation.


Cheers,

Joe
Congrats....too bad the same didnt fix my car.
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post #35 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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So I pulled the plenum and got a little bit of oil to come out and so I bolted it all back up and started it and it still had the misfire. So today I went ahead and bought some lucas so we shall see how that works out....
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post #36 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Have been running Lucas maybe 40 miles and no difference yet. I was thinking about running seafoam through this baby. Anyone got a how to on which vacuum line to use and how to let the engine "drink" it up? I was just thinking about running it through the vac lines unless someone else thinks I should put it in other places too....
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post #37 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 07:05 AM
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Use the small plastic elbow on top of the plenum just in front of the throttle body. Don't let it go in too fast or you can hydrolock the engine (cylinders with too much uncompressible liquid) - can cause serious damage.
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post #38 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Just let that suck it out of a cup then but in little bursts? Should I have someone keep the revs up at like 1.5-2k just so it does not stall out? Also I never asked but what is the normal compression these cars should have per cylinder?
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post #39 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 12:15 PM
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You do eventually want to let it stall out and then let it sit for several minutes - that's to give it wet exposure for a few minutes to dissolve stuff. Then start it up and run it until it clears up.

Best to time this with an oil change because stuff will release and find its way into the crankcase during the cleanout. Also should replace spark plugs afterwards too because they can get fouled - but you could just wait on that and see if they do.

Last edited by peva; 10-03-2012 at 12:21 PM.
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post #40 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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You do eventually want to let it stall out and then let it sit for several minutes - that's to give it wet exposure for a few minutes to dissolve stuff. Then start it up and run it until it clears up.

Best to time this with an oil change because stuff will release and find its way into the crankcase during the cleanout. Also should replace spark plugs afterwards too because they can get fouled - but you could just wait on that and see if they do.
I Know that you need to shut it down for about five minutes or so but I thought that letting it stall on its own is not the best but to instead shut it off after you finish feeding it.

I am getting close enough to an oil change as it is and I still have the box with my old plugs in it so I can just throw those back in during the process....anything else peva?
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post #41 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 07:01 PM
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I Know that you need to shut it down for about five minutes or so but I thought that letting it stall on its own is not the best but to instead shut it off after you finish feeding it.
I think it will end up more wet/saturated, and therefore will get more cleaning accomplished while it sits, if you idle it down and let it stall out. But either way will work.

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I am getting close enough to an oil change as it is and I still have the box with my old plugs in it so I can just throw those back in during the process....anything else peva?
No- that's pretty much it. Good idea about putting old plugs back in for the updated version of the Italian tuneup.

Last edited by peva; 10-03-2012 at 07:08 PM.
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post #42 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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No- that's pretty much it. Good idea about putting old plugs back in for the updated version of the Italian tuneup.
.....?
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post #43 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 07:27 AM
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post #44 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Oh got it! Pretty cool info there!
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post #45 of 59 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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So I havent seafoamed it yet but it recently started making some weird noises. Like the engine seems like it is louder and when I had first started it it would occasionally have a noise like two gumballs hitting together. Not sure if something came loose in the engine or what. Also when I did the compression test the driver side bank had a 180 and the passenger side had a 160.

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Last edited by '87IROCZOWNER69; 10-12-2012 at 03:06 PM.
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